New 5c Collet Chuck and Collets! :)

[Ray C]

Very nice indexer Bill! Yes, another PM sourced item. They work well but can be classified as a "Herniator" - spelled heavy.

The little 5C collet blocks will be your go to often vs. the BS-1. But The BS-1 is invaluable when needed.

I heard the original BS-1 units shipped with a one-size-fits-all truss.

 

[wrmiller]

I heard the original BS-1 units shipped with a one-size-fits-all truss.

Yea, this thing gives new meaning to the term 'heavy iron'. It weighs about the same (probably a bit more TBH) as my large lathe chuck. If I have to move/use both in the same day I will have gotten all the exercise I need for that day, that's for sure.

 

[mksj]

My rotary table with chuck and mounting plate comes in at around 130lbs, not a lot of fun getting it up on the mill table. My collet blocks get a lot more use for quick stuff. One of these days I would like to get a 5C indexer for the mill.

A few comments on using a 5C chuck or 5C blocks with a stop system. There are stops that screw into the back of the 5C collet which are handy, but since a 5C is pulled into the chuck when tightening, the stock's absolute positioned can changed slightly as the collet is tightened (depends on the chuck or collet lock system). So on the lathe, if I need to do a lot of repeat work or multiple pieces that need to be in the same exact position relative to the spindle every time, then I use a through the spindle stop system. When using the collet blocks, for repeat pieces (in/out) I always use a stop against the piece I am machining and not the collet block. If just machining one piece and it is not being taken out of the collet, then fine to index off of the collet block. So for cutting a hex or square, I just index the collet block against a stop to cut each flat.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...e-chuck-stop-for-pm-1340gt.63292/#post-523145

 

[wrmiller]

Ha! My 'little' 6" rotary never got upgraded to a 8" (it was on the 'list' but I ran out of job/money), so I will likely appreciate that in the future.

I saw somewhere, a flanged 5c holder that might attach to my rotary table as a means to use 5c collets on it though. I'll have to go search ebay.

 

[Alan H.]

My rotary table with chuck and mounting plate comes in at around 130lbs, not a lot of fun getting it up on the mill table. My collet blocks get a lot more use for quick stuff. One of these days I would like to get a 5C indexer for the mill.

A few comments on using a 5C chuck or 5C blocks with a stop system. There are stops that screw into the back of the 5C collet which are handy, but since a 5C is pulled into the chuck when tightening, the stock's absolute positioned can changed slightly as the collet is tightened (depends on the chuck or collet lock system). So on the lathe, if I need to do a lot of repeat work or multiple pieces that need to be in the same exact position relative to the spindle every time, then I use a through the spindle stop system. When using the collet blocks, for repeat pieces (in/out) I always use a stop against the piece I am machining and not the collet block. If just machining one piece and it is not being taken out of the collet, then fine to index off of the collet block. So for cutting a hex or square, I just index the collet block against a stop to cut each flat.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...e-chuck-stop-for-pm-1340gt.63292/#post-523145

Thanks for the reminder Mark. I remember your build on the stop and had intentions to build one but it is still on the list.

 

[pacifica]

My rotary table with chuck and mounting plate comes in at around 130lbs, not a lot of fun getting it up on the mill table. My collet blocks get a lot more use for quick stuff. One of these days I would like to get a 5C indexer for the mill.

A few comments on using a 5C chuck or 5C blocks with a stop system. There are stops that screw into the back of the 5C collet which are handy, but since a 5C is pulled into the chuck when tightening, the stock's absolute positioned can changed slightly as the collet is tightened (depends on the chuck or collet lock system). So on the lathe, if I need to do a lot of repeat work or multiple pieces that need to be in the same exact position relative to the spindle every time, then I use a through the spindle stop system. When using the collet blocks, for repeat pieces (in/out) I always use a stop against the piece I am machining and not the collet block. If just machining one piece and it is not being taken out of the collet, then fine to index off of the collet block. So for cutting a hex or square, I just index the collet block against a stop to cut each flat.

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/thr...e-chuck-stop-for-pm-1340gt.63292/#post-523145

I use my yuasa 5c indexer a lot on the mill, it is very light but holds well and I put in the Kurt vise and it easily holds .0005.
Tend to not use 8" rotary table with the 4 jaw chuck due to weight.
I use ellis dividing head w. 4 jaw chuck more, it is lighter and tilts.

 

[9t8z28]

Can you be more specific on how you cleaned up the collets ? I bought a cheap set off of eBay and it sounds like I had the same issue with sharp edges. Even the inside of the collets has sharp edges and would lightly scratch the part. I deburred them all with a small file but have noticed that the collets are marking up the inside of the 5C collet chuck nose where the tip of the collet sits. The threads on the collets are pretty rough but work surprisingly well.
They are really good collets for the price and run true enough for the work I do.

He said these were for 'services rendered' as I have been helping him out a bit. Not sure I did enough to warrant these, but I'll take 'em.

The PM collet set appears to be pretty darn accurate. When I unpacked each collet, I did a quick debur on a hard 3M wheel, and then did a light pass over the threads on a scotchbright (the maroon one) wheel. They cleaned up real nice.

e did you use the hard 3M wheel

He said these were for 'services rendered' as I have been helping him out a bit. Not sure I did enough to warrant these, but I'll take 'em.

The PM collet set appears to be pretty darn accurate. When I unpacked each collet, I did a quick debur on a hard 3M wheel, and then did a light pass over the threads on a scotchbright (the maroon one) wheel. They cleaned up real nice.

 

[wrmiller]

I didn't have any 'issues' with the collets per se, but I do like to use my 3M wheel to debur and make things work a bit smoother.

I cleaned up the end of the threads for smoother engagement, and did a light corner break on the outside edge of the OD taper on the other end. I have a maroon scotch bright wheel that I used lightly on the collet's threads just to debur them.

 

[9t8z28]

Ok thanks. I think your referring to the quick lock 2” or 3” scotch brite and platic backed abrasive disks that mount on a die grinder. If that’s the case I have them and I will give that a try to clean them up a bit further. This is my first 5C collet set and I didnt want to do anything to them that I couldnt reverse. I did purchase 40 used Hardinge and Royal 5C collets that are sized in between the 17 piece fractional collets from China. I will look at the better less used USA made collets and see how they are deburred. I can tell you without looking at the USA made collets that they are not sharp like the China collets! Much safer to handle!

I didn't have any 'issues' with the collets per se, but I do like to use my 3M wheel to debur and make things work a bit smoother.

I cleaned up the end of the threads for smoother engagement, and did a light corner break on the outside edge of the OD taper on the other end. I have a maroon scotch bright wheel that I used lightly on the collet's threads just to debur them.

 

[wrmiller]

Actually, I use a 6" 3M wheel and a 6" scotchbrite wheel (for golf club heads) on a Craftsman variable speed grinder.

I build/rebuild golf clubs too. What can I say, I'm a tinkerer.