My own Grizzly DF-1237G setup/restoration thread

[RJSakowski]

The registration surfaces for the cross slide are the front vee and the flat on the rear way. The rear vee and the flat on the front way are the registration surfaces for the tailstock. The assumption that all surfaces are true with each other is just that; an assumption. The most accurate would be to use the top of the cross slide, as Richard suggests, as it rides on the registration surfaces used in turning.

 

[Dabbler]

I 100% agree with Mr Sakowski and Mr King. That notwithstanding, we are talking about making the readings the same - not to accurately level the bed. The OP has a bed that is untwisted even if it is not level - and it need not be.

Yes it is far easier to use the carriage, AND that lathe has a ground cross slide which would make it very easy and correct to use it for leveling. Some lathes I've used, the cross slide top is not flat or straight and the base isn't stable. Then using [123 blocks or vee blocks and a parallel] or Richard's fine alignment jig is essential.

There are many ways to skin every cat - and it is important to let this OP who is newer to the trade, that his job was done well.

 

[TonyBen]

One other thing is to tap on the leveling pads with some leaded cold roll bar stock, to seat them on the floor. I hope I'm not coming off as a know it all here...but I have been leveling and aligning machines for 50 years and want to share before I croak. This is a bigger machine, but the principals are the same.
http://vintagemachinery.org/pubs/2104/3558.pdf

You all know more than me. I never discount any bit of knowledge that is shared. Thank you for sharing that.

I have made a name for myself by listening to silver-haired folks that were long in the tooth in a niche market and documenting what they knew while they could about my favorite rifle. Most of these individuals were not computer or video savvy. There was no single source on the internet for their knowledge, so I decided to make one, sharing what knowledge I collected from them. Somehow, I became the guru for that rifle platform and my "How-To" videos have become essential viewing for anyone just coming into that specific platform and I cover basic and advanced gunsmithing and accuritizing of that platform. Everything I post though, does not include any machining but rather all hand-fitting since, until now, I had no machining equipment or experience.

My YouTube page (tonyben3) happened completely by accident and wouldn't have happened if other experienced people kept their tricks to themselves.

I value every tip and trick anyone can share. Thank you all!

Tony.

 

[BROCKWOOD]

Looks like fun! Grizzly's can be frustrating, but also very satisfactory once lined out for your purposes!

 

[TonyBen]

Well, I don't have a round bar that is as big as the quill of the tailstock, but I do have a rectangular block of aluminum that is larger in its smallest width than the quill is wide. I chucked the rectangular block in the chuck and started to use the feed control to make the cut with my carbide cutter. I don't know what happened but when I reached for the clutch to disengage the feed, it either jammed, or I pushed it the wrong way, or I grabbed the wrong lever, or something, but it didn't disengage. I hit the chuck and sparks flew. I was using the slowest feed possible. Luckily, since its a belt drive and the belt is somewhat loose, the motor spun but the belt slipped which stopped the gears from turning.

The carbide cutter broke and the chuck stopped. I cut power somehow managed to break everything loose. I thought for sure I buggered up some gears or something. Looks like the worst I did was break the cutter. Luckily for me, I had just bought some new carbide bits (the kind you can replace the tips) and I put in a new bit.

This time, I rehearsed engaging and disengaging the clutch. A new habit for me; when running the feed, never take your hand off the clutch. I continued cutting and am about half way to making a round bar out of a rectangular bar. Just for safety's sake, I would disengage the clutch a couple of times throughout the pass to make sure it wasn't going to jam on me before I got any closer to the chuck.

OOPS!

I'll finish turning the block tonight. That was just how I spent my lunch hour today. My heart rate is settled down a bit now. And yes, I was wearing safety glasses.

Tony.

 

[BROCKWOOD]

Didn't have mine long before I broke the cross slide. I confused the direction at the end of travel & engaged auto feed in the wrong direction. Major OOPS. You're doing good by exercising caution!

 

[Dabbler]

For a small cut like that I have always hand fed my cuts. I very seldom use the feeds on my 12X37. Not only for those 'oops' moments. You can really feel your cut when you hand feed, and in some cases do more accurate work.

--You only need to take .250 in Z or so to make the dimension the same as the tailstock. BTW for interest's sake what is your measurement? U using a mic or a vernier?

 

[TonyBen]

For a small cut like that I have always hand fed my cuts. I very seldom use the feeds on my 12X37. Not only for those 'oops' moments. You can really feel your cut when you hand feed, and in some cases do more accurate work.

--You only need to take .250 in Z or so to make the dimension the same as the tailstock. BTW for interest's sake what is your measurement? U using a mic or a vernier?

Here's what I' was cutting.

Here's the broken cutter.

I used the auto feed to get a better cut but after switching to a different bit, and changing the cut angle, I see that wasn't necessary. I think I had the cutter angle all wrong for what I was doing so as I was hand cranking, it was cutting finer lines, if that makes sense. I switched to auto feed to get a more consistent cut.

It wasn't until after I installed a triangle carbide cutter and put the cutter at a different angle that I now see that I could have hand fed with good results.

Tony.

 

[Dabbler]

Your lathe is quite robust, and I'd expect that you have leaned a thing or 2, but I'm fairly confident it was without detectable damage to your lathe. Particularly your headstock has oversized bearings and is quite rigid for it's weight class.

I have no particular aversion to auto feed, I just like to feel the work.

--If you use cutters with a larger radius you won't have lines. It takes a little practice to hand feed evenly, and get an accurate result. In a few cases auto feed gives deceptive results: the 'lines' are so regular that the eye sees them as texture on the surface, but there are furrows if viewed under magnification. Think of using a radius at least 4-6 times the feed rate: so if you advance .010 per revolution, a radius of .060 is appropriate, for instance. [These are just rules of thumb I use; anyone feel free to correct me on this]

[edit] I almost forgot: I hand feed quite quickly, leaving obvious furrows at first. only on my final pass or 2 do I slowly feed. This is also true for auto feed...

[edit 2] You have that piece put waaaay out there. I'd never go that far out even on the 15" LeBlond I use unless it is supported by the tailstock. It looks like the piece is almost 12" long! Just looking at your photo gives me a pucker in the wrong place.

To longest piece I'd use for this test would extend about 1" past the jaws, and I'd cut about .300 off it to the desired dimension.

 

[TonyBen]

I eventually did have a revelation and drilled a hole for the tailstock. I don't have a live center but I just eased a dead center in there for the sake of supporting the part.

I'll hack off a 1" section and chuck it up in the lathe. The tailstock is 1.575". I only have a 1" micrometer so I'll have to use a verneer scale. Time for bed.

Tony.