My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[WhyW8]

Having reverse might be handy when you are using collets in your spindle attachment..

 

[Jimsehr]

Put it on there and see if it becomes obvious.

Okay... details on the mystery piece...

Dimensions: 1-5/8"x4-3/8"x12-1/8"
Setup to be place instead of the carriage/cross slide. Has adjusters for the gib and a nut to be able to move in and out once installed...

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Looks like a production cross slide that is home made. I started production machining in 1953 on a brand new 11 inch Logan with production slide and 6 position turret. I now own 3 11 inch Logans and use production slide most of the time. I have a couple spare production slides one fits a 11 inch Logan and one fits a I think 12 inch Logan. Logan made 2 types of production slides one is operated using the lathe cross slide nut and the other type had it’s own base With a handle and once set only went from front to back on the lathe it had a stop in each direction. I think the production slide fit both the 10 and 11 inch lathes. I have been told that production slides are more ridgit thus less chatter?
I’m posting pics of slide with front and back tool posts.

Also posting pic of rubberflex collet closer that collets stock from 1/16 dia too 1 and 1/16 dia. material. With the 10 inch machine you can only hold short pieces of stock but with the 11 machine stock can go thru spindle.
Jimsehr

 

[Jimsehr]

With collets I don’t worry about threading in reverse.

 

[wachuko]

Thank you for sharing the information and photos!! Cool!

 

[Bi11Hudson]

A pending task is rewiring the switch so that reverse works... but I keep asking myself, and now to all of you, should I do that??

This is a screw-in chuck setup... no way to lock it in place. Will I ever need the chuck to go in reverse and risk unscrewing itself? Should I just leave it as it is now.

Specially knowing that I have the G0709 lathe with the D1-5 system...

When you do need reverse, rare as it may be, is when you realize that you should have done it when . . . I am not a machinist as such, but winding small solenoid coils does come up occasionally. With the machine in reverse, I can easily watch how the wire lays on its' spool. There are other situations where torque isn't very high and reverse makes work easier. Rare, but they do come up occasionally. My machine has a screw on chuck (both of 'em) but I avoid doing cutting and the like. Neither machine (Grizzly or C'man) has the latching clamp to prevent unscrewing. I may make one, if I ever face hard machining. I don't anticipate any such coming up, but what the future holds. . .

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[Jimsehr]

Before you buy anything verify that your spindle is actually a true MT3. My lathe is an 11" with a 1" bore and has what I thought was an MT4, but it is an odd ball, close but not quite an MT4. This may not be an issue on real Logans as mine is from the Powermatic / Logan era.

As far as the wooden handle, if only you had a classic Delta wood lathe to turn that on...

11 inch Logans have 2 different spindle tapers. Logan site can tell you the one you need by serial number. If you don’t find it call Scott Logan. Some have a Morse taper some have a Logan taper.

 

[Jimsehr]

The shame, the shame, the shame... but I will share it anyway... So I secure this stock in the vise... I get the largest cutter I have, 3/4" 4-flute end mill... I am saying in my mind... I have a Wells-Index... this puppy is going to eat this like there is no mañana... So I go for a single cut of all the material that needs to be removed... And to top it off, I start cutting in the wrong direction... yeah, climb milling instead of conventional... So the end mill digs into the side of the part and the machine stops... I hit the E-Stop.... and I am just going "you stupid F****!!!" You had to try to do this in one pass instead of several cuts, and on top of that, you forget the proper direction to cut it from" Arrggggghhhh....

But wait... it gets better... You would think that I would have checked to see if the vise moved with all this... But nooooooo... Instead I removed the 4-flute end mill, well, because in the process I broke one of the flutes... Install a new one and continue the work...

A complete mess... I figure all this is wrong when I remove the part and test fit it to the compound... goodness...

So I swallow my pride, after finding it, and proceed to fix the vise....

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Then to square the cuts on the top...

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And mill the length to correct dimension..

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Now, I do not have any more material here... all that is back in Orlando... so I just continue to try to at least square the cuts made... All goes well from this point on but the top of the T-Nut ends up smaller than in needs to be... duh!


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So now I am thinking... do I leave it as is? Do I redo the part? Not sure what to do... It was going so well until I got greedy trying to remove material... what a dumba***....

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WARNING ! The top of t-nut should be a little below surface of Logan part. If not l
have seen tool post move under cutting pressure. Can be dangerous if tool breaks. I would make it about 1/32 below lathe surface. This is after the t-nut is lifted up by the tool post bolt.

 

[wa5cab]

The only time that I can think of when you will have to have reverse working on your spindle is using a tool post grinder on the OD of a part.. If you don't have a tool post grinder, I don't think that you really need reverse working.

 

[Jimsehr]

One time reverse is nice is if you are power tapping and you have to back the tap out.
jimsehr

 

[Jimsehr]

It’s nice to use reverse when power tapping.