My Logan 820 Lathe Journey

[mattthemuppet2]

oh man, snapped tap or snapped bolt?

 

[mattthemuppet2]

should be easy enough to fix if you're so inclined - take the cross slide off, mount it upright in the mill and very carefully center a 4 flute centercutting carbide endmill in the hole. Use a slow downfeed and peck and you'll get it out just fine. Pick out the rest of the tap with a small pick and the threads you already cut should be intact.

I've done it several times. it's a bit nervewracking but if you take your time you'll be fine.

 

[wachuko]

should be easy enough to fix if you're so inclined - take the cross slide off, mount it upright in the mill and very carefully center a 4 flute centercutting carbide endmill in the hole. Use a slow downfeed and peck and you'll get it out just fine. Pick out the rest of the tap with a small pick and the threads you already cut should be intact.

I've done it several times. it's a bit nervewracking but if you take your time you'll be fine.

oh man, snapped tap or snapped bolt?

Tap

But not sure what you are talking about… as you can see from the photo, I was able to install the bolt……….

 

[mattthemuppet2]

he he he! As my Dad would say, a blind man would be glad to see it

 

[BGHansen]

Running 2-56 taps reminds me of a line used by concrete contractors: There are two types of concrete; concrete that has cracked and concrete that hasn't cracked yet. If you do a lot of 2-56 tapping, you will break a tap! I had a project with 6 holes tapped 2-56 about 1/2" deep. It took over an hour to tap the holes as the part had about 10 hours of work in it before getting to the tapping job and I was SUPER paranoid about breaking a tap. Run the tap in a turn or maybe two, then back it out to clean out the chips. I even went to making a special tip for my compressor blow gun using a syringe needle to clear out the chips. Yeah, I was using a spiral-pointed tap in blind holes instead of a spiral-flute tap.

A couple of things you may consider in the future to help with the anxiety (at least it worked for me). Threaded fasteners are made for securing, not locating. Pins are made for locating, not securing. Sure, you can use screws to locate, but pins do a better job. Same for securing with a press-fit pin, it works, but you can't beat a good screw!

I'd have done 2 dowel pins in the bracket to locate the bracket and one tapped hole to secure the bracket. Or, maybe one dowel pin for the 4-way locator and use a screw as a 2-way locator and securing device. You'd be less likely to snap a drill bit than a tap; just lessens your chance of a problem having to thread 1 hole instead of 2.

Congrats on a great save! If anyone notices it, they're probably up to no good. I'd heard it multiple times from the Toolmakers at my former workplace: The sign of a good machinist is how well he/she can hide their F-ups.

Just in case you haven't seen them, spiral-flute taps are great for blind holes as they drive the chip up and out of the hole like a drill bit. Spiral-point taps are better for through-holes as they drive the chip down.

Great looking lathe, you should be proud!

Bruce


Spiral-flute tap for blind holes

Spiral-point tap for through holes

 

[wachuko]

Running 2-56 taps reminds me of a line used by concrete contractors: There are two types of concrete; concrete that has cracked and concrete that hasn't cracked yet. If you do a lot of 2-56 tapping, you will break a tap! I had a project with 6 holes tapped 2-56 about 1/2" deep. It took over an hour to tap the holes as the part had about 10 hours of work in it before getting to the tapping job and I was SUPER paranoid about breaking a tap. Run the tap in a turn or maybe two, then back it out to clean out the chips. I even went to making a special tip for my compressor blow gun using a syringe needle to clear out the chips. Yeah, I was using a spiral-pointed tap in blind holes instead of a spiral-flute tap.

A couple of things you may consider in the future to help with the anxiety (at least it worked for me). Threaded fasteners are made for securing, not locating. Pins are made for locating, not securing. Sure, you can use screws to locate, but pins do a better job. Same for securing with a press-fit pin, it works, but you can't beat a good screw!

I'd have done 2 dowel pins in the bracket to locate the bracket and one tapped hole to secure the bracket. Or, maybe one dowel pin for the 4-way locator and use a screw as a 2-way locator and securing device. You'd be less likely to snap a drill bit than a tap; just lessens your chance of a problem having to thread 1 hole instead of 2.

Congrats on a great save! If anyone notices it, they're probably up to no good. I'd heard it multiple times from the Toolmakers at my former workplace: The sign of a good machinist is how well he/she can hide their F-ups.

Just in case you haven't seen them, spiral-flute taps are great for blind holes as they drive the chip up and out of the hole like a drill bit. Spiral-point taps are better for through-holes as they drive the chip down.

Great looking lathe, you should be proud!

Bruce


Spiral-flute tap for blind holes
View attachment 419291
Spiral-point tap for through holes
View attachment 419292

Yeah... I got the second tap on your reply... not the spiral flute tap... I will get some spiral flute taps. I did what you described for the first thread... then, on the second one, I got greedy... thinking I got it down... instead of following what I did in the first one, take it slow, one or two turns at a time, getting the tap out cleaning and going at it again... so there is nobody to blame but me.

Wish I could say, live and learn... but I know my impatience will get the best of me again in the future...

 

[mattthemuppet2]

for the smaller sizes spiral point taps are better if tapping by hand as spiral point are always stronger than spiral flute. Although they push the taps down into the hole you can simply drill deeper than your desired tap depth giving the chips somewhere to go. Sometimes I tap most of a blind hole with a spiral point, blow out the chips with compressed air and then finish with a spiral flute. Once you get above 10-32, it doesn't make much difference.

 

[wachuko]

Okay, with the scales installed and working... figured I would find out what RPM sensor works with TouchDRO and add that as well... To avoid having to add an additional display...

Looking again at the gear setup, there seems to be enough space for a magnet and the sensor/reader... with the wiring going out the back and avoiding issues with gears chewing up the wiring... yeah, I think this can be done... let me go read of what sensors I can use with what I have...

I am working from old photos... the switch is now on its stock location... so there is even more space in that area. The angle bracket is not there... maybe, even if it is a long bracket, I can reuse the thread holes for installing the sensor...

 

[wachuko]

NOS chucks arrived! Atlas chuck was in its original box and wax paper with all the cosmoline from the factory…. WD-40 to the rescue… but still need to take it apart to clean. This was just for the photos…





The Bison chuck is massive!!! this one also came in its original packaging…but there was no cosmoline… the photo is as it came out of the plastic bag it was in…

I think the 4-jaw Atlas will be used more…6-jaw will be used more often than the Bison as well…

 

[Shiseiji]

Vices are nice!

R