MX210 D/S MT5 8x16 lathe review

[Hard_ware]

I did a comparison of the two applications mentioned, but ran into a problem with ChangeWheels.
I entered my lathe data to the best I could understand some parameters

View attachment 353113

For 1mm pitch It gives the following:

View attachment 353114

Evidently, of all the possible alternatives, the program only gives the one with the biggest available gear as first, but that won't work well with my lathe, as the quadrant cover wouldn't fit, one would have to work without it and the safety switch pushed. I really recommend against that.
Of course If I remove from config all gears above 60T I get an usable setup, but that is not a good solution as will not work with all pitches.
So, to be really applicable to any lathe the program would need to list all the alternatives, and/or support additional gear size parameters.

On the other hand, Kachurovskiy's online calculator is simpler, does not consider any physical constraint, and shows all the possible alternatives for a given pitch and the nearest approximate ones
View attachment 353120

as well all the possibly supported pitches, and a simple graphical representation. I like it for two more reasons, first being browser based it can be used on a mobile device when one is to the lathe, and then since it's open source it has room for any kind of improvement.

Anyway, the original reason I went looking into calculators is that I will need to cut a non-standard pitch for an antique clock restoration.

View attachment 353121

Calipers was at 6mm in the pic above, and my assumption is that is a 1/4 of French Ligne, or 0.56mm.
I haven't defined yet the pitch diameter or profile. Both applications give a consistent solution for this pitch, and with that I hope to be able to cut my very 1st thread successfully.

I think you can change the module to 1.0 or try different ones from 1.0-1.8 .
The other program works great as long as you follow the gear pattern properly.

Post finished thread when you cut it.

 

[jdm23]

I think you can change the module to 1.0 or try different ones from 1.0-1.8

My lathe has module 1.5 gears, that is confirmed of a gear with a given number having exactly the expected diameter.

But the other program works great as long as you follow the hear pattern properly.

It works but as I have explained when the only proposed combination makes impossible to replace the cover that is an unacceptable risk to me.

 

[Hard_ware]

My lathe has module 1.5 gears, that is confirmed of a gear with a given number having exactly the expected diameter.




It works but as I have explained when the only proposed combination makes impossible to replace the cover that is an unacceptable risk to me.

On any gear chart a gear in the middle of a single row( not the first or last) the number of teeth does not matter it's just used as a spacer or idler gear.
So the large gear meshing with the spindle gear you are talking about is just used as an idler, you can put any gear you want that fits in its place so your cover will close for safety.

I do like the other program because it lists a 5 gear chain (3 pairs) which expands the ratios available greatly.

 

[greenail]

I can't be 100% sure but shortening the distance to the spindle flange seems to be the best mod i've made for this lathe. In the video I parted some steel and it was better but not great. I just sharpened up my parting tool a bit and it is parting steel like a dream!!!!

 

[kingjamez]

Very interesting result. Great work and thanks for sharing.

It's clear to me from mine, and the above video that another seeming requirement is to upgrade the motor to something with a lot more torque. It won't be cheap, but will vastly improve the entire machine.

 

[greenail]

Very interesting result. Great work and thanks for sharing.

It's clear to me from mine, and the above video that another seeming requirement is to upgrade the motor to something with a lot more torque. It won't be cheap, but will vastly improve the entire machine.

lack of torque at low rpm is a definite problem. I may slap a sewing servo motor on it to see how it runs.

 

[jdm23]

lack of torque at low rpm is a definite problem. I may slap a sewing servo motor on it to see how it runs.

I was investigating DC brushless motors, triphase, VFC inverters and the shebang then realized that the space above the motor can take a countershaft there, in fact there are models which have that. I would be OK with another 2:1 reduction, for sure I don't need 3000 rpm and not even 1500 on my 250mm lathe.

 

[ScottGunSmith]

The lathe will cut metric threads no problem with correct gears.
Imperial threads as well except you cannot disengage the lead-screw you need to backout and run in reverse back to starting point to start your next pass.
When cutting 1mm threads (25.4TPI) you can engage and disengage the lead screw whenever you want.

A C E are the left side gears, BDF are the right side gears.

The spindle gear 56 tooth is not shown in the chart but is needed in the calculation. So to calculate you start on the left side top 56spindle not shown divided by last gear on that side(any gear in the middle is just an idler only fills the gap). Times the first gear on the right side divided by the last gear on the right side. This is the ratio of chuck revolution to lead screw revolution.
Lead screw is 2mm so you multiply the ratio with the 2mm lead screw and the amount of travel you get per chuck revolution. If you travel 1mm per chuck revolution well you are cutting 1mm threads. If you travel 1.5mm per REV you are cutting 1.5mm threads. IF you travel .9071mm per REV you are cutting 28.00 TPI . Pretty simple.
Now for the calculations for the gears needed to cut threads not very simple, a gear calculator is really needed. But with the basic math above you can check if the gears will work. To cut imperial with a metric lead screw you are best served with a 127tooth gear but other gear sets can get you very close. Best program I have found is change gears.js you add your lathe dimensions and gears you have and it will calculate the setup.

Add a lathe MV-210 wheel on headstock 56 tooth, Pitch of lead-screw 2.000 mm, smallest size fo 1st wheel 50, Min difference 10, modul 1.0, 150mm , 140mm. Now enter your gears you have and click ok.

Now you can calculate what gear combo's will cut what threads. 3D printed gears work fine I have not broken a single tooth yet.
A 127 tooth gear will add accuracy to gears needed to cut Imperial threads as well as very fine cutting .002 cut per rev (approx 461 TPI) . Printing combo gears makes changing gears faster as you only need to slide them on the shaft no keyed insert needed as the gears are printed together.

Here is an example going from metric 1mm pitch to 24TPI only need to change middle set and adjust middle and top gear shafts for proper distance. Use a folded piece of paper to space gears so they turn freely. Slide folded paper strip in between gears and press gears together while you tighten the shaft they are mounted on. This will give them a little space to turn freely, makes a big difference.

1mm
84 xx .....56/28 x 20/80=.5 ratio chuck to lead screw x lead screw pitch 2mm = 1mm travel per chuck rev good
28 20 ......84 gear is a fill the gap gear does not count
xx 80

24TPI
84 xx ......56/41 x 31/80 =.52926829 ratio x 2mm lead screw = 1.05853659 travel per rev in mm
41 31 ......now to convert this to inches 25.4 / 1.05853659 travel per rev in mm = 23.995 TPI good
xx 80

Hope you can follow.
Graphic display of gears in the change gear program will be mirror image so left gears go on right side and vice versa.
You can see this as only one side attaches to the spindle gear.

@Hard_ware I sincerely appreciate this. I have been scouring the internet for a few days now. Still not sure if I have it figured out but this app and your input has really helped. I owe you a beer.

 

[jdm23]

I was investigating DC brushless motors, triphase, VFC inverters and the shebang then realized that the space above the motor can take a countershaft there, in fact there are models which have that. I would be OK with another 2:1 reduction, for sure I don't need 3000 rpm and not even 1500 on my 250mm lathe.

There, speed reducer done:

More torque from 250mm lathe, my way.

I find the lack of torque at low speed to be too much of a problem, it prevents or makes very difficult to do some work that would be straightforward on a 'real' lathe, even a small one. So I went to do something about it. This is a quick summary of how I did it, there is no BOM, drawings or...

www.hobby-machinist.com

@Hard_ware I sincerely appreciate this. I have been scouring the internet for a few days now. Still not sure if I have it figured out but this app and your input has really helped. I owe you a beer.

I have also developed an online/offline calculator, with native metric and imperial support

New Lathe Change Wheels Calculator

Time ago I needed to cut a non standard thread on my Chinese 250mm lathe, finding the solution was not difficult, but I remained a bit unsatisfied with the available calculators, both online or Windows executables, so I started working on an existing one and made a bunch of improvements to it...

www.hobby-machinist.com

 

[Hard_ware]

@Hard_ware I sincerely appreciate this. I have been scouring the internet for a few days now. Still not sure if I have it figured out but this app and your input has really helped. I owe you a beer.

Here are some gear combos.
The I is for idler gears you can substitute whatever fits best if needed.
The 56 is the spindle gear.

20TPI =20.01212
40-30
66-84
52-xx