Intro to my little hobby metal shop and request for tooling recommendations

[CounterSunkenTreasure]

oooo the quoting system on this platform is lovely... I'm used to vBulletin...

Yes, I forgot the 4 jaw that comes with the G4000 is awful.

I'll give it a whirl after I fabricate a new key for it. For the level of stuff I'm doing it should be passable for now. saw an older USA one for sale locally but by the time I buy or fabricate a backplate its basically the cost of a new purpose built import one. We will see. Autocross season is buttoning up so i'll have some more focus on the shop.

There are lots of cool things to spend money on, but the ER collets are something I actually use fairly often.

Thanks for the tip. I'll put it all on the purchase/trade list.

I'm just using a simple one that can cut about a 3" pass with a 3/8" HSS bit. I just ground it myself and it works great.

Is it best practice to get an R8 or can i just get a straight shank and put it in a collet? Seems like a super simple tool so i wouldnt mind an import. I assume the head size doesnt dictate the diameter as you can extend it out a bit more?

For HSS blanks, start with some import HSS.

As for sizing. 3/8 x 3" or 4" optimal. or should i just upsize to 1/2".

would probably be $3k including good ballscrews and all the conversion hardware. Add $1k if you want DMM servos.

I assume that's all the add on after the cost of the mill?

Wish I'd spent $100-200 extra to start with so the drills were better quality. Again, split point would be a must IMO.

Yeah I picked up some USA HSS from an estate sale which are delightful. I just dont have the full range of the master set. Split point matter if you are spot drilling?

ut you won't be able to really "use" the full capability of the tool. I think I can get close to actually "using" the full capabilities of 1/4" tooling in steel. If you're paying for carbide,

Yeah i for sure get that. but lets say i was facing a full side of something or a top. I feel one of the 1" tools i got with a light pass would be more rigid than a smaller one. but maybe too light a pass would have a poor finish. I'll experiment and see what's up. As far as the carbide. I wasnt seeking it out. My lot acquisitions had me come into a lot of it as you can see from my pics. I was just wondering if i could use it to the same extent as HSS or if it only works well getting cranked up a bunch. Otherwise i might try to sell or trade some.

Large Depth of cut (e.g. .750") and small width of cut (e.g. 0.030") seems to work best on this machine if you get the choice.

Thanks for the tip!

 

[DavidR8]

As for sizing. 3/8 x 3" or 4" optimal. or should i just upsize to 1/2".

I would go with 3/8 as the largest HSS tool blanks.


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[ttabbal]

I prefer straight shank in a collet. In theory integral R8 can be more accurate, but I haven't noticed any problems.

Unless you have a larger lathe, 3/8 HSS is great. I can fit 1/2 and use them sometimes, but they are harder to grind. More material to remove. And the added rigidity doesn't really get used on smaller machines like my 11x27.

 

[macardoso]

I assume that's all the add on after the cost of the mill?

Unfortunately yes. You can get by cheaper, but that was my experience.

Yeah I picked up some USA HSS from an estate sale which are delightful. I just dont have the full range of the master set. Split point matter if you are spot drilling?

I'd say yes. Split point don't always need a spot drill and tend to drill straighter either way. The chips cut more cleanly and eject better. They also tend to be made better overall.

Yeah i for sure get that. but lets say i was facing a full side of something or a top. I feel one of the 1" tools i got with a light pass would be more rigid than a smaller one. but maybe too light a pass would have a poor finish. I'll experiment and see what's up. As far as the carbide. I wasnt seeking it out. My lot acquisitions had me come into a lot of it as you can see from my pics. I was just wondering if i could use it to the same extent as HSS or if it only works well getting cranked up a bunch. Otherwise i might try to sell or trade some.

I'd stick with the flycutter for that. You wouldn't think it, but a 3/4" or 1" 2 flute carbide wood router bit also does a nice job on one of on these smaller mills. Best in aluminum, OK in steel.

Carbide is nice, and I love the rigidity of the tool for CNC, but it is perhaps less necessary for manual work. Try it out and let us know.

Carbide CAN be run very fast but does not need to be (some Heat Resistant Super Alloys - HRSA - are an exception as they use the speed of the tool to locally soften the metal to make cutting easier). My modded G0704 spindle only goes to 5000 rpm which is well below the speed for carbide tools less than 1/2". They still work great.

 

[seanb]

Cheap chinese drills are junk. Higher quality chinese drills like Shars sells work good.

 

[macardoso]

Cheap chinese drills are junk. Higher quality chinese drills like Shars sells work good.

+1 to that. China can make nice stuff for people willing to pay fair price for it. My only gripe with Shars drills (and I buy quite a lot from them) is that you need to buy in boxes of 5-10 which makes it a bit expensive to replace lots of different individual drills.

 

[markba633csi]

Good score! Definitely look for a small bench grinder if you don't have one. You can use the 1/2" endmills in aluminum but they're too big for steel with the machine you have. Use slow speeds for steel cutting and use oil. Cast iron can be cut dry. Watch your fingers always! And protect your eyes
-Mark

 

[macardoso]

I see a few of the carbide endmills you have are made specifically for aluminum. These would be the 2 and 3 flute cutters with sharp edges, deep flutes, and a white gold coating (ZrN). You'll find these to do an awesome job on Aluminum unless they're beat up.

 

[CounterSunkenTreasure]

Unfortunately yes. You can get by cheaper, but that was my experience.

probably not on my near term list then . too many hobbies.

I'd say yes. Split point don't always need a spot drill and tend to drill straighter either way. The chips cut more cleanly and eject better. They also tend to be made better overall.

roger. ill keep my eye out probably for some second hand USA most likely since i have a good usa set in the main sizes already

I'd stick with the flycutter for that. You wouldn't think it, but a 3/4" or 1" 2 flute carbide wood router bit also does a nice job on one of on these smaller mills. Best in aluminum, OK in steel.

okee dokee

Carbide is nice, and I love the rigidity of the tool for CNC, but it is perhaps less necessary for manual work. Try it out and let us know.

will do

My modded G0704 spindle only goes to 5000 rpm

I assume that was a combo of the new motor... regearing/belting.. and new bearings as well? I wouldnt mind some more speed even for manual.

Cheap chinese drills are junk. Higher quality chinese drills like Shars sells work good.

sure... theres a spectrum. thanks for the Shars recommendation

China can make nice stuff for people willing to pay fair price for it

Agreed... the trouble is discerning them

Definitely look for a small bench grinder if you don't have one. You can use the 1/2" endmills in aluminum but they're too big for steel with the machine you have. Use slow speeds for steel cutting and use oil.

Yep... you can see the grinder just to the right of the mill. I honestly hate grinding through as I hate the mess. I even picked up a portaband to skip cutoff wheels etc. I'll have to develop some dust collection. On the topic after making some chips on the lathe (still need to work on a nice finish) i've got to find a way to contain the chips a little better as well. cleanup was a bummer.

I read not to use oil with carbide unless its constant flood or mist coolant. But def on HSS.

I see a few of the carbide endmills you have are made specifically for aluminum. These would be the 2 and 3 flute cutters with sharp edges, deep flutes, and a white gold coating (ZrN). You'll find these to do an awesome job on Aluminum unless they're beat up.

Yep. I looked up all the mfg specs on the endmills to see what the heck i had. I have a bunch of that, now i just need to find some aluminum. I used to have a metal supply that sold large pieces of all kinds of stock. and whatever cutoffs were left about after that were sold at discount prices. they were all home shop sized. unfortunately i moved from there so going to have to try to find another.

 

[CounterSunkenTreasure]

I prefer straight shank in a collet. In theory integral R8 can be more accurate, but I haven't noticed any problems.

What makes you prefer straight shank? Wider availability and interchangeability of specific tooling? Or is there another reason I'm missing.