GE Lathe Motor Disassembly, with no doubt wiring questions later

[Gaffer]

I bought this Colchester Master 6.5" a couple of years ago. It hasn't seen much use, and I knew when I bought it that a previous owner bypassed a few factory switches and that it only ran in forward. This weekend, I thought it was time to dive into it as I'd like to put it back in factory condition to include the coolant system. The person who rewired it was a butcher - crimp caps, bizarre wire extensions - a general fire hazard.


I pulled the motor last night and put PB Blaster on the screws, bolts, and spindle ends. I have two screws giving me fits but they don't appear to be a present issue as far as disassembly as I can't figure out what they do. They don't appear to extend through the housing. They screw into the case at both ends of the spindle, and they are at 12 and 6 o'clock positions. I've tried several cycles of PB, tapping, heating to no avail.


The pulley in front came off without issue, but I can't get the back of the housing off. There is a single wire that extends from the middle of the casing, I assume from a coil to I think the clutch? I beat on it some and it doesn't want to move. I can't figure out a way to press it out, and I don't want to break anything. Here are pictures of the assembly and the ID plate should it help. I appreciate your help.




I'd swear a mouse lived in this motor at one point. There are numerous pieces of shredded paper inside. The front bearing looked and felt fine except for the dried grease. The backside, however, had hair or another type of fibrous debrief stuck in it. I'm not sure how I can pull it as it sits quite a ways down the spindle, but I plan to replace the bearings while I'm in there.

 

[Martin W]

I wonder if those screws should be oil cups?

 

[benmychree]

The plugs are for grease, the lower one is to let old grease out when adding new grease to the upper one. Generally, you bump on the shaft to remove the rear end bell.

 

[markba633csi]

How many wires coming out of the motor? Can you read any of the tags on them? Is the capacitor mounted to the motor or is it someplace else?
Is there a control box/control panel? Pics?
Do you have a manual for it? Diagrams?
The wire could be for the centrifugal switch, try not to damage it

 

[Gaffer]

I counted 7 wires, and I can't read the tags. I'll try cleaning it up but I doubt I'll have much luck. Prior to pulling the motor, there was old masking tape on one of them with 1 on it. It disintegrated upon removal. The other wires had masking tape at one point but were long gone. I'll clean it up the best I can to see if I can read anything on the tags.

I'll keep tapping it to get it separated. Thanks

 

[Gaffer]

@markba633csi From the coil, they are marked 1, 4, 5, and fourth that is not marked. It is attached to a ring terminal on the switch. The other wire on the switch is #8. There are three wires to the Spencer thermostat. Looking at the photo, the left side wire is #10, the right side wire is #11, and the lower center wire is #7.

@benmychree you inspired me to go with the next bigger hammer and more aggression, and she separated fine. Thank you. The rear bearing has about had it!

 

[markba633csi]

OK. Do you have a multimeter? I assume you don't have any documentation for the machine
We may have to do a few tests. Do some cleaning first- it needs it

 

[Gaffer]

OK. Do you have a multimeter? I assume you don't have any documentation for the machine
We may have to do a few tests. Do some cleaning first- it needs it

Yeppers to both. As for bearings, I can't find any markings on mine. I measured them and they are 15mm X 25mm X 52mm. For replacements, I found 6205-2RS with rubber seals and 6205-2Z that are steel. I believe Timken and SKF are quality brands. This motor spins at 1725 RPM. What do you recommend?

These are what came out.

 

[Ulma Doctor]

The 6205-1RS bearings are better than the 6205-Zbearings, the 1RS versions neoprene seal seals out moisture as well as dust. The Z shield is only good for sealing out dust.
SKF or Timken are good brands

 

[Gaffer]

I opened the conduit elbows to look at the wiring. I also pulled the front panel, and holy smokes there's a lot of jewelry in there. The picture of the front panel has a three-way rotary switch - off, on with pump, and on w/o pump. There are two additional push-button momentary switches, one that sticks out and a recessed one. I'll have to pour through the manual for their purposes, but I assume a reset, IDK. It would seem an impractical place for an emergency stop.

A previous owner completely bypassed thes panel and pump. I hope to put it back into operation.


In the picture above, the top right with the four brass lugs is only using two of them, red and black from the main power input. The top left is the three-way on-off switch, and the lower left I believe is for the momentary switches.

I pulled the pump. Other than a rusty shaft/impeller? and a completely plugged screen of rust, it looks okay. I have the shaft/impeller soaking in Evaporust. Hopefully, it will be functional after cleanup.



@Ulma Doctor 6205-1RS they will be. Thank you.