Does anyone have some Babbitt?

benmychree said:
The highest grade would be "high speed nickel babbit" McMaster has a good comparison chart.
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Thats what this is. Used it on 10 thou.lb. service elevator ring gear shafts
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Wow, thanks for the responses, guys. Very cool! Given the choices, I think the Rollite 77 lead- nickel would be the ideal choice for its abrasion and shock resistance.

@Charles scozzari , I'll pm you in the morning to send some tool funds your way.

I've been putting this job off but I need to get going on it. I finally found pics of the part I need to rebuild in my carriage and realized it was a poured in bearing, which was a real relief. As they say in the islands, time to get it did.
 
pontiac428 said:
Wow, thanks for the responses, guys. Very cool! Given the choices, I think the Rollite 77 lead- nickel would be the ideal choice for its abrasion and shock resistance.

@Charles scozzari , I'll pm you in the morning to send some tool funds your way.

I've been putting this job off but I need to get going on it. I finally found pics of the part I need to rebuild in my carriage and realized it was a poured in bearing, which was a real relief. As they say in the islands, time to get it did.
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Good morning, all I need I a mailing address, and I'll have it on it's way, PLEASE NOTHING ELSE. I'm more than happy just helping you out. Thanks, Charlie.
 
pontiac428 said:
I'm looking for a few pounds of some known-good bearing babbitt. Anyone have some sitting off in the corner somewhere that is going unutilized?

Just for clarity, I'm not looking for any old lead, but a hard lead alloy for babbitting bearings. I am looking to use it to restore a 7/8 internal hex sliding bearing bore for the carriage drive on my Nardini.

Thanks!
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I have know those building the old engines to mix a lead/antimony with a tad bit of tin to make bearing grade material. I know these are the ingredients for hard ball; but thise requires a heavier mix on antimony than does hard ball.
 
This one will probably start some interesting conversation. Has anyone used the pine wood method to tell when the babbitt is at the right temp. (not over heated) and ready to be poured ?.
 
Charles scozzari said:
This one will probably start some interesting conversation. Has anyone used the pine wood method to tell when the babbitt is at the right temp. (not over heated) and ready to be poured ?.
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I have never poured babbitt. I dusted off my Fluke IR temp probe yesterday, and it was acting wonky after disuse. I might need to cough up for a decent temp gun, but that is the route I planned. Belmont Metals does not put any useful info online, so I will have to call them to get specifics on pouring temps for both the babbitt and the work. It's probably just below 500 F, being mostly lead. The tin, copper, and arsenic are all low percentages, so I don't see it moving much north of that.
 
lordbeezer said:
600-650 F.
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I mentioned the pine test because it was used as a guide for when the babbitt was ready for a pour. With the babbitt in the ladle being heated from the under side of the ladle with a propane tank torch we would stick a shard of pine wood into the heating babbitt every so often until the shard of pine would ignite into a small flame indicating it was ready for use. It was then poured into the shackle to fill the rosetted hoist rope and secure it in position. Bearings were done by using fire clay to contain the hot babbitt after the old babbitt was removed. Remember this was done in the field and was the accepted method at that time in the 60s 70s 80s.This was something that was done routinely on new and old work. Above all make sure there is no water/grease/oil present in the area to be filled before pouring, or the babbitt will pop like hot lava and you will be severely burned. Use welding gloves for added protection when holding the ladle. Make the pour in one continuous shot, don't stop the pour. I just touched on the some very basic steps of the process. Resist the urge to touch anything to see if it's cooled. Be careful and you'll make out fine.
 
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