Difference between 7x, 8x or 9x Chinese Lathes

[savarin]

Aw shucks Mike, dont forget I dont let on about all my stuffups.

 

[hman]

Aw sucks, yourself, @savarin ... Boo-boos encountered on the way are nothing, compared to the quality of the final result. And your results speak for themselves!

Also, as I've (delightedly) learned for myself, we're not working against a schedule. So mistakes are doubly unimportant.

 

[savarin]

Also, as I've (delightedly) learned for myself, we're not working against a schedule. So mistakes are doubly unimportant.

Ha Ha, aint that the truth.

 

[ThinWoodsman]

I purchased my 9x20 in the understanding it was really a kit of parts that required a lot of work to fettle and get working well.

About five years ago, I purchased a 7x lathe without that understanding, and having no experience with running a lathe (or a mill, for that matter) it almost turned me off the hobby completely. Fortunately, I went with some of the "get proper-sized machinery" advice, which proved well-founded: I built a shop, bought some decent-quality used machines, and couldn't be happier.

The 7x has been demoted to wood-lathe status. In time, I may get a proper wood lathe and use it only for grinding. I have toyed with the idea of making it a rigid and precise machine, and while that is a challenge, I am not sure it is worth the trouble.

I understand that a 7x is all that some people have room for, and that experienced owners can make better use of the thing than I initially could, and that for some the least expensive lathe is the only option. In my experience, however, I bought a proper lathe for slightly over double the cost of the 7x, not counting the outlay for the riggers of course. So, considerations of space and budget aside, I view the 7x, and possibly the 8x, import lathes as a waste of time and money.

 

[Firstram]

I have a green 7x10 that I got from a friend who got it used in the 90's, it's serial # 184. Motor and controller were both shot. I think it was machined with a hammer and chisel. It was so bad you couldn't adjust slop out and have any travel on any axis.

Over the years I have upgraded everything
Treadmill motor, KB controller, jack shaft
Up graded the spindle to 4"
Tapered roller bearings
1" extra travel cross slide
20 TPI lead screws
Ball bearings on cross, compound and carriage feeds
Camlock tailstock and compound
Moved feed direction and speed levers to front of machine
Scraped for contact and oil retention
Custom banjo for additional feed speed reduction

I'm sure there's more but you get the idea, it definitely was a kit.
Now I can take a .050 doc on aluminum.
It is my go to for small bushings and pins, but I'm glad I have a 1340 Jet for everything else!

 

[silence dogood]

I have a Lathemaster 8x14. Lathemaster does not sell lathes of mills anymore. However HF sells the same machine but call it 8x12. Yes, it is a much beefier machine and can do a lot more than a 7". You can get tooling from HF or LMS. Grizzly has a 8" but weighs at 190lbs. Little Machine Shop 8" weighs at 240lbs but at 500 bucks more. Mine weighs at 260lbs, that's more than some 9". Yeah, there are things other than weight, but mass and how rigid a machine is important. I've had my lathe for about 10 years now. This lathe is a plain Jane but tough and has served me well. If I bought a 8" now, I'd most likely go for Little Machine Shop.

 

[MillersvilleProf]

I have always found the 7" machines capable in good hands, but feel many folks have unrealistic expectations for them. I teach some machining classes at Millersville University and purchased eight of the LMS 7x16 lathes for my lab about four years ago. I use these along with five 13" Clausing Colchesters to teach the basics of metal turning. I also used Cummins 7x12" lathes when I taught at the University of North Dakota along with several Sherlines and had no problems with those either. My normal project for students is a small oscillating steam engine and students maintain the required tolerances with no problems.

 

[Tom-C]

Hi,
I have a 8X16 Sieg SC4 that I got 10 years ago from Travers tool. This is basically the same machine that Little Machine Shop sells. The Sieg SC4 is the smallest machine I could find with power cross feed, and I use that a lot. You cut a piece of round stock on the saw and the next step is into the lathe to true the ends. It is not a lightweight at about 275 pounds, but it has done everything I have asked of it. It sits on a Harbor Freight tool box with everything I need in the tool box. QCTP and DRO have made a world of difference.

 

[ShagDog]

Thread has been revived. As an update, I can now answer my own question; however, only as to an older 8x machine. I recently bought a used Select Lathe 816b with an 8 3/8" swing and 16" between centers. Weighs over 275 lbs. It is from around late 1970's or 1980, and made in Taiwan. Here is a thread dedicated to it: https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/select-816-b-lathe-acquired.32320/#post-342429

In any event, this lathe is like night and day in comparison to the 7x lathes I have tried. I really like this lathe. Thank's all for your input.

 

[silence dogood]

Thread has been revived. As an update, I can now answer my own question; however, only as to an older 8x machine. I recently bought a used Select Lathe 816b with an 8 3/8" swing and 16" between centers. Weighs over 275 lbs. It is from around late 1970's or 1980, and made in Taiwan. Here is a thread dedicated to it: https://www.homemodelenginemachinist.com/threads/select-816-b-lathe-acquired.32320/#post-342429

In any event, this lathe is like night and day in comparison to the 7x lathes I have tried. I really like this lathe. Thank's all for your input.

Sounds like a real fine machine. Would like to see some pictures.