Building a wood bench for a lathe

[ryanj1234]

Spent some time in CAD trying to flesh out exactly what I want. I think I'm going to add more 4x4s to the middle, so I get an absolute tank like @zippyslug31 . That also provides nice sections for drawers and a cabinet.

I may be getting ahead of myself with those though... For starters, I'm just going to focus on the frame, fancy bits can be added later.


A couple things I'm not sure about. For the top, I could just add several more horizontal braces like so (they aren't perfectly lined up in the drawing right now). And they will definitely go under the lathe mounting bolts ala @MrCrankyface

Alternatively, @silence dogood suggested a beam to go under the lathe, which I have seen before. Maybe something like this, if I just threw another 4x4 directly under where the lathe should be, with some extra 2x4s on the side to provide a mount for the bolts? Kind of like it now that I drew it up, just creating a lot more cuts to make

An occasional move while you sort out a shop layout is not what I'd call regular use.

More I think about it, the more I don't think this thing needs to roll around. Taking your suggestion to make the bottom level with the legs, it could have a huge contact with the ground and I'm sure feel ridiculously sturdy... Problem is my garage is very sloped. I think the back will need to be ~1/2" higher than the front to be even where I want to place this thing. And I'd rather not try to build that in, for fear of getting it wrong and having to shim anyway, and also so it's still usable in my next garage which will hopefully be reasonably level.

So I don't know... Maybe I'll just throw the casters on anyway, see how well they do

 

[bill70j]

I like your latest design a lot. Here are few items you might consider to improve it further:

1) Laminate 2x4's to make the top, alternating the grain structure to minimize potential for warping. To minimize cost, use kiln dried construction grade 2X4's and acclimate for a couple of weeks before building. Finish with polyurethane
2) Review your design and see if you can substitute mortise and tenon joinery in key areas to replace fasteners. This will help ensure long lasting, tight joints
3) "Roughly" level the bench with shims under the legs then secure all of the legs to the floor
4) "Precision" level the lathe on the bench by first placing metal plates under the bed feet, then using shims under the feet and securing the bed to the bench top with through bolts

I am including a few of photos of the bench under my 10" Atlas. It is designed based on the wooden benches Atlas sold for their lathes (Atlas Catalogue No. 45, p. 13, May 1945). It's very similar to what you're proposing. Also, I have checked the bed level and it has remained good since I finished the bench several years ago.

Good luck and keep us updated as you go!

Regards, Bill

 

[ryanj1234]

I like your latest design a lot. Here are few items you might consider to improve it further:

1) Laminate 2x4's to make the top, alternating the grain structure to minimize potential for warping. To minimize cost, use kiln dried construction grade 2X4's and acclimate for a couple of weeks before building. Finish with polyurethane
2) Review your design and see if you can substitute mortise and tenon joinery in key areas to replace fasteners. This will help ensure long lasting, tight joints
3) "Roughly" level the bench with shims under the legs then secure all of the legs to the floor
4) "Precision" level the lathe on the bench by first placing metal plates under the bed feet, then using shims under the feet and securing the bed to the lathe with through bolts

I am including a few of photos of the bench under my 10" Atlas. It is designed based on the wooden benches Atlas sold for their lathes (Atlas Catalogue No. 45, p. 13, May 1945). It's very similar to what you're proposing. Also, I have checked the bed level and it has remained good since I finished the bench several years ago.

Good luck and keep us updated as you go!

Regards, Bill

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You have a fantastic looking shop, I am very jealous! Curious, do you ever use the milling head on your Smithy when you have that pristine Bridgeport right next to it?

To your points though - I was considering the approach of laminating boards for the top. I've actually got a small stack of 2x6s sitting in the garage that used to be part of a deck. They don't look great right now, but I've run some through a planer and used for other projects and they clean up pretty nicely. Already acclimated too. I'm sure I could trim to size and get something that looks decent.

For your top, what does the underside look like? Is it 4 inch thick all the way across, or are only the outer boards that thick? Is it attached with those metal brackets I see in one of the pics?

As far mortise and tenons go, I get that's probably the best way to do things... But is something I've never attempted before. I'm guessing the half lap joints I've got are almost as good?

 

[silence dogood]

An easy way to make mortise and tenon joints is instead using 4x4s use three 1x4s and laminate them together. The middle 1x4 will be longer or shorter depending on whether it's a tenon or mortise. There are a lot of sites on the net that will show you how to do it.

 

[Aaron_W]

.

The middle set of 4x4s is massive overkill that just adds cost and takes up space that could be used for more storage. A 4x4 in compression (vertical orientation with weight above) can support multiple tons.
2x4's on their side as shown can each support several hundred pounds, and you are already running several for a lathe only weighing about 300lbs. If you are really concerned about sagging you could bump up to 2x6s on the top instead of 2x4s which would add even more strength for less cost and space. Although it may feel like you have weight in the middle of the bench, you really don't, the weight is mostly at the ends where the legs of the lathe sit.

I'm am a believer in overbuilding, so I understand where this is coming from. I went with 2x6s for the top on my last bench even though I know it was way more than I needed for the 250lb lathe I built it for.

 

[ryanj1234]

The middle set of 4x4s is massive overkill that just adds cost and takes up space that could be used for more storage. A 4x4 in compression (vertical orientation with weight above) can support multiple tons.
2x4's on their side as shown can each support several hundred pounds, and you are already running several for a lathe only weighing about 300lbs. If you are really concerned about sagging you could bump up to 2x6s on the top instead of 2x4s which would add even more strength for less cost and space. Although it may feel like you have weight in the middle of the bench, you really don't, the weight is mostly at the ends where the legs of the lathe sit.

I'm am a believer in overbuilding, so I understand where this is coming from. I went with 2x6s for the top on my last bench even though I know it was way more than I needed for the 250lb lathe I built it for.

The middle 4x4s definitely felt a bit much, I may see what 2x4s look like in their place.

You have any pictures of your benches? I'm curious to see some other designs, especially if you got 2x6s on the top

 

[Aaron David]

I made a combination of tanker desk and a new wood top for my South bend. I striped off the old top of the desk, and added a laminate from Home Depot:



I had to disassemble the desk to get it into my shop, the wood looks good and is easy to drill into to mount things, and it looks professionally done. I am very happy with how it turned out.

 

[bill70j]

You have a fantastic looking shop, I am very jealous! Curious, do you ever use the milling head on your Smithy when you have that pristine Bridgeport right next to it?

To your points though - I was considering the approach of laminating boards for the top. I've actually got a small stack of 2x6s sitting in the garage that used to be part of a deck. They don't look great right now, but I've run some through a planer and used for other projects and they clean up pretty nicely. Already acclimated too. I'm sure I could trim to size and get something that looks decent.

For your top, what does the underside look like? Is it 4 inch thick all the way across, or are only the outer boards that thick? Is it attached with those metal brackets I see in one of the pics?

As far mortise and tenons go, I get that's probably the best way to do things... But is something I've never attempted before. I'm guessing the half lap joints I've got are almost as good?

The top is all 2X4 stock, except for the 3/4" thick trim on the sides and ends, which is hard maple for durability. So the underside looks just like the topside. It is secured to the frame with steel brackets that are chunks of 2" angle iron. I used mechanical fasteners here to allow for longitudinal movement with change in humidity.

And yes, I use the Smithy mill often. I've had it a long time, so know how it acts and what it can and cannot do. (But the BP clone is nice too)

 

[ryanj1234]

The top is all 2X4 stock, except for the 3/4" thick trim on the sides and ends, which is hard maple for durability. So the underside looks just like the topside. It is secured to the frame with steel brackets that are chunks of 2" angle iron. I used mechanical fasteners here to allow for longitudinal movement with change in humidity.

And yes, I use the Smithy mill often. I've had it a long time, so know how it acts and what it can and cannot do. (But the BP clone is nice too)

Did you run the top through a planer to get it that smooth? Or just cut and glue the boards very carefully so it comes out like that?

 

[ryanj1234]

I made a combination of tanker desk and a new wood top for my South bend. I striped off the old top of the desk, and added a laminate from Home Depot:



I had to disassemble the desk to get it into my shop, the wood looks good and is easy to drill into to mount things, and it looks professionally done. I am very happy with how it turned out.

Very nice, the butcher block top looks perfect for a Southbend.

I started this thread thinking I would build a quick little bench for my Craftsman, which was intended to be a backup lathe/fun project. But with the effort I'm putting into this bench I think my Southbend may just go on it

The Craftsman would just have to go on the Southbend's old bench (built by previous owner. It's ok, but not as sturdy as I want it)