Building a wood bench for a lathe

[bill70j]

Did you run the top through a planer to get it that smooth? Or just cut and glue the boards very carefully so it comes out like that?

I first prepared all the boards individually, then glued them up in two groups - each group 9-1/2" wide, then glued the two groups together for a total width of 19" Then finished the surface.

To prep the boards, I went through this sequence: 1) Joint one edge; 2) Joint one surface; 3) Run it through the table saw for a second parallel edge; 4) Run it through the thickness planer for a second parallel surface. So now in theory you have parallel and perpendicular edges and surfaces - all the same height and thickness

The biggest help for me in making the surface flat during glue up is using Jet's J-clamps. (see a typical setup below.) Once the glue is dry, I go over the surface with a sharp card scraper which removes the squeeze-out and knocks down any proud surfaces. Then hit it with an RO sander and it's done. You could replace the scraping and sanding with a run through the planer as well.

 

[Jake M]

Spent some time in CAD trying to flesh out exactly what I want. I think I'm going to add more 4x4s to the middle, so I get an absolute tank like @zippyslug31 . That also provides nice sections for drawers and a cabinet.
View attachment 439756

Before I critique anything, let me say that this finished product is something that I'd be very happy to have. My heirs would inherit it, because it would serve very well.

I may be getting ahead of myself with those though... For starters, I'm just going to focus on the frame, fancy bits can be added later.

Nothing wrong with getting ahead of yourself, so long as you know you're doing it. It's a good way to end up going down a rabbit hole if it gets away from you, but it also helps you future proof a little too, if you're gonna need hinges somewhere, or one of those drawers is going to have to hold a particular piece that's fifteen and seven eighths of an inch wide, and you need a finger under it to lift it...

A couple things I'm not sure about. For the top, I could just add several more horizontal braces like so (they aren't perfectly lined up in the drawing right now). And they will definitely go under the lathe mounting bolts ala @MrCrankyface
View attachment 439760

Those supports are under no obligation to be symetrical. So long as the maximum span between any two doesn't exceed any design strength (or on a small bench, no gap is big enough to make you loose that warm fuzzy feeling like "this'll hold anything...). You can add all the extras that you want, and I agree with you, one should "land" directly under every mounting point that your lathe has.

Alternatively, @silence dogood suggested a beam to go under the lathe, which I have seen before. Maybe something like this, if I just threw another 4x4 directly under where the lathe should be, with some extra 2x4s on the side to provide a mount for the bolts? Kind of like it now that I drew it up, just creating a lot more cuts to make

View attachment 439762

I'm not so sure that the beam is going to gain you a whole bunch, if any, in this way and configuration. It will be a tremendous gain in one sense, but a tremendous structural loss to "split" all the cross supports.

One other thought from this last drawing- Just thoughts, and they're somewhat contradictory to each other... As it's built right now, if you could put a pure vertical load on that, you're probably in the range of supporting somethinig in the low/mid to high/mid twenty thousand pound range. Hold a tape measure up to some (any) available cabinets, drawers, whatever you can find. I believe (I don't know, and why I'm suggesting you check), I believe those center four by fours are going to cost you a lot of access. WAY more than the nominal or actual dimensions would imply. Of course, they also give the impression of the bench being built like a brick (out)house too.

On the other hand, those extra four by fours do add more (presumably glued) joints, which goes towards geometrical stability. Vibrations, racking, movement in directions other than vertical. Which I think is far more at issue here than a brute strength pure vertical load.

More I think about it, the more I don't think this thing needs to roll around. Taking your suggestion to make the bottom level with the legs, it could have a huge contact with the ground and I'm sure feel ridiculously sturdy... Problem is my garage is very sloped. I think the back will need to be ~1/2" higher than the front to be even where I want to place this thing. And I'd rather not try to build that in, for fear of getting it wrong and having to shim anyway, and also so it's still usable in my next garage which will hopefully be reasonably level.

So I don't know... Maybe I'll just throw the casters on anyway, see how well they do

Huge contact with the ground, especially on imperfect floors, is that it hits EVERY high spot, but none of the low spots. If it's built too strong to "flex" into a solidly planted position, it'll rock. I'd personally prefer if it hit at all four corners only. Eight "corners" with the extra center "legs" could be doable too, but leveling gets complicated, and I suspect your lathe is only bolting at two ends, with no middle supports? If so, that makes microadjusting the center of the bench pretty irrelevant.

If you're considering giving up on wheels, consider this- Make sure that some feature is added, OR some existing feature is suitable, such that you can actually get under it enough to jack this thing up, even if it's incrementally by the millimeter, have a plan. You're in the range where it's light enough that you and a few buddies could probably drag it around, and that "might" be the most prudent approach, but leave a plan. Or better yet, a "way out", when you need to (or just want to) drag it around yourself. If you put four wood pads on the outside legs (like your guy in the video did to mount his casters), then you'd have on average, 12mm of space under nearly the entire perimeter of that bench. You could get a prybar in that easily. That's something tangible and solid that you or anyone helping you can bank on and work with at any time, when plan A, (arguably the better plan) doesn't work out.

 

[ryanj1234]

I first prepared all the boards individually, then glued them up in two groups - each group 9-1/2" wide, then glued the two groups together for a total width of 19" Then finished the surface.

To prep the boards, I went through this sequence: 1) Joint one edge; 2) Joint one surface; 3) Run it through the table saw for a second parallel edge; 4) Run it through the thickness planer for a second parallel surface. So now in theory you have parallel and perpendicular edges and surfaces - all the same height and thickness

The biggest help for me in making the surface flat during glue up is using Jet's J-clamps. (see a typical setup below.) Once the glue is dry, I go over the surface with a sharp card scraper which removes the squeeze-out and knocks down any proud surfaces. Then hit it with an RO sander and it's done. You could replace the scraping and sanding with a run through the planer as well.

View attachment 439825

I see. I have a 12" planer so I was trying to figure out if I would need to build the top in two sections so each could fit through the planer.

That's some serious work though, you ran every single board through a joiner, table saw and planer? Absolute dedication

 

[ryanj1234]

An easy way to make mortise and tenon joints is instead using 4x4s use three 1x4s and laminate them together. The middle 1x4 will be longer or shorter depending on whether it's a tenon or mortise. There are a lot of sites on the net that will show you how to do it.

I've seen what you're talking about, would make that part significantly easier

 

[ryanj1234]

Before I critique anything

No need to couch criticisms, I'm here to get honest feedback. Even if I ignore a suggestion, I'd rather hear it and know I chose to go another way than figure out later I screwed up.

I believe those center four by fours are going to cost you a lot of access.

Yeah, @Aaron_W mentioned that. Looks absolutely solid but it's probably a bit overkill. I'm going to redo with 2x4s in their place, see if that still passes the eye test.

One other thought from this last drawing- Just thoughts, and they're somewhat contradictory to each other

I'm still wavering about what I'm going to do for the top, but given the size of the lathe am I over complicating here? I mean, would just having a bunch of 2x4s like in the first drawing with a really solid top be plenty?

I've also got enough 2x6s sitting in the garage I could cover the top with those (not butcher block style, but laying flat). Maybe a piece of ply on top to make sure it's flat?

 

[ARC-170]

I put my lathe (same as yours) in a tray I made that is mounted on top of a piece of 16Ga steel sheet, on top of 2 pieces of 3/4" plywood screwed and glued together that was screwed to a metal frame I made out of 22 Ga sheet metal "U" channel that is mounted on horizontal 4x4's mounted on vertical 4x4's bolted to the ground. The top is also bolted to the wall.

Here's a photo looking up at it from the floor. Note how the top, horizontal 4x4's rest on top of the vertical ones. I did not rely on fasteners to carry the weight. I used 1/2" MDF as a façade to match the other garage cabinets.


Here's a picture of the lathe on the bench:


I used a metal top to keep the oil off the wood. It wipes up easily. I'm sure some gets down in the wood thru the holes I used to mount the lathe.

It is solid. Unless you are making parts for NASA, you will be fine.

I built my table around the toolboxes I use to store everything. Much easier than building drawers.

 

[Jake M]

No need to couch criticisms, I'm here to get honest feedback. Even if I ignore a suggestion, I'd rather hear it and know I chose to go another way than figure out later I screwed up.

Not "couching", just qualifying, so we're on the same page that "necessary" things have come and gone.

Yeah, @Aaron_W mentioned that. Looks absolutely solid but it's probably a bit overkill. I'm going to redo with 2x4s in their place, see if that still passes the eye test.

Within reason, given the product and the use.... I do think that is a big part of the whole thing. You are going to have to look at it for some time to come. It's cool if it can bring a smile to your face now and then.

I'm still wavering about what I'm going to do for the top, but given the size of the lathe am I over complicating here? I mean, would just having a bunch of 2x4s like in the first drawing with a really solid top be plenty?

Yes, you are over complicating things, and so am I. In a good way though. Given the range of size I'm envisioning your bench, two layers of CDX glued and screwed would get the job done for sure, without any support beyond the perimiter. On the other hand, cosmetically speaking, that's a big chunk of "top" to bury and still look good. But it's already lead me to another on the spot idea for mine.....

I've also got enough 2x6s sitting in the garage I could cover the top with those (not butcher block style, but laying flat). Maybe a piece of ply on top to make sure it's flat?

That would put the top in a grain/layout situation that is prone to moving on you with seasonal conditions. I wouldn't probably go that route myself. I'm kind of sold on plywood for that portion. As far as being adequate- Sure it would be. My lathe currently sits on the bench it came on, which is NOT AT ALL rigid, and the top is made out of veneered particle board " boards", which while they don't swell or move seasonally, they are as strong as a moderately hard cheese. But it's quite adequate.

I threw up a picture in my introduction thread that I'll link to. I love the idea that the bench and the lathe have some history, and the story of a craftsman in a presumably humble environment, but I have made that decision to update the bench "eventually". The barrel stove is gonna go, because while they're not "illegal" here, I still don't trust 'em. I'm tired of changing the barrel every two years, a pellet stove is gonna go there, ish. Two of the shelf units on the far wall are going to go away, as the broken things upon them get moved along, the remaining shelves are going to move to the left, and that corner will be huge, and is is where the lathe must go. A floor drill press to the lathe's left It's still in the middle of the floor, and it just straight up takes too much room. I can reduce the depth of the bench by 11 inches, increase it's length by four inches or so, and the small drill press (Useless, damaged, and fully out of square, but still useful, quick, and handy), will move around to the front of the bench, at the tailstock end of the laithe. So simple on paper, but so far to go.....

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/hello-from-vermont.97160/post-910766

So this idea that just hit me- Probably not new at all, but it just hit me nonetheless. I havn't even sketched on scrap paper yet, or even considered much how the legs would go together, but if the top surface were a rectangle of 2X6, and inside of that it was sistered with a 2X4, lowered down, the plywood top could be "inset" such that there was actual wood all the way around the visible space. No plywood edges to look at or to chip. Heck, there's probably going to be enough waste from the plywood requred, one could (probably) get enough strips out of the leftovers to replace the two by fours with strips of the same plywood to make the "pocket".... Hmmmm.... It'd give a nicer edge, but it does add another degree to the measurement and construction. And I'd have to figure out how that would work when attaching the legs..... Still just a thought for now, but I think it'd be a good look. Heck, the sides could be left a sixteenth or an eighth proud, that'd prevent stuff from rolling off. Good grief..... I am so far ahead of myself it's not even funny, as I highly doubt I'll actually even get to it this summer..... I am going to (In fact I just did) stick that notion in the notepad I use to sketch out ideas that might actually happen... Or not. Most things in that book don't actually happen. But Number 2 pencils are a lot cheaper than raw materials, so I keep drawing things anyway.

 

[tq60]

Some other comments...

4x4 in the middle, NOT needed.

The weight is where the lathe feet are, the ends.

2x4 can hold up your house, so consider them good enough.

For earthquake support, houses have plywood over the wall studs to make it stronger.

This may not be your last lathe, a better one always comes along later.

Melamine is a great material, very slippery, not much sticks to it and easy to clean.

Roll away tool chests are not expensive, have good drawers, and are easy to get instead of making them.

Combining all of the above, some suggestions.

If you have a roll away type tool box, start there.

That must fit under the bench.

Have 2, better.

We made a bench that used a steel bottom frame with adjustable feet, it WAS a display unit.

Had some tool chests and boxes, placed them on the unit.

We had some plywood that we used as vertical walls to build pockets around them.

Added a melamine top.

It had on top the lathe on one side and hf mill on the other.

Strong as house.

You can make a simple 2x4 frame to support the CORNERS of the table top.

From there, place a couple of cross members where the lathe feet go.

Then, lay down the top.

The lathe does not weigh that much, and does not have enough power delivery to make a need to have a lot of extra support.

PROPERLY cut wood, with good glue and good screws properly used will make a table that can hold up your car.

The center only needs to be there to support things like drawers. But again, tool boxes are faster than making drawers.

Our unit above has drawer that a tool box sits on so it can be pulled out to open the top.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Aaron_W]

The middle 4x4s definitely felt a bit much, I may see what 2x4s look like in their place.

You have any pictures of your benches? I'm curious to see some other designs, especially if you got 2x6s on the top

I can get one, but it is very close to your drawing except for the center legs. 4x4s only in the corners as the upright support.
Top section is basically as you have shown, but no 4x4 embedded in the center and 2x6 instead of 2x4. Top is a sheet of plywood, with two more 1/2" sheets of MDF over the plywood, all of this sitting on top of the 2x6 frame.

Similar arrangement on the bottom, but 2x4 instead of 2x6, and only 2 2x4s giving cross support and boxing in the legs. I put a sheet of plywood on the bottom to even out the footprint as the floor is a little uneven.

My bench is 2 feet deep by 4 feet long, which I assume is similar size to what you plan to build.

The lathe I built this bench for is a very stout, 1930s vintage 8-1/2 x 21" with a weight around 250lbs, so the bench is much more robust than it really has to be. Very solid, I could probably support my truck with this bench.

 

[Melonie]

I only looked for desks. There were numerous chairs and small desks among them. The top was typically only 60 long on vintage desks that were still functional. If your lathe requires one, you should create a more extended top. The headstock end of your lathe carries the majority of the weight. It's light at the tailstock end. As a result, the tailstock only requires a little construction. I have utilized Stihl equipment to make benches and cut wood smoothly. For a while, I used a cadenza as my lathe's bench. I had to put bricks under the legs to make it tall enough. Also, I screwed the top of my last bench onto the cadenza. On my bench, drawers are something I genuinely appreciate.