Becoming hobby machinist in the near future.

David, what would be a good target for backlash on the PM-833T/TV axes? I can live with mine right now, but will someday take off the table to try to minimize backlash as much as possible.
 
Next is the Z power feed. The bracket that they sent for the endstops is different than they instructions show (the bracket in the manual has a predrilled hole 90 degrees to the bracket, mine does not), and since the DRO is mounted where they show the Z endstop bracket I will need to figure out where to put it.
I had the same issue.... I installed the Z axis limit stops on the right side of my mill since the left side seemed like the most sensible place to put the DRO scale. See the following link for pictures:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/magxact-dro-for-pm-833t.91592/post-837681

Just remember that you will need to flip the switches inside the limit stop switch housing so it operates on the right side on the machine (given it is flipped upside down when installed on the right hand side).
 
For peace of mind I went ahead and checked those three bolts on the lead screw nut. I just moved the table out of the way so I could easily reach the bolt heads. I supported it on the other end with a roller support. Mine were all tight already. Since it was easy access I went ahead and tightened the nut slightly to reduce back lash in the X axis. I was also able to get a long hex wrench with a ball on the end down inside to adjust the Y axis nut as well. It was a little difficult but doable.
 

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I had the same issue.... I installed the Z axis limit stops on the right side of my mill since the left side seemed like the most sensible place to put the DRO scale. See the following link for pictures:

https://www.hobby-machinist.com/threads/magxact-dro-for-pm-833t.91592/post-837681

Just remember that you will need to flip the switches inside the limit stop switch housing so it operates on the right side on the machine (given it is flipped upside down when installed on the right hand side).
Thanks, I was worried that there would not be enough space on the right since the handle it in the way. I was thinking about installing them on the left with a rise block so the switches would essentially mount to the same bracket the DRO uses...
 
For peace of mind I went ahead and checked those three bolts on the lead screw nut. I just moved the table out of the way so I could easily reach the bolt heads. I supported it on the other end with a roller support. Mine were all tight already. Since it was easy access I went ahead and tightened the nut slightly to reduce back lash in the X axis. I was also able to get a long hex wrench with a ball on the end down inside to adjust the Y axis nut as well. It was a little difficult but doable.
Nice, and I see you used the power feed clamps too. The response I got from QMT on it was that it was not intended for this model, but if it works that it should be fine to use (they were not certain it would mesh the gears but it does).
 
Well I made some chips with the mill this evening. Determined in the process I mounted the vice in the wrong place (back to front) so I was cutting with the bed in the full forward position to reach the back face. Darn it I had that vise dialed in less than 5 tenths (0.0005") over the face of the vise. Well its a learning lesson right...

Anyways I guess I need to get a metal band saw to cut quicker, but I used the mill to give me practice, cutting a 1.5 square bar to the size I want for the bracket (after facing the top as practice) I made lots of small cuts conventional milling with a 1/2" two fluted endmill. Cutting front to back 0.02 wider than I intended then back to front to dimension. I varied the depth of cut experimenting to see how the machine handled the cuts. I found that I had not seated the endmill deep enough at first but fixed that after a few cuts. Cutting 0.1" seemed rough, 0.05" went much more smoothly, and 0.025" seemed like cutting butter (adjusting feed speeds by the feel of the machine). The spindle never slowed down, but The machine did vibrate during the more aggressive cuts. I know part of that was the I was cutting further away from the vise than I should have been, primarily because heck it was my first time using the machine and I really did not want to run into the vise.

On thing I have to say is I LOVE how repeatable the mill is compared to my wood working tools. Being able to stop the mill because of an electrical storm, re-position the endmill, and still beable to trust the tools position is something I could never do with my woodworking tools...
 
On thing I have to say is I LOVE how repeatable the mill is compared to my wood working tools.
Heh. I can relate to this statement. One of my reasons for getting the mill is to drill more accurately and have less run out. A terrible thought, but I think I want a Bridgeport/similar full-size knee mill. Though I find not having a metal lathe limiting, so that will be next.
 
Heh. I can relate to this statement. One of my reasons for getting the mill is to drill more accurately and have less run out. A terrible thought, but I think I want a Bridgeport/similar full-size knee mill. Though I find not having a metal lathe limiting, so that will be next.
I also ordered a Metal Lathe (PM1340GT) which arrived in NYC this morning at 0737 (Boat). Next it goes to QMP/PM and then supposedly I am number 3 on the list for that shipment, they expect the shipment late in April (so getting from Tiwan to NYC takes about the same time as from NYC to PA. Then it will have to make it's way across the USA to Washington and I am a bit scared about getting that beast installed (yes I know it is a small mill compared to many others, but to me it will be the biggest piece of equipment I will have every owned). I thought I needed the mill first, but after ordering them I realized the lathe has so much more potential. Although I am glad I got the mill first because it let me practice moving a big piece of equipment before getting a big awkward machine.
 
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