Becoming hobby machinist in the near future.

Here is the Spindle with the drawbar installed. The tool to hold the drawbar is behind the spindle.

This only issue I see is the the drawbar corners must mesh with the "flutes" on the spindle or you cannot remove the tool :)

I think shaving down the corners on the drawbar head a little would solve that issue.

The tool is quite beefy/heavy/solid and fits the spindle tight but still slides in place easily (no lash to speak of).

20210325_163351 copy.jpg


Not I did not use the chain to move the mill, this pic was taken right after my friend removed the sling/strap. Still need to finish installation. Now that I have the mill on the stand I am sure to have LOTS of stupid questions in the future!

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That longer splined end of the spindle looks like a much better solution to me than what I have seen in other versions of the 833. That said, the interference of the drawbar hex corners with the spline wrench would drive me crazy. Instead of that spline wrench, you might find that a certain size 12-point box-end wrench will fit the splines and still give clearance past the hex-head.

If you plan on implementing a power drawbar, you might live with it until the PDB project pops to the top of the list. If you go for the Maxi Torque-Rite PDB, it comes with a custom new drawbar to fit your machine.

But instead of beavering off the corners of the hex cap, I would be inclined to bring the entire hex-head down in size by milling off all six sides in an ER40 Hex collet block. Kinda hard to do without a second drawbar, but you can buy replacement drawbars easy enough - or make your own. You have to be precise in picking a replacement drawbar on length, but the R8 end is threaded 7/16-20. Here are a few, or PM may have one specific to the 833.

This is another alternative - used in place of the spline wrench. I made a slightly more robust version of this for my RF-45. They are available on eBay here. It's basically a spring-loaded plunger that you push on to engage with one of the splines and it locks the spindle. When you let go, it springs back automatically. Less likely you'll forget and leave a spline wrench on the spindle with this kind of setup and it's easily installed and works with existing unmodified drawbar.

screenshot_4903.jpg
 
Aukai said:
DO NOT take your hand off of that wrench until it is sitting on the bench before turning it on. It happened to a friend:oops:
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Yes I understand. Currently the machine is still being assembled, and has not plug even mounted to it so I decided to take the quick photo so people could see the tool and the new spindle in one shot. I make it a habit to never work on a machine (maintenance that is) unless it is unplugged, and I won't plug it in until it has been sanitized of tools.
 
davidpbest said:
That longer splined end of the spindle looks like a much better solution to me than what I have seen in other versions of the 833. That said, the interference of the drawbar hex corners with the spline wrench would drive me crazy. Instead of that spline wrench, you might find that a certain size 12-point box-end wrench will fit the splines and still give clearance past the hex-head.

If you plan on implementing a power drawbar, you might live with it until the PDB project pops to the top of the list. If you go for the Maxi Torque-Rite PDB, it comes with a custom new drawbar to fit your machine.

But instead of beavering off the corners of the hex cap, I would be inclined to bring the entire hex-head down in size by milling off all six sides in an ER40 Hex collet block. Kinda hard to do without a second drawbar, but you can buy replacement drawbars easy enough - or make your own. You have to be precise in picking a replacement drawbar on length, but the R8 end is threaded 7/16-20. Here are a few, or PM may have one specific to the 833.

This is another alternative - used in place of the spline wrench. I made a slightly more robust version of this for my RF-45. They are available on eBay here. It's basically a spring-loaded plunger that you push on to engage with one of the splines and it locks the spindle. When you let go, it springs back automatically. Less likely you'll forget and leave a spline wrench on the spindle with this kind of setup and it's easily installed and works with existing unmodified drawbar.

View attachment 360634
Click to expand...
Since I hope to add a power drawbar at some point I think I will learn to live with it for now. I have a lot of learning to do in the meantime so I am not nearly as concerned about speed of tool changes.
 
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