Anyone else get carried away with 3d printed tool storage?

[great white]

Tool holder rack is PETG.

Those are old pics, I have built more since. That's ABS.

Also a couple additions to the machines themselves. Got tired of needing the wrench to tighten and loosen the mill drawbar so:

Printed it off (petg), machined the interior bore to a slightly loose slip fit, melted an appropriate sized twelve point socket into the plastic and now I can drop the handle on the mill and turn it easily to loosen/tighten the draw bar.

Decided to print a few gears for the lathe and the mill:

Those are for the atlas 10F (ABS), but I printed off a couple of the "infamous" plastic gears that are in the mill head (also in ABS). Nice to have spares and to be able to print one off if I ever need it. Much better than waiting days to weeks to get a replacement.

And yes, 3d printing is a great big rabbit hole. Once you start, it sucks you all the way in........and there's literally no bottom. Seems like there's always a better hot end, filament feed method, or some other "upgrade" you'll think you just can't live without. Then there's the endless miles and miles of filament you'll need to run through it to make whatever it is you want to make.

Bottomless pit it is.....

 

[Wheat.Millington]

This thread is great. I've just bought my first 3d printer, the Ender 3 v2. Literally finished building it last night and printed the cat model that came with it. Looking forward to more tinkering, I've already ordered a handful of upgrades (bed springs, extruder, etc, auto-bed-leveling).

 

[Ken226]

I've been working on a pegboard holder for my Edge Technology Pro-Tram. The Pro t
Tram is a cool looking gadget and would look better on my pegboard than in a drawer.

Anyone use a Pro-Tram? Keep it tucked away in a drawer or on display?

I'm thinking of designing it around these auto body plastic fasteners. They work good for anchoring things to pegboards holes:

uxcell 100pcs Universal 6.3mm Hole Plastic Black Rivets Fastener Fender Bumper Push Pin Clips for Car Vehicle https://a.co/d/gOQKZ2S

 

[7milesup]

I've been working on a pegboard holder for my Edge Technology Pro-Tram. It's a cool looking gadget and would look better on my pegboard than in a drawer.

Anyone use a Pro-Tram? Keep it tucked away in a drawer or on display?

I'm thinking of designing it around these auto body plastic fasteners. They work good for anchoring things to pegboards holes:

uxcell 100pcs Universal 6.3mm Hole Plastic Black Rivets Fastener Fender Bumper Push Pin Clips for Car Vehicle https://a.co/d/gOQKZ2S

I don't use pegboards at all in my shop. I literally took them all out and burned them. It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off. One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from www.thingiverse.com but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.

 

[Ken226]

I don't use pegboards at all in my shop. I literally took them all out and burned them. It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off. One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from www.thingiverse.com but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.

Oddly I've never had anything fall off in 10+ years. It may be the difference in design though.

Mine are steel wall-control brand pegboards. It has the 1/4" holes like most pegboards, but I only use those with the screw type anchors listed above.

All of my hooks mount In the vertical slots and lock in pretty good.

As tough as they can be to remove when I intend to move one, I cant imagine a way they could fall out.







Even the magnetic indicator holders, while not as secure as the hooks, hang on tight enough to have never moved.


I have one of the fiberboard home-depot type begboards on a workbench, and I definitely see your point on that one. It sucks pretty bad.
I'd replace it with the steel wall-control panels, but the space available doesnt match up to the wall control panel sizes.

 

[Ken226]

I'll print one of these tomorrow and see if it needs any adjustments to fit.




The 1/2 inch shaft on the Pro-Tram should snap into this socket securely enough to prevent it from ever falling out




And the body will sit behind this raised shelf.




To remove, itll have to be lifted over the shelf, then pulled free from the clip/socket.

 

[7milesup]

@Ken226 That is an awesome design. Your "pegboard" is at a whole different level than the craptastic stuff I had. Yours is a McLaren while mine was Yugo. I have never seen that type of system.
My reply above had some tongue-in-cheek slant to it.

 

[great white]

This thread is great. I've just bought my first 3d printer, the Ender 3 v2. Literally finished building it last night and printed the cat model that came with it. Looking forward to more tinkering, I've already ordered a handful of upgrades (bed springs, extruder, etc, auto-bed-leveling).

If you are adding a touch sensor (ie: bltouch, etc) consider getting rid of the bed springs. I ditched them on my CR10 V3 as they would allow too much movement for me and they would routinely loose their adjustment. That was with the "upgraded" springs. I printed out solid mounts, trued the bed up and now it never comes out of adjustment. the BLtouch maps the surface so once the z offset is set, perfect prints every time.

I also run a Volcano hot end as I found the stock end could barely keep up with a 0.4 nozzle. Now it can run up to a 1.2 nozzle without skipping a beat.

A direct extruder is also highly recommended. I run E3d's titan extruder. I got tired of the bowden tube eventually pushing it's way out of the clamp and went with the titan. No more filament problems.

Lastly, I run a custom version of marlin. Not that you can't get by with what is provided by creality (it's an older version of marlin), but there are so many more features in newer marlin builds that make printing soo much easier. The custo firmware I use is from a facebook group called nick's firmware, or something similar to that. It all used to be free downloads, but I've noticed lately he is transfering a lot of stuff to "patreon".

Good luck and have fun.

 

[great white]

I don't use pegboards at all in my shop. I literally took them all out and burned them. It is pretty much guaranteed that whatever is on that pegboard is eventually going to fall off. One of my coworkers just got done printing a "basket" he downloaded from www.thingiverse.com but apparently, it already broke and fell off of the pegboard. It may have been a faulty design, and I shouldn't blame the pegboard, but the pegboard should be burned anyhow. I don't like pegboards.

Breakage is often accountable to a couple things. One is the layer adhesion, which has a lot to do with your settings and how the machine itself is set up. The other is orientation of the print. IF you have something sticking out (like a pegboard thing) you wnt to be sure to print it so the layers are not parallel to the load path or the print can split at the layers. you want to arrange the print so that the object is printed perpendicular to the load path. then, it has to break the whole object to fail instead of cracking off a pin that's comprised of a stack of layers, like you would stack dimes.

3d Printing is like machining. You can't just buy the equipment and go at it and expect good results. You have to learn a boat load of techniques and processes....

 

[Ken226]

Unfortunately, the dimensions were a bit too tight in a few spots. Given the amount of force needed to pop it in/out of the holder, the plastic rivets that will attach it to the pegboard wouldn't last long.





I adjusted the model and have another one running now.