2014 POTD Thread Archive

[davidh]

finally finish a bunch of battery replacement slugs for the igaging and Accuremot display heads. one of these is required for each display and wired to the black box that has two double "a" batterys in it, and a POWER SWITCH that's build in the box. almost a "plug and play" improvement. . . . if you forget to shut it off, there is enough battery reserve to last a long time. . . . next will be the led's to illuminate the displays, connected to the same battery box.

 

[churchjw]

What a great idea. Can you post more on how you did them?

Jeff

finally finish a bunch of battery replacement slugs for the igaging and Accuremot display heads. one of these is required for each display and wired to the black box that has two double "a" batterys in it, and a POWER SWITCH that's build in the box. almost a "plug and play" improvement. . . . if you forget to shut it off, there is enough battery reserve to last a long time. . . . next will be the led's to illuminate the displays, connected to the same battery box.
View attachment 70450View attachment 70451

 

[brasssmanget]

OK You guys finally motivated me to do the handle thing on my press too.


Nothing much different about it from all the others, so I won't spend time elaborating. :thumbzup:

 

[Flammable_Solid]

I finally installed the belt drive kit I purchased off Ebay after cleaning up a couple of burrs:



Note the application of Tim's Homemade Halfhindpartsed Bolt Circle Spacers, as the motor pulley shaft is too long and they bolt circle for the existing motor mount doesn't line up.

So, I grabbed a piece of 6061 that I had and laid out a matching spacer:



I put it in the vise, and was going to do my usual "bore a big hole with a forstner bit", but 6061 is a bit tougher and the speed on the belt drive is a lot higher, so I only used it to check my tramming job:



Now to bore a big enough center hole to use my 3 jaw on the rotary table….

 

[drs23]

"Emergency/Field Expedient" 8mm reamer ...

A timing belt pulley I'd ordered from McMaster-Carr arrived while I was out on the town today. The bore diameter of the aluminum hub was 5/16" and I needed to machine it to fit an 8mm (.315") shaft. Didn't have an 8mm bit or reamer, and it was way too late to go shopping, so I roamed the shop looking for alternatives. An "O" bit is close to 8mm, but test boring a piece of scrap aluminum rod gave a pretty sloppy fit on the shaft. Probably time to go for a boring bar.

But then I noticed that the #115 "High Speed Cutter" in my Dremel set looked about right.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=115
Calipers said it was right around .315" diameter, so I set it up in the lathe's tailstock chuck and gave the part a spin. WOW! The pulley is now a very nice sliding fit on the shaft, with no discernable wobble or slop.

Cautionary note - Dremel doesn't specify the diameters of their tools, so there's no guarantee that the one you buy will be right on 8mm like mine is ... but it's worth a shot, for very little money.

View attachment 70438

Your IGauging displays don't get all mucked up with oil in that location. I know I wouldn't be able to read them a few seconds after I start a job. I see you're turning plastic though. Is that your main material you use?

 

[woodguy]

I made a pattern half for a flywheel.

 

[drs23]

I made a pattern half for a flywheel.

That looks BA!

 

[hman]

Your IGauging displays don't get all mucked up with oil in that location. I know I wouldn't be able to read them a few seconds after I start a job. I see you're turning plastic though. Is that your main material you use?

I was actually machining the aluminum hub/sleeve of the otherwise plastic pulley. Used just a bit of WD-40 on the cutter (note the squeeze bottle on the headstock). I machine ferrous metals, aluminum, plastics, even the occasional chunk of wood.


Haven't had too much problem with the displays. They seldom get splattered, possibly because they are a couple inches to the right of the cutting edge, as well as behind the workpiece. I chose that location to minimize flexing/stretching the wires between the read heads and display heads. Both read heads are located on the carriage. The mount I used for the displays (a piece of sheet steel bolted to the back of the slide) is the best compromise I was able to come up with.

 

[markknx]

View attachment 70285Mounted my 4 inch chuck into my 12 inch 4 jaw. Works like a charm. I made some double shoulder bolts out of 1/2 inch stock. The 12 inch will only close down to about 5/8 inch, so this is my solution for running small parts on an 18 inch lathe.

This is also a handy way to do repeat off set parts and only have to set the off set once.

 

[churchjw]

I like the way you mounted your DRO. Can you post some more pics of that. Especially the cross slide part.

Jeff

I was actually machining the aluminum hub/sleeve of the otherwise plastic pulley. Used just a bit of WD-40 on the cutter (note the squeeze bottle on the headstock). I machine ferrous metals, aluminum, plastics, even the occasional chunk of wood.


Haven't had too much problem with the displays. They seldom get splattered, possibly because they are a couple inches to the right of the cutting edge, as well as behind the workpiece. I chose that location to minimize flexing/stretching the wires between the read heads and display heads. Both read heads are located on the carriage. The mount I used for the displays (a piece of sheet steel bolted to the back of the slide) is the best compromise I was able to come up with.


View attachment 70518