G4000 ELS Upgrade

Notice the automatic carriage stop (electronic braking) at the preset position at the end of the thread. this is where the microswitch gets triggered by the saddle. This causes a relay (K5) to latch applying the brake and latching it on. At this point, I back off the cross-slide put the spindle in reverse, and depress the reset button to unlatch the relay. After the carriage reverses past the thread starting point, I throw stop, set the cross-slide back to zero, increase the compound as desired and throw the spindle in forward again to take another, deeper cut. I do not need to disengage the half-nuts during threading.

 
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Thank You so much for taking the time to simply show and describe how this is completed. Clough42 puts out some excellent videos and info, but once he starts describing a process, he quickly starts talking over my old man head. Your flow chart diagram, ‘Finially’ gives a clear description of where the TI launch board fits into all this. His instructions just keep telling me I need it, but not really a where or why if I’m buying his control board. And that TI board seems to be a tricky find.
IT MAKES SENSE NOW !
Did you you ever give any thought to connecting the ELS, to the shaft that in the Quick Change Gear Box ? Or was it just to tight to hide the servo/stepper in there?
This whole project solves putting in a reverse threading gear and more importantly, the adjustable lever for the large metric/imperial change gears is always kicking free on mine under any tension and kicks my gears free.

Coincidentally, I just found your YouTube videos a little earlier and saved them into my ELS YouTube folder. I can only dream of completing this enjoying the better surface finishes on my little lathe. Thank you again for documenting this, I will start deciding on what to order, and collect the parts and pieces.
now that you have some hrs on it, is this stepper motor proving adequate or do you feel another size would be better? I have the same lathe, just a Canadian name instead of Grizzly.
 
I am happy with this servo motor / drive combination. It's got all the power needed and then some.
I found it was too much of a hassle connecting the ELS, to the shaft in the Quick Change Gear Box and i'm comfortable with it out front. especially with my plasma-cut belt guard.
Overall this a wonderful modification to the lathe, you won't regret it.
 
Guard looks great, I can pretty much do the same, whether it’s with my manual plasma or just the grinder.
Thanks again for the advice and quick replies, they attest to your professionalism !
Only reason I asked, was wondering about getting that chunk of gears out of the loop. They probably don’t cause much difference in noise or finish. I know the other multiple gears running together make quite a racket.
 
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Cletus said:
Electronics Interconnections:

github.com

Stuff You'll Need

Lathe electronic leadscrew controller. Contribute to clough42/electronic-leadscrew development by creating an account on GitHub.
github.com github.com

View attachment 382888
Click to expand...
Thank you a ton for this little link and parts diagram from Clough42. Anytime I searched for info on this project, I got a link to the GitHub software page for the project. From there, on my tablet, it’s near impossible to navigate away and get real info.
This simple post made it all so clear and simple to understand for me.
 
Cletus said:
What's done thus far:
1) Viewed the entire series of @clough42 videos relative to this mod.

2) Determined the G4000 has a different Spindle to Idler ratio (1:2) than James' lathe, so I'm going with 80T and 40T GT2 pulleys to couple the idler to the encoder.

3) Decided on a NEMA 24 Servo Motor / Driver combo and ordered it along with the Omron encoder.

Amazon.com: WSDMAVIS 1 Pcs Rotary Encoder E6B2 CWZ6C E6B2-CWZ6C 1024P/R DC 5-24V for OMRON : Industrial & Scientific

Buy WSDMAVIS 1 Pcs Rotary Encoder E6B2 CWZ6C E6B2-CWZ6C 1024P/R DC 5-24V for OMRON: Switch Encoders - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
www.amazon.com

4) Opting to build my own electronics enclosure from 16gauge CNC plasma-cut sheet.


Pulleys and Belts:


BZ 3D 40T GT2 Timing Pulley Bore 5mm 40 Teeth Synchronous Wheel Aluminum for Width 6mm 3D Printer Parts(Pack of 4pcs) (40Teeth Bore 5mm): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

BZ 3D 40T GT2 Timing Pulley Bore 5mm 40 Teeth Synchronous Wheel Aluminum for Width 6mm 3D Printer Parts(Pack of 4pcs) (40Teeth Bore 5mm): Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific
www.amazon.com
The 5mm Bore will have to be re-bored and reamed to 6mm for the encoder shaft.

Amazon.com: Bzocio 5mm Bore GT2 80T Pulley Synchronous Wheel 2GT Timing Belt Pulley 80 Teeth for Voron 2.4 3D Printer 6mm Width Belt : Tools & Home Improvement

Amazon.com: Bzocio 5mm Bore GT2 80T Pulley Synchronous Wheel 2GT Timing Belt Pulley 80 Teeth for Voron 2.4 3D Printer 6mm Width Belt : Tools & Home Improvement
www.amazon.com
This will need to be bored out to mount over the boss on the G4000's 80 tooth idler gear and will be secured to said gear by three 3mm SHCS bolts on the periphery (details to follow).




Power Supplies:

Click to expand...

Hi Cletus - very cool thread here. How did you decide on the spindle to idler ratio? I’m trying to figure out what pulleys I need. Thanks.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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