Two Piece Mill Vise

Thanks, it sort of took shape on the fly. The dimensions were dictated by the angle plate.
The guide rods are socket-head shoulder screws that I had on hand, running in bronze bushings.
The jaws are 1" thick, the fixed jaw is 3 x 7.25, the moving jaw is 2 x 6
Yes, that is a 1/2-10 Acme threaded rod.

I've been thinking about building this and a few things come to mind.

1. I might change the orientation of the jaws so the height is lower. This would make it a lower profile and give it more lateral support. For my smaller mill, I'm thinking 1.25" high and 1.5" wide closer to what This Old Tony did.
2. Is an Acme thread needed? I would love to try and make one, but it looks a little intimidating for the larger sizes. I would tap the hole and cut external thread on my lathe. Is 1/2-10 Acme doable with a tap? It looks like the forces are much higher for Acme threads vs 60 degree threads.
3. Are the guide rods threaded in or pressed in? I was thinking of using drill rod and pressing them into the jaw, but I need an arbor press.
 
I've been thinking about building this and a few things come to mind.

1. I might change the orientation of the jaws so the height is lower. This would make it a lower profile and give it more lateral support. For my smaller mill, I'm thinking 1.25" high and 1.5" wide closer to what This Old Tony did.
2. Is an Acme thread needed? I would love to try and make one, but it looks a little intimidating for the larger sizes. I would tap the hole and cut external thread on my lathe. Is 1/2-10 Acme doable with a tap? It looks like the forces are much higher for Acme threads vs 60 degree threads.
3. Are the guide rods threaded in or pressed in? I was thinking of using drill rod and pressing them into the jaw, but I need an arbor press.

Lower jaws would give more stability. When I was designing, I was thinking of standard (Kurt) height jaws, which was probably not necessary.

I used Acme threaded rod and nut that I bought from McMaster.
The nut was turned round (not full cleanup) then pressed into a flat bottom hole in the jaw. The hole is flat bottom so the nut can't be pushed out under thrust.

The shoulder screws (guide rods) are threaded into the moving jaw.
Unhardened drill rod is no harder than mild steel. Shoulder screws are equivalent to a Grade 8 bolt.
 
While I'm waiting for supplies for the much larger version of this, I decided to make the blondihack's version. It seems pretty solid. I only wish I made the fingers a little thicker. This will be good for thinner material and light cuts.

IMG_5629.jpg

IMG_5625.jpg
 
Thanks, it sort of took shape on the fly. The dimensions were dictated by the angle plate.
The guide rods are socket-head shoulder screws that I had on hand, running in bronze bushings.
The jaws are 1" thick, the fixed jaw is 3 x 7.25, the moving jaw is 2 x 6
Yes, that is a 1/2-10 Acme threaded rod.

Okay, I ready to start on this project. I was wondering if you milled any clearance under the moving jaw so it doesn't rub again the mill table when tightening? Maybe, 5 or 10 thou?

Also, the tricky part for me is aligning the guide rods so they are precise but do not bind. I was thinking of drilling the base piece and movable jaw together. For the guide rods, I'm using 0.375" drill rod and I bought reamers both under sized and over sized. I want to tap the drill rods into the movable jaw. Or, do I need a bushing of some type in the base?

My dimensions are 1.4" wide and 1.2" high for the base and fixed jaw and 1.2" square for the movable jaw.

MillViseAssy.jpg
 
Okay, I ready to start on this project. I was wondering if you milled any clearance under the moving jaw so it doesn't rub again the mill table when tightening? Maybe, 5 or 10 thou?

Also, the tricky part for me is aligning the guide rods so they are precise but do not bind. I was thinking of drilling the base piece and movable jaw together. For the guide rods, I'm using 0.375" drill rod and I bought reamers both under sized and over sized. I want to tap the drill rods into the movable jaw. Or, do I need a bushing of some type in the base?

My dimensions are 1.4" wide and 1.2" high for the base and fixed jaw and 1.2" square for the movable jaw.

I didn't leave any clearance under the moving jaw, I was more concerned about potential jaw tilt than about wear or drag. I would suggest making the guide rod holes with the parts stacked to assure alignment. Press fitting the guide rods in the moving jaw will give better location/alignment than tapped holes. Relying on a tapped hole for precise location is never a good idea. Since you are using drill rod, which is not particularly hard or wear resistant, I would recommend bronze bushings in the base.
 
Hmmm. Okay. I don't have an arbor press, so pressing these in might be a challenge. I might have to get one.

I've never used a bronze bushing. Do they press in? Should it go across the full width (1.4")?
 
Hmmm. Okay. I don't have an arbor press, so pressing these in might be a challenge. I might have to get one.

I've never used a bronze bushing. Do they press in? Should it go across the full width (1.4")?
With a slightly under pilot on the end of the guide pin (and maybe some heat on the jaw) you should be able to drive the pins in. Or perhaps use a vise as a press?

Bronze bushings are designed to press into an on-size hole, then reamed to finish size.
 
What size arbor press would work for this? 2 ton? I think I'll have to get one.
 
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