The Voron kit build thread

[Ken226]

Fantastic work. It looks great.

I gather from the calibration cube on your build plate that it's up and running as well?

On mine, i only ever use the top handles to roll it back onto the rollback skids when I need access to the underside.

My Voron 2.4 is up to 1400 hours. It's running right now, printing some custom wall mounts for some of my DeWalt battery tools.

 

[AlanB]

Thanks. Yes, up and running. Haven't done any tuning yet. Printing pretty well with default settings.

Easiest to remove sides and grab the gantry rails to lift/move this 250 size printer. I use gloves to keep my fingerprints off the linear rails when lifting it like that. Fixed gantry makes a good handle, just about the right spot.

What types of plastic do you mostly print? I've been moving away from PLA to PETG on the MK4 and XL, the Trident may be mostly an ABS printing machine.

The Trident is printing it's first plate of ABS parts now, a set for the Klicky probe:

 

[Ken226]

What types of plastic do you mostly print? I've been moving away from PLA to PETG on the MK4 and XL, the Trident may be mostly an ABS printing machine.

I've been mostly printing PLA, but occasionally using ABS.

I enjoy using PLA when I can, because it sticks to the bed so easily, and I can design without thinking about warpage.

With ABS, I have to design with ABS in mind, and pay alot of attention to the build plate. I pretty much have to use a different build plate and z offset for ABS. It seems to never stick on a bed that's been used with PLA.

 

[AlanB]

PETG is a nice intermediary. More temperature resistance than PLA, a bit more flexible and tough. Easy to print with little warpage.

 

[AlanB]

Lately I have heard from several reputable sources that Prusa makes the best build surfaces. I have found that their fine textured "Satin" surface works extremely well for PLA, PETG, ABS and with a bit of glue stick - TPU. Unfortunately they don't make a 300 size plate. They do make a 250x210 size which is usable for the 250 Trident. On the Trident I've been using the supplied LDO plate on the Textured side. It has worked for PETG and ABS which is all I've tried on the Voron thus far.

One of my first ABS prints, the Klicky Probe: (I tried KlickyNG first but it didn't go together well, too many tiny features that didn't render precisely enough):

 

[AlanB]

Have been working on the Railcore lately. Today the Klicky PCB kit came so I put that together. It looks excellent. I plan to put that on the Voron Trident soon. It looks better than the printed Klicky or the KlickyNG.

 

[AlanB]

Not a Voron, sorry. The "New" Railcore's first print. One of the best Benchy's I've seen.

 

[Ken226]

Very cool. it did a great job on that benchy.

That's an interesting build plate.

 

[AlanB]

BuildTak included that in the order I made a few years ago, probably a limited edition. Unfortunately I didn't manage to install it without some small bubbles.

I made some measurements and it looks like there is plenty of clearance so I could use a Prusa XL build plate on this Railcore II 300XL, those are powder deposited on metal, much tougher and easier than dealing with the sticky back surface stickers. It would not increase the build area, but many say Prusa flex plates are among if not the best.

I really like the Vorons, but this Railcore is built like a tank, almost all metal. There were a few printed parts but I replaced most of them with metal upgrades. With electronics and motors outside the build volume they say it can go to about 100C with an enclosure, which is more than the Voron can realistically stand.

It is a more difficult build than the Voron kits, for certain. Even though this was a kit, it is a bit less polished. They are reorganizing and growing the design team so we'll probably see new Railcore models in the future. These took off a bit ahead of the Vorons, but didn't maintain their momentum with new models. It has a good community but much smaller than the Voron world.

It is interesting running RepRap firmware on a Duet. First time I have done that. Some convert their Railcores to Klipper, but many stay with the RepRap code.

 

[AlanB]

My son has an Artillery X1. It has been a decent printer but it has some issues, for example they don't allow storing changes to the eeprom. One can jailbreak it and install a newer Marlin, but mostly people have moved on to the X2 or other printers, most X1 stuff I find is very old. We could move it to Klipper but I'm thinking that perhaps it is time to move him to a Voron, perhaps a V2.4 350. The X1 has a 300x300x400 build volume, very tall but how often does one really go that tall? Especially on a bed slinger, seems like acceleration would reduce print quality and the filament jerk on the tool head at the top of the gantry would be substantial. Anyway a Voron V2.4 350 would be interesting to build (and lots of exercise).