The Voron kit build thread

[Ken226]

Thanks for the kind offer. I used the features of Prusa Slicer to subtract a cutout shape, reprinted and it drops in now. I gave it a bit more clearance than was needed to reduce the chance of a third print. I haven't done the complete assembly yet but it looks good so far. Apparently they use double sided sticky foam to put these together and they just didn't get the cables tight on this unit at final assembly. I'll have to find some proper screws and see about installing it fully to be sure.

This is a BTT Pi TFT43 V2.0 that came with the LDO Voron Trident 250 kit so it is not very old. There are four flat cables across the bottom, the center and left ones are very tight, but the two on the right end for the touch screen are the ones that stick out about 2mm. It looks like the glass on mine is slightly offset upward as well so it forces the display frame downward toward these cables and reduces what little clearance there otherwise should be.

Great. I'm glad to see that you got it sorted out.

Prusa Slicer has been great for me. I just recently discovered that I can link my printer to it, making it a one-click thing to upload and start a print.

I'm hearing that 2.6 will become the official release any day now. They seem to have the bugs worked out.

 

[AlanB]

I've been using the direct to printer with Octoprint for some time, and the feature also works with the new Prusa MK4 firmware directly. It makes printing a bit easier, especially if the printer is trustworthy so you can fire and forget. They're up to the second 2.6.0 slicer beta and it is looking very good. The organic supports just about fall off the print, this is so much easier than previously.

I just sent an order on an assortment of M2.5 screws, I have a few but none that really work for this and I need a better assortment in that size anyway. So in a day or two I'll be able to mount the display. I might look through and find something in the Railcore or Voron hardware also, haven't really checked everywhere yet. The LDO kit probably includes something for this since they supplied the display. Made a search, but none in the Trident parts, this kit has mostly M3 and larger, very little smaller. The display came with some screws that are too short. So we wait.

 

[Ken226]

I've been using the direct to printer with Octoprint for some time, and the feature also works with the new Prusa MK4 firmware directly. It makes printing a bit easier, especially if the printer is trustworthy so you can fire and forget. They're up to the second 2.6.0 slicer beta and it is looking very good. The organic supports just about fall off the print, this is so much easier than previouly.

I just sent an order on an assortment of M2.5 screws, I have a few but none that really work for this and I need a better assortment in that size anyway. So in a day or two I'll be able to mount the display. I might look through and find something in the Railcore or Voron hardware also, haven't really checked everywhere yet. The LDO kit probably includes something for this since they supplied the display. Not in the Trident parts, this kit has mostly M3 and larger, very little smaller. The display came with some screws that are too short. So we wait.

View attachment 448714
View attachment 448715

That came out really good.

It would probably be pretty easy to print a little filler piece to fit into that opening.

 

[AlanB]

True. That's a pretty close view, at scale it's pretty hard to notice. It could have been about half the volume it is, too, maybe even less as those cables are flexible so they can stick out or they can be held closer if they have room to expand parallel to the edge. This is PLA perhaps later I'll redo it in PETG and do a better job. I gave it 2.5mm where 1mm might have been enough. If the glass wasn't also crooked it probably would have been fine. Just going for function at the moment.

One problem is when I'm working on the printer electronics the display is upside down if mounted, so it is better loose for that process. But when I'm flipping the printer to work on something other than electronics the display really needs to be mounted. I'm about done with the electronics and next is getting the printhead completed and installed. Perhaps we won't have to flip it much after that. Wishful thinking, I know.

I'm considering that when I assemble the DIY Trident I may do the reverse electronics bay mod so it is all accessible from the top.

 

[Ken226]

True. That's a pretty close view, at scale it's pretty hard to notice. It could have been about half the volume it is, too, maybe even less as those cables are flexible so they can stick out or they can be held closer if they have room to expand parallel to the edge. This is PLA perhaps later I'll redo it in PETG and do a better job. I gave it 2.5mm where 1mm might have been enough. If the glass wasn't also crooked it probably would have been fine. Just going for function at the moment.

One problem is when I'm working on the printer electronics the display is upside down if mounted, so it is better loose for that process. But when I'm flipping the printer to work on something other than electronics the display really needs to be mounted. I'm about done with the electronics and next is getting the printhead completed and installed. Perhaps we won't have to flip it much after that. Wishful thinking, I know.

I'm considering that when I assemble the DIY Trident I may do the reverse electronics bay mod so it is all accessible from the top.

I remixed my own version of someone elses design, for these rollback skids. They've been a lifesaver, given how often I need to access the electronics bay. I'm not certain they would fit a Trident, but it's possible.

Voron Rollback Stands by Ken226 | Download free STL model | Printables.com

These are a remix of RockNLOL's RockNRoll model. I made it one-piece, stronger, and added they honeycomb interior. | Download free 3D printable STL models

www.printables.com

 

[AlanB]

Parts are starting to trickle in.. for a V0.2-S1 build. Should be fun.

 

[AlanB]

Have been putting some time in on the Voron LDO Trident 250 while getting over another round of the latest virus. So much for vaccines and prevention. The Klipperized machine made it's first print yesterday. A few things are not finished, but it's alive. I switched to a StealthBurner toolhead a couple weeks ago so the X carriage had to be replaced and the belts re-tensioned, and there were various impacts to the wiring and configuration files. It still needs Input Shaping and Tuning, LEDs and panels installed. But it is alive. And the display mount has worked out well, thanks again.

One thing I did that has been convenient was to use an old office chair as a work surface. Removed the back and sat the printer on the soft seat with a safety strap for insurance. This gives great access to all sides of the printer and its not hard to flip it over for electronics work. Instant swivel and hydraulic elevation adjustment. I'm thinking about taking the seat entirely off that old chair and replacing it with an appropriately sized wood surface for working on printers and other projects. I already have a 24" marble round to use on it for the frame squaring part of the build.

 

[AlanB]

My next Voron build will be an LDO V0.2-S1. This is a small portable mini-Voron with a 120mm build volume. They are very popular due to the rapid heat-up and high speed with which they can turn out small to medium size parts. All essential functional parts for any Voron can be printed in ABS or ASA on the 0.2, the larger parts like skirts can be printed on the operational larger printer after it is up and running. In many cases a small part can be printed on the 0.2 before a larger printer even gets up to printing temperature, so the small Vorons are very popular for speeding up prototyping cycles during development, some folks even have more than one of them for efficient rapid development on multiple parts. They are also great for onsite demos and presentations or for those with small workspaces.

I got the kit from Fabreeko for this build. They are one of the larger distributors for Voron LDO kits. They also sell the printed parts set to go with it so you don't have to print the ABS parts yourself. It is a less time consuming build than the Trident or 2.4 and the instructions are highly rated. It is a CoreXY printer with rails on all axes, integrated leadscrew on Z and direct drive extruder. It is enclosed and can print up through ABS and ASA and many engineering grade materials. Overall size is about 10x14x14 inches. It has a heated flat-ground aluminum bed and magnetic print plate system for easily swapping print plates and removing finished prints, just like the larger printers.

 

[AlanB]

Had a round of trouble with the BTT TFT43 display. After a major software update it still worked fine until the next power cycle. Then the display worked but the touch input quit working. Tried many "fixes" from the web as well as fiddling with the cables to no avail. Ordered a new display, it worked. Swapped back to the old display, it also works fine now. I suspect the software changes fixed it but a longer power cycle or two were needed for it to fully reset and allow it to begin working again, but it is hard to be certain. Added the frame LEDs, what a nice improvement. Next is the panels. I think I'm going to use a mixture of panel mounts. The regular screw type on the rear and bottom, and a combination of twist lock and magnetic for the sides and top.

Recently I put together a VLMP Heatset press (from Vector 3D via West3D). Could have used it sooner, but there are many more heatsets to come:

Raspberry Pi's are becoming more available from regular dealers at the normal pricing. Be on the lookout if you need any.

 

[AlanB]

Yesterday my Trident Serial number request was granted so we have an official Voron now.

I installed the doors and panels. The Voron panel snap-clips are excellent! I used them on the sides and top to facilitate removing panels for service or for printing PLA which needs better cooling. The handles on top do interfere with panel removal so the sides are easiest to remove, but even the handles only require 4 screws so much easier than removing a full set of the normal panel screws. I'm not sure how useful the handles will be, they are a bit high to use for lifting.

I did a thermal test of the heated bed for 30 minutes at 80C and the internal temperature reached 45C by the end when the thermal protection timer shut them off. That is adequate for ABS and ASA.

I was able to get 240mm in X, Y and Z. One might be able to get a little more but it might require some customization like drilling new holes or remaking some plastic parts. Not worth my time to pursue. If you need more than 240 then build a 300 Trident or V2.4, or a 350 V2.4. I have the 360mm Prusa XL if I need more build volume, but it's not too often that is needed. The overall size of the 250 is a good compromise for my purposes. It takes less workspace than the Prusa MK4 since the bed doesn't move back and forth.

For reference, this is a Voron Trident 250 Rev A kit from LDO, I did add a StealthBurner toolhead and 2 piece toolhead PCB. The newer kits probably include this. This one came with mostly Afterburner parts for the older toolhead. I bought the SB toolhead already built from Formbot with a Dragon SF hotend, but the included toolhead PCB was not compatible with the LDO cabling. So I procured the LDO Hartk 2 piece toolhead boards and changed those. The LDO cabling plugs directly into them. The plastic functional parts came from the Voron PIF program, but they were procured before StealthBurner was released, so they included older Afterburner parts. Parts beyond the functional parts were printed with PETG on the Prusa MK4. I think they will hold up to the chamber temperature but if not they can be replaced with ABS/ASA. Most of them are external anyway, only a few are inside, these are mostly LDO specific parts that didn't come in the original set such as Wago mounts and LDO PCB mounts. The kit did not include a Raspberry Pi so I used a Pi4 2GB model I procured separately. Even 1GB of memory is plenty, this is using under 300 MB of ram now, so a Pi 3B would be adequate.

LDO kits provide high quality parts, well packed and labelled. It is a bit fiddly following the excellent Voron instructions and LDO exceptions together.