- Joined
- Sep 22, 2010
- Messages
- 898
If it is a defective vial, I would be politely checking to see if there is any way they would warranty it.
Walter
Walter
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starrett 98 level not level
- Thread starter boringbar
- Start date
When I called Starrett I was my usual "Mr Nice Guy", very courteous. I explained the problem and said I though it was a "quality" issue, not an abuse problem. She gave me the number of the repair plug/vial I'd have to purchase. I politely again tried to let her know the level was manufactured with this defect but all she would do was give me the part # and price. She also let me know the repair items were about 1/2 the cost of a new level. I guess all those years at the "Attila the Hun Charm School"didn't pay off and were a total waste of time and effort. Except of course for the riding a horse, shooting a bow and pillaging but that doesn't go over well on a job resume. Thanks, you guys are full of helpful stuff.
- Joined
- Nov 2, 2010
- Messages
- 45
New stuff is not like the Old Starret
Starret farms out a lot of the produt manufacturing to 3rd. world countrys..
Big diffrence in the Old Starret and the NEW "JUNK" they make now..
It's all greed for the dollar..
Robbie
Starret farms out a lot of the produt manufacturing to 3rd. world countrys..
Big diffrence in the Old Starret and the NEW "JUNK" they make now..
It's all greed for the dollar..
Robbie
Yes, yes and yes. First thing I do is the "flip" test with a level, to be sure it's correct. It didn't pass this so I spent about an hour, or more, trying to adjust the level with the adjustment screws. Thanks for thinking about this though, sometimes we forget to try the simplest things first.
- Joined
- Feb 22, 2012
- Messages
- 924
heh... yeah, didn't see any reference to it being done, so figured I'd raise the question to make sure this is not a "DOH" moment
Cheers
- Joined
- Nov 12, 2017
- Messages
- 383
Reversing the level 180° is a test for repeatability; not true level.
Without working the calibration screws myself, it would be hard telling whether base, vial, or mount were at fault. The first method I use are matching feeler gauges, Jo blocks, reamer blanks [anything accurate] just at the ends. Then I pass a .001 smaller along the gap underneath.
This leads to a note about machine leveling. On a long bed to table, I start with a 2', 4' to 8' box beam level, dependent on space, another at 90°. Each are perched on matching 'supports' like 1-2-3's to bridge obstructions. This makes reading movement as it nears level, not 'twist'; very common in lathes. Then the good levels come out. Once I know the pitch of leveling screws [vertical movement per full turn] and distance between the supports, it simplifies estimates how far 3 of the corners need adjustment. I say 3 corners, not how many screws there are. Paint a stripe on the locknut, making incremental changes less of a guess.
One more helper; a pair of wedges; hardwood, aluminum, or bandsawn steel. The angle is shallow enough to fit between floor and machine base. Often trying to make final adjustments, too much compensation is made. OK. Before backing off, slip the wedge in; then back off the screw it will be carrying far less weight. Wedge can be tapped/ wiggled out as the screw just re-contacts the floor, it will be lower than before, just slightly.
Without working the calibration screws myself, it would be hard telling whether base, vial, or mount were at fault. The first method I use are matching feeler gauges, Jo blocks, reamer blanks [anything accurate] just at the ends. Then I pass a .001 smaller along the gap underneath.
This leads to a note about machine leveling. On a long bed to table, I start with a 2', 4' to 8' box beam level, dependent on space, another at 90°. Each are perched on matching 'supports' like 1-2-3's to bridge obstructions. This makes reading movement as it nears level, not 'twist'; very common in lathes. Then the good levels come out. Once I know the pitch of leveling screws [vertical movement per full turn] and distance between the supports, it simplifies estimates how far 3 of the corners need adjustment. I say 3 corners, not how many screws there are. Paint a stripe on the locknut, making incremental changes less of a guess.
One more helper; a pair of wedges; hardwood, aluminum, or bandsawn steel. The angle is shallow enough to fit between floor and machine base. Often trying to make final adjustments, too much compensation is made. OK. Before backing off, slip the wedge in; then back off the screw it will be carrying far less weight. Wedge can be tapped/ wiggled out as the screw just re-contacts the floor, it will be lower than before, just slightly.
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