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Rumley Oil Pull 1911 30-60 Model Tractor (My way)
- Thread starter rdean
- Start date
- Joined
- Mar 8, 2015
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- 364
Like the roof.
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 1,262
Thanks for the replies and likes.
The gear reducer is the subject of this episode.
Three different gear reducers were ordered or I should say gear motors as they have D/C motors attached to them. None of the listings have the gear ratio information so it was really a crap shoot to choose which to buy. They weren't expensive at around $10 each so I didn't feel to bad about cutting them open. The first one was delivered a couple of days back and that is it in the lathe.
In order to determine the gear ratio I cut the case apart so I could get to the armature. This actually worked quite well with no internal damage to the motor. The gear ratio turned out to be 25 to 1 and would be much too fast for the tractor as I had calculated somewhere around 250 to 1.
The second gear motor is shown below and was of much sturdier build.
Here are the dimensions of motor #2.
I cut this motor apart much like I had done to the first one and discovered it had a gear ratio of 450 to 1. Not where I wanted to be but thought it would be easier to speed up the input shaft than try to slow it down. This gear box has promise so I went to work.
Dismantling the armature was easier than expected after the copper windings were removed. The armature plates could be removed one at a time after they were separated from each other and the armature gear came off fairly easily as it was pressed on to the shaft.
The aluminum piece on the upper left side was made for the new output shaft that is at the center lower of the picture. This shaft was drilled for the original armature shaft to fit into and loctite in place.
After many trial fittings, cutting, drilling and adjustments this is the result.
I made the input end longer so it would fit better into the tractor frame.
The input shaft turns smoothly with just 0.100 end play and the gear box still works.
This will probably be the gear box I will use for the tractor as gear motor #3 is lost in shipping.
Thanks for looking
Ray
The gear reducer is the subject of this episode.
Three different gear reducers were ordered or I should say gear motors as they have D/C motors attached to them. None of the listings have the gear ratio information so it was really a crap shoot to choose which to buy. They weren't expensive at around $10 each so I didn't feel to bad about cutting them open. The first one was delivered a couple of days back and that is it in the lathe.
In order to determine the gear ratio I cut the case apart so I could get to the armature. This actually worked quite well with no internal damage to the motor. The gear ratio turned out to be 25 to 1 and would be much too fast for the tractor as I had calculated somewhere around 250 to 1.
The second gear motor is shown below and was of much sturdier build.
Here are the dimensions of motor #2.
I cut this motor apart much like I had done to the first one and discovered it had a gear ratio of 450 to 1. Not where I wanted to be but thought it would be easier to speed up the input shaft than try to slow it down. This gear box has promise so I went to work.
Dismantling the armature was easier than expected after the copper windings were removed. The armature plates could be removed one at a time after they were separated from each other and the armature gear came off fairly easily as it was pressed on to the shaft.
The aluminum piece on the upper left side was made for the new output shaft that is at the center lower of the picture. This shaft was drilled for the original armature shaft to fit into and loctite in place.
After many trial fittings, cutting, drilling and adjustments this is the result.
I made the input end longer so it would fit better into the tractor frame.
The input shaft turns smoothly with just 0.100 end play and the gear box still works.
This will probably be the gear box I will use for the tractor as gear motor #3 is lost in shipping.
Thanks for looking
Ray
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2017
- Messages
- 1,531
Once again, some amazing work.
I just happened to be watching several YouTube videos of restored steam tractors. Amazing to see them in action. By no means a one man show. Some were demonstrating the plowing. The plow they were pulling in this one episode had 7 blades, each was controlled by a long lever that several workers would raise and lower as they started and ended a row. Most had two people just to feed and drive the tractor. I would assume the tractors in the show had more people on them than would have been in practice but talk about a OSHA nightmare.
I just happened to be watching several YouTube videos of restored steam tractors. Amazing to see them in action. By no means a one man show. Some were demonstrating the plowing. The plow they were pulling in this one episode had 7 blades, each was controlled by a long lever that several workers would raise and lower as they started and ended a row. Most had two people just to feed and drive the tractor. I would assume the tractors in the show had more people on them than would have been in practice but talk about a OSHA nightmare.
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2017
- Messages
- 1,531
That is cool, these tractor meets bring people from both sides of the border.
If you didn't have to make a turn, you could plow a field in short order with that setup. But can you imagine trying to swing that setup around for a return pass. Would take as long or longer than it did to make the pass.
'
Hey, that could be your next project, you could build the plow that goes behind the steam tractor. That would keep you buys for some time.
If you didn't have to make a turn, you could plow a field in short order with that setup. But can you imagine trying to swing that setup around for a return pass. Would take as long or longer than it did to make the pass.
'
Hey, that could be your next project, you could build the plow that goes behind the steam tractor. That would keep you buys for some time.
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 1,262
This shows the under side of the frame and the cutout I made for the gear reducer. The reducer is attached with two 6/32 screws and the other end of it fits through a hole in the frame.
And here it is right side up.
The input side of the gear box got a 3/4" pulley and the engine crankshaft got a 1" pulley but I didn't get a picture of it.
This will increase the RPMs to the gear box but I really don't know if that will be enough. I think it will move around 8' per minute but that seems a little slow to me. It won't be a big deal to change the overall gear ratio if that needs to be done but I don't know how much power the little engine actually has. Time will tell.
There will be a 3/16" diameter rubber o-ring long enough to connect the pulleys on both the input and output sides of the gear reducer.
The output of the gear box and the rear axle each received a pulley with an o-ring drive belt.
Thanks for looking
Ray
And here it is right side up.
The input side of the gear box got a 3/4" pulley and the engine crankshaft got a 1" pulley but I didn't get a picture of it.
This will increase the RPMs to the gear box but I really don't know if that will be enough. I think it will move around 8' per minute but that seems a little slow to me. It won't be a big deal to change the overall gear ratio if that needs to be done but I don't know how much power the little engine actually has. Time will tell.
There will be a 3/16" diameter rubber o-ring long enough to connect the pulleys on both the input and output sides of the gear reducer.
The output of the gear box and the rear axle each received a pulley with an o-ring drive belt.
Thanks for looking
Ray
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2014
- Messages
- 1,262
Tractor's first steps
I was worried that the little engine would not have enough power to pull itself around but that will not be a problem. The final drive band is too flexible and causes the tractor to stumble along. A heavier band will be installed.
Now that I know it will move I am going to make some other changes before proceeding. I moved the ignition module to under the engine and made a plate to cover it.
I didn't like the front radiator tower as it was not wide enough and it needed to be a little taller so that is next on the list.
Thanks for looking
Ray
I was worried that the little engine would not have enough power to pull itself around but that will not be a problem. The final drive band is too flexible and causes the tractor to stumble along. A heavier band will be installed.
Now that I know it will move I am going to make some other changes before proceeding. I moved the ignition module to under the engine and made a plate to cover it.
I didn't like the front radiator tower as it was not wide enough and it needed to be a little taller so that is next on the list.
Thanks for looking
Ray
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