Quarantine Projects!

[Weldo]

Strap wrench update.

The threads went pretty OK. I ended up having to make an unthreaded portion on the end because there's still some aluminum in the threads of the nut. With this, I miss that galling.




Pardon my surface finish. I tried to dish out the end a little to grab the strap more securely.




Scratch pass. Looks good.




The thread cut just fine. I never checked with thread wires, though I do have them. I just kept trying the nut. I ended up having to knock down the peaks a good bit to get it to thread in. The final OD is around 0.714"! Ugh...




I sanded up the head part.






I tried it out with some smooth seatbelt style nylon I had. This was a take off from my kayak when I changed seats.




I doubled it up so I could put a pin in the loop. If you really pull on it, the strap pulls free form the threaded handle.



Well that's about it. I guess I'd call it done though it doesn't work as well as I'd like. The grip isn't all that tight. When I loop the strap around and feed it back through, it doesn't pinch to the head very strongly and slips. I rounded the head over pretty good because I didn't want the strap to cut or fray over time but maybe I should have left it with more square edges. Or maybe I need a thicker, stiffer strap material?

 

[Weldo]

Centers. Put your round part between centers, place this on a surface plate, and check runout with an indicator.

Oh I get it. Cool stuff! Is there any manufacturer names or marks?

That is correct. If it is a 4 wire single phase motor (+ ground) then you should be able to reverse it. I find being able to reverse mine to be a useful, albeit seldom used feature. Very helpful for metric threading when you need to reverse out of the thread.

I've been thinking about adding a switch like this maybe...



But I wonder. I have an old toggle switch in the basement. It's a DPDT. Like the one below. Could that work for switching the motor?

 

[pontiac428]

Thicker, non-stretch strap with beeswax or rosin for grip. The strap on my Ridgid is pretty beefy, and even that has not been up for the job on occasion.

 

[Weldo]

You know what? Maybe an old serpentine belt?

 

[macardoso]

Oh I get it. Cool stuff! Is there any manufacturer names or marks?



I've been thinking about adding a switch like this maybe...

View attachment 319197

But I wonder. I have an old toggle switch in the basement. It's a DPDT. Like the one below. Could that work for switching the motor?

View attachment 319198

I would not use the DPDT switch shown below. It would be switching the full load of the motor plus the startup amps. These switches are not rated for that. The reversing switch is physically much larger which gives you a clue about the switch contacts inside.

Another option is a pair of contactors in a reversing configuration. This is what I use, so I can use the start/stop/reverse lever that came stock on my lathe.

 

[Weldo]

I would not use the DPDT switch shown below. It would be switching the full load of the motor plus the startup amps. These switches are not rated for that. The reversing switch is physically much larger which gives you a clue about the switch contacts inside.

Below is a picture of the on/off switch that's currently on my lathe. The DPDT one I have is the same size so I thought it might work. As far as I know this is the switch that shipped with this machine from the factory.

 

[macardoso]

Below is a picture of the on/off switch that's currently on my lathe. The DPDT one I have is the same size so I thought it might work. As far as I know this is the switch that shipped with this machine from the factory.

View attachment 319204

Well, you got me They must've found a switch rated for the motor load. The reversing option only works if the motor is would to be a reversible motor with 4 connections. If it is just a two wire deal, you won't be able to reverse it.

 

[Weldo]

Thanks for the advice! I'm not sure what the ratings on either switch are, but the back up plan is to mount a reversing drum switch off to the side somewhere on the lathe. The DPDT makes a cleaner install but it may not be rated properly.

What's your opinion on upping the HP on a small lathe. The current motor is an old 1/2 HP model, I think it even says "Washing Machine" right on the motor plate! I thought about putting on a 3/4 HP motor just because I have one but I don't think the motor is the limiting factor on this machine, but rather it's the rigidity, or lack there of.

 

[macardoso]

Thanks for the advice! I'm not sure what the ratings on either switch are, but the back up plan is to mount a reversing drum switch off to the side somewhere on the lathe. The DPDT makes a cleaner install but it may not be rated properly.

What's your opinion on upping the HP on a small lathe. The current motor is an old 1/2 HP model, I think it even says "Washing Machine" right on the motor plate! I thought about putting on a 3/4 HP motor just because I have one but I don't think the motor is the limiting factor on this machine, but rather it's the rigidity, or lack there of.

Sounds good. If you do use the DPDT, just be careful you don't shock yourself.

I don't see an issue with that. The rigidity of your lathe will determine how much of that HP you can actually use. It will be less that you think. Also if you go too big of a motor, components in the drive-train could break before the motor stalls.

 

[Weldo]

Yea, I don’t think it’s worth it. I’ve never had it bog down for lack of power but I have seen the compound deflect enough to wonder why it didn’t crack right off!