An old man and a New Vevor mini lathe

[dabear3428]

Dave, where did you buy those items?

for me Amazon, Aliexpress or Vevor.

 

[Smithdoor]

Dave, where did you buy those items?

Amazon, Walmart and LMS.
The cross slide exstension I made but can be purchased from LMS

Dave

 

[Old Everything Tech]

I waited for over a week for a new switch to arrive from Amazon for my mini lathe.
Today it came in the mail.
I decided to get to work and install it.
Not long and I had it in place, with all wires in the proper place.
I plugged in the plug and, and , and nothing worked.
The new switch had the same problem as the old.
I removed it and ohmed out the solenoid.
No reading between the power pin to the neutral of the solenoid.
I did a return with explanation and Amazon said keep it, do not return it.
They refunded my money.
Now that brings up the question, does Amazon know that the seller is selling faulty products?
The add to that, I have a switch coming from Vevor.
I have a feeling that the Vevor switch will be bad also.
If you looked inside on of them, you could understand why they fail.

 

[Old Everything Tech]

Electrical print of the latest Vevor mini lathe.
On the left side of the print there is a "Power Protection card" shown.
However, the wire on "A1" goes straight to pin 10 of the Forward-Reverse switch.
There is NO Power protection card.
On another note, one should be aware that hold-in solenoid for the start button does not have an electrical release, as when you push the stop button you manually force the solenoid to release the contacts.

 

[Old Everything Tech]

After further investigation I discovered that the coil connects between terminal #4 (120 vac supply) and terminal A1.
A1 needs a neutral connection to hold the contacts in.
This lathe was wired incorrectly as the A1 wire went to forward reverse switch terminal 9 then to terminal 10 which connected to the supply (120 vac) terminal on the board.
That wire connected to the F/R switch #10 should have been connected to the neutral J1 terminal on the board, not the supply.
So, it appears that the original switch was not bad, only a wiring mistake at Vevor.
Even their print is incorrect. Check it out!

 

[tq60]

If purchased via Amazon, I would start a chat so there is a record.

They will likely have more of these, you may get some credit.

Next, write a review and provide these details in the review, others can use that.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Old Everything Tech]

The switch did not arrive as promised.

 

[Old Everything Tech]

The switch arrived via DHL at 8 pm Thursday.
This morning, I got the switch ohmed out and found that the coil is connected between terminal 8 and A1 although the drawing on the switch shows the coil between 4 and A1. Coil resistance is 889 ohms.
Terminal 4 is the 120-vac side.
Terminal 8 is the neutral connection.

So, 120-vac fed from the supply on the board, (Shown in red) thru the F/R switch then to A1, then thru the coil and to neutral. Solenoid energizes.

The only problem I have with this set up is that to break the 120-vac you have to forcibly pull the solenoid flapper away from the solenoid with the red stop PB.
I opened a bad sw. and that is the way it works.
I really do not understand the logic in this procedure as forcibly pulling the actuator away from the solenoid is asking for a burned-out coil.
I installed a small Normally Closed stop PB in series with the supply 120-vac to electrically drop out the coil.
No more forcing.
I am ready to roll.

 

[dabear3428]

The switch arrived via DHL at 8 pm Thursday.
This morning, I got the switch ohmed out and found that the coil is connected between terminal 8 and A1 although the drawing on the switch shows the coil between 4 and A1. Coil resistance is 889 ohms.
Terminal 4 is the 120-vac side.
Terminal 8 is the neutral connection.

So, 120-vac fed from the supply on the board, (Shown in red) thru the F/R switch then to A1, then thru the coil and to neutral. Solenoid energizes.

The only problem I have with this set up is that to break the 120-vac you have to forcibly pull the solenoid flapper away from the solenoid with the red stop PB.
I opened a bad sw. and that is the way it works.
I really do not understand the logic in this procedure as forcibly pulling the actuator away from the solenoid is asking for a burned-out coil.
I installed a small Normally Closed stop PB in series with the supply 120-vac to electrically drop out the coil.
No more forcing.
I am ready to roll.

ok, time to make some razor spaghetti.