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POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?
- Thread starter wachuko
- Start date
- Joined
- Aug 6, 2015
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- 4,208
In the afternoons, after work, I have been moving stuff around to find their final place... this is without removing the boxes and things that do not belong, that were moved into the garage just to empty the PODS. So after I am done moving all that as well, I am very optimistic that this single garage space will work out for my needs.
I will build an enclosure for the filter/water softener. About 5' or 6' tall. And strong enough that I can use the top cover as a shelf.
Sharing a few photos of the progress...
and yes, I need to finish the CNC setup of the G0704...
I need to move the Logan lathe a little bit more towards the front. To setup the motor support... And I really should sell the 9x20... I also need to move the big lathe away from the wall, enough so that the gantry crane can roll behind it... Did not think about that when I placed it there.
PODS should be gone by Monday afternoon...
I will build an enclosure for the filter/water softener. About 5' or 6' tall. And strong enough that I can use the top cover as a shelf.
Sharing a few photos of the progress...
and yes, I need to finish the CNC setup of the G0704...
I need to move the Logan lathe a little bit more towards the front. To setup the motor support... And I really should sell the 9x20... I also need to move the big lathe away from the wall, enough so that the gantry crane can roll behind it... Did not think about that when I placed it there.
PODS should be gone by Monday afternoon...
Last edited:
- Joined
- Mar 22, 2022
- Messages
- 383
RF-30 DRO X axis mount, the simple one. Went with "use the front dovetail in the table" approach that hosts the X axis stops for mounting the scale.
First time cutting slots. Third attempt resulted in slots that look like slots and are spaced properly for mounting the read head. two others found their way into the "something that I might be able to use In the future" project pile with the other learning experiences.
6 hours of futzing around but it does seem to work and is reasonably level end to end.
Y axis is next up.
First time cutting slots. Third attempt resulted in slots that look like slots and are spaced properly for mounting the read head. two others found their way into the "something that I might be able to use In the future" project pile with the other learning experiences.
6 hours of futzing around but it does seem to work and is reasonably level end to end.Y axis is next up.
That's why I'm going to try the plywood over the mats at the lathes. 2' x 8'
- Joined
- Sep 10, 2022
- Messages
- 1,131
I was gifted a Trav A Dial by a member yesterday. It was not functioning correctly. The member sent it to be evaluated by the company that services these now. Anyhow they sent it back stating it could not be repaired.
On inspection myself I saw they never cracked it open to look at it. This model not sure the model? Has 6 screws on the back holding it together. The screws are bondoed over and painted when new. The bondo was still intact. See picture after I cleaned out one.
I got it apart and saw it was just crudded up with some swarf. Not a lot by any means. I cleaned the gears and the bearings with some alcohol. Then re assembled. There is only a few simple things to remember. First make sure of the orientation of the 2 nylon gears. They must go back the same way. The second is the drive wheel assembly is spring loaded and you will need to load it when assembling. Sorry I did not take pictures of that. It is simple enough. Hold the base and twist the drive wheel CCW about 60 degrees. There is a hole that will line up. While holding I put a pin in. The pin was .073 dia. There is a hole in the case that is covered by the .100 small dial. (Note. That dial must be removed before taking apart. A small set screw holds it on. You will need so move the wheel to get the screw to align with the cap hole.). Now simply drop the gear assembly into the top section of the case and have the pin go through the hole. Put the back case on and screw it sown. Do not over tighten the screws. Now remove the pin and instal the dial. You are good to go. DO NOT try removing the bezel it is screed down with 2 screws under the dial plate.
You can see the small alignment hole in the following picture.
Cutting oil is my blood.
On inspection myself I saw they never cracked it open to look at it. This model not sure the model? Has 6 screws on the back holding it together. The screws are bondoed over and painted when new. The bondo was still intact. See picture after I cleaned out one.
I got it apart and saw it was just crudded up with some swarf. Not a lot by any means. I cleaned the gears and the bearings with some alcohol. Then re assembled. There is only a few simple things to remember. First make sure of the orientation of the 2 nylon gears. They must go back the same way. The second is the drive wheel assembly is spring loaded and you will need to load it when assembling. Sorry I did not take pictures of that. It is simple enough. Hold the base and twist the drive wheel CCW about 60 degrees. There is a hole that will line up. While holding I put a pin in. The pin was .073 dia. There is a hole in the case that is covered by the .100 small dial. (Note. That dial must be removed before taking apart. A small set screw holds it on. You will need so move the wheel to get the screw to align with the cap hole.). Now simply drop the gear assembly into the top section of the case and have the pin go through the hole. Put the back case on and screw it sown. Do not over tighten the screws. Now remove the pin and instal the dial. You are good to go. DO NOT try removing the bezel it is screed down with 2 screws under the dial plate.
You can see the small alignment hole in the following picture.
Cutting oil is my blood.
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- Sep 10, 2022
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- 1,131
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2018
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- 6,883
Made an Anschutz rail for a hand stop.
- Joined
- Nov 7, 2019
- Messages
- 485
Another mini project, wife wanted some feet for the sofa which were hard to find.
Made 10 of them which is kinda nice as you can find a good method and just repeat it.
I'm still such a rookie when it comes to working both ends of a piece, definitely need more practice.
Started with the red tube, faced one end, flipped it around, faced and bored the other end(same tool/op).
This was mostly to get the faces parallel and the tube to the right length.
The bore is for the orange plug/foot so it can't slip further into the tube.
Orange part was cut from flat stock using a hole saw, so I got a bunch of cylinder slightly bigger than needed.
I then drilled a 6mm hole so I could put a bunch of them on an arbor and turn them all down to 23mm, had I thought ahead I could've just used a 6mm center in the hole saw and saved some time there.
After that I could press them into the tube and face the tube again so everything was flush and correct length.
Blue part was then turned from flat stock, cut a whole bunch of 40x40x8mm pieces and drilled a 6mm hole through them which allowed me to put them all on an arbor and turn them down to ~40mm diameter.
After that I turned them one by one to get the smaller diameter and redrill/thread to M8
These were pressed into the tubes and welded.
Felt like it took quite some time but then again it's like 60 different setups to get it all sorted.
Made 10 of them which is kinda nice as you can find a good method and just repeat it.
I'm still such a rookie when it comes to working both ends of a piece, definitely need more practice.
Started with the red tube, faced one end, flipped it around, faced and bored the other end(same tool/op).
This was mostly to get the faces parallel and the tube to the right length.
The bore is for the orange plug/foot so it can't slip further into the tube.
Orange part was cut from flat stock using a hole saw, so I got a bunch of cylinder slightly bigger than needed.
I then drilled a 6mm hole so I could put a bunch of them on an arbor and turn them all down to 23mm, had I thought ahead I could've just used a 6mm center in the hole saw and saved some time there.
After that I could press them into the tube and face the tube again so everything was flush and correct length.
Blue part was then turned from flat stock, cut a whole bunch of 40x40x8mm pieces and drilled a 6mm hole through them which allowed me to put them all on an arbor and turn them down to ~40mm diameter.
After that I turned them one by one to get the smaller diameter and redrill/thread to M8
These were pressed into the tubes and welded.
Felt like it took quite some time but then again it's like 60 different setups to get it all sorted.