POTD- PROJECT OF THE DAY: What Did You Make In Your Shop Today?

koenbro said:
I don't have any HSS tools. Is there any sharp (or sharp-er) insert you'd recommend? Is there a smaller radius insert that might reduce tool pressure? As a novice I decided (perhaps mistakenly) to do inserts only and am not set up for sharpening HSS blanks.
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Try a CCGT insert. They have ground edges. Don't last as long, but may reduce cutting forces. A tighter nose radius may help some as well.
 
koenbro said:
I don't have any HSS tools. Is there any sharp (or sharp-er) insert you'd recommend? Is there a smaller radius insert that might reduce tool pressure? As a novice I decided (perhaps mistakenly) to do inserts only and am not set up for sharpening HSS blanks.
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Hmmm. You could look into these. I keep threatening to buy some, but never seem to get around to it.

If you're new to this, getting a few HSS blanks to have around wouldn't be a bad idea. It's always nice to be able to grind your own when you need something special. Special grooving tools, or what ever. Even threading tools.
 
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A wee and a half at most. Definitely avoid the full wee-wee. Mike



Quote: If I understand correctly, need to elevate the tail stock foot closer to me to turn the cutting tool inwards just a wee. Is that right?
 
dkemppai said:
Hmmm. You could look into these. I keep threatening to buy some, but never seem to get around to it.

If you're new to this, getting a few HSS blanks to have around wouldn't be a bad idea. It's always nice to be able to grind your own when you need something special. Special grooving tools, or what ever. Even threading tools.
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I use carbide inserts (especially those ground & polished for Aluminum), A.R. Warner T-15 inserts and Cobalt in Eccentric Engineering Diamond holders for most work, but have HSS/Cobalt blanks and a handful of salvaged bits ready for modification.
 
ChazzC said:
I use carbide inserts (especially those ground & polished for Aluminum), A.R. Warner T-15 inserts and Cobalt in Eccentric Engineering Diamond holders for most work, but have HSS/Cobalt blanks and a handful of salvaged bits ready for modification.
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CCGT are typically used for aluminum, but work very well on steel (with a shorter life).

Since the OP had CCMT, thought it was a no brainer to try some CCGT's. He may have to adjust the height of the tool, to get on center line again. At least the inserts that I had, the heights of the CCMT and CCGT inserts were slightly different.
 
WobblyHand said:
CCGT are typically used for aluminum, but work very well on steel (with a shorter life).

Since the OP had CCMT, thought it was a no brainer to try some CCGT's. He may have to adjust the height of the tool, to get on center line again. At least the inserts that I had, the heights of the CCMT and CCGT inserts were slightly different.
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Yes, the MT are flat and the GT corners are curved upwards. And yes, work very well on steel, particularly on small lathes with lower available power.

I just wish ARW had more selection (55 degree diamonds in addition to 80 degree).
 
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koenbro said:
I decided (perhaps mistakenly) to do inserts only and am not set up for sharpening HSS blanks.
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Sets of HSS tools are available already ground to shape. They may need a bit of honing on a flat stone. A cheap and easy starting point also when you decide you need/want something special. Also a lot cheaper than buying a pack of 10 inserts for rarely used shapes. It really isn't all that hard to get acceptable cutting edges. On a bench grinder softer wheels work better on HSS than the crappy wheels that usually come on them. Dress the wheel often. You can also use a diamond tip to shape them. They do wear faster but for a hobby operation that still likely means years. Another option for when you want intricate patterns is to get wheels made for profile grinders, like are used for grinding HSS molder knives to shape. We used the blue ceramic ones or sometimes the pink or white ones in our shop. They come in a variety of materials some last longer or hold a better shape but it won't matter for hobby use. Maybe you can get a worn down one from a wood shop that makes moldings. Use the diamond profile tip to make very sharp edges on them. You will need to turn an adapter and larger flanges for the bench grinder shaft. For an idea of what they can do for you watch a video of a Weinig profile grinder in operation. I had one in my wood shop for grind to pattern for custom moldings. A profile grinder uses flood cooling so--- keep a dip pan close & use it often. Always best to use a vacuum on a bench grinder as HSS dust isn't good to breath.
 
With the recent posts about honing HSS my POTD is timely . It‘s originally an option for a Belsaw Sharpnall but one could be easily made for a regular bench grinder . What the option is to have you remove a grinding wheel nuts flanges and guard . Then one wrap of friction tape ( I only had duct tape ) over that was a rubber drive . The ones that I had with it were hard and broke trying to install them . They look similar to rubber chair tips so I ordered different ones from Amazon . One was very close to the correct diameter but I’m sure the others would work , just changing the speed . The bracket bolts to the grinder sub base but something could be made to mount on a bench top . Then a 1/2” shaft threaded into it with a adjustabe coller to set the height of the 8” disc so the rubber tip drives it but still rides on the collar . Pictures will be better than the way i described it . I tried using 600 grit wet dry emery attached but it loaded up too quickly . Ill try different grits to see what works best EDIT the attachment #is 274 if you do a search there are many on eBay
 

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Alcap said:
With the recent posts about honing HSS my POTD is timely . It‘s originally an option for a Belsaw Sharpnall but one could be easily made for a regular bench grinder . What the option is to have you remove a grinding wheel nuts flanges and guard . Then one wrap of friction tape ( I only had duct tape ) over that was a rubber drive . The ones that I had with it were hard and broke trying to install them . They look similar to rubber chair tips so I ordered different ones from Amazon . One was very close to the correct diameter but I’m sure the others would work , just changing the speed . The bracket bolts to the grinder sub base but something could be made to mount on a bench top . Then a 1/2” shaft threaded into it with a adjustabe coller to set the height of the 8” disc so the rubber tip drives it but still rides on the collar . Pictures will be better than the way i described it . I tried using 600 grit wet dry emery attached but it loaded up too quickly . Ill try different grits to see what works best EDIT the attachment #is 274 if you do a search there are many on eBay
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not understanding what it's honing? I would think the disk would be below the hone? a little video?
 
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