Orientation of Machine Vice on Mill table

[GeneT45]

I've been using a dedicated ratchet and socket on my vise (and drawbar) for many years. Still fouls the Y-axis handle, but only when the jaws are open and the weight of the wrench can turn the vise screw.

GsT

 

[rwdenney]

Here’s the mill @mmcmdl mentioned, with the vise in the conventional orientation. Note the speed handle. I keep the original handle handy for times when extra oomph may be needed. This one was affordable on eBay, and it’s US-made and nicely so. It has two positions, both of which clear the Y ways.

I note that the X axis is most likely to have power feed, and that most facing operations go along the X axis and need to run parallel to the jaws. I suspect that’s as good an argument as any for the conventional arrangement. But that’s why they are moveable.

Rick “guys have their own styles, of course” Denney

 

[Red96]

To turn the vice 90 degrees as you are describing, your vice mounting hole spacing would need to be a match to your table's T slot spacing.

 

[ChazzC]

Here’s the mill @mmcmdl mentioned, with the vise in the conventional orientation. Note the speed handle. I keep the original handle handy for times when extra oomph may be needed. This one was affordable on eBay, and it’s US-made and nicely so. It has two positions, both of which clear the Y ways.

I note that the X axis is most likely to have power feed, and that most facing operations go along the X axis and need to run parallel to the jaws. I suspect that’s as good an argument as any for the conventional arrangement. But that’s why they are moveable.

Rick “guys have their own styles, of course” Denney

Unfortunately, the "Z" challenges on a Mini-Mill extend below the table as well as above:

 

[WobblyHand]

Unfortunately, the "Z" challenges on a Mini-Mill extend below the table as well as above:

View attachment 507968

What's the problem? You want to preserve your knuckles?
Just one of the challenges in machining. Order of operation matters. Position Y, then X. Other times, I just pull the vise handle after tightening then do final positioning for milling.

 

[ChazzC]

What's the problem? You want to preserve your knuckles?
Just one of the challenges in machining. Order of operation matters. Position Y, then X. Other times, I just pull the vise handle after tightening then do final positioning for milling.

I typically tighten the vise, remove the handle then position the table. Unfortunately, half the time I reach for the vise handle after finishing an operation I see that isn't where it belongs and then "The Search" starts.

 

[SouthernChap]

$7 on the bay . I guess you guys across the pond have Epay ?

Yes indeed we do. But as I said, for someone starting out on their hobby machinist journey (and since I've spent a far too much time during the last year getting the workshop sane for an ADHD mind and probably a little too much time disassembling, fettling, and improving my 7x14, I am definitely still starting out), I reckon it's not a bad little 'apprentice' milling project; a bit like the eternal scriber, drill sharpening gauge or machinist hammer projects.

 

[Pevehouse]

I got my directions confused; here is Y = 0" Table as close as practical to the column):

View attachment 507917


And Y = 3.75" (table at the far end of it's travel):

View attachment 507918
That's a 1/2" pin in the drill chuck, so I can work on the back & front edges of a ~3" deep piece of material.


Here's the Y hand wheel and vise handle (custom made by Osteg Texas – one of three in existence: the first one interfered with the vise base [I use it on my 4" self-centering vise, bottom photo] and this one is just about perfect [I'm assuming that the Maker made one for himself ]):

View attachment 507919

View attachment 507921

A little off subject but what are the little guards there, that you have dropped into the t slots? What are they made of I mean?

 

[ChazzC]

A little off subject but what are the little guards there, that you have dropped into the t slots? What are they made of I mean?

Not at all (well, maybe a little ) I ripped them from 5/8” x 1-1/2” PVC trim (couldn’t find any commercial ones):

Royal Building Products 5/8 in. D x 1-1/2 in. W x 8 ft. L PVC Vinyl White Trimplank Composite S4S Molding MLDP01X02WM250WH - The Home Depot

100% PVC window, door and garage surrounds, trim, fascia and decorative molding provide a beautiful durable option to costly wood trim products. Whether you're building a new home or remodeling an existing

www.homedepot.com

5/8” is just below the table surface on my LMS 3990 Mini-Mill; ripped them on a small table saw to ~11.5mm wide.

 

[SouthernChap]

A little off subject

Mate, given my habit for dragging threads so far off topic, you'd need the James Webb telescope to see the original subject, you're absolutely fine!