Now i can be like the cool kids on YouTube!

[woodchucker]

Can you drop a magnet in the can so it will stick to the machine bed making it seem to have a heavy base.

and collect all the swarf

 

[Parlo]

and collect all the swarf

win win

 

[woodchucker]

win win

I meant on the bottom of the outside of the can, not inside. It's a gun, so nothing will get inside like a brush. Then you won't be able to put it down level, and will have to pull the stuff off to sit it down.

 

[Parlo]

I meant on the bottom of the outside of the can, not inside. It's a gun, so nothing will get inside like a brush. Then you won't be able to put it down level, and will have to pull the stuff off to sit it down.

Who said the inside? I would use another one if I was machining ferrous material. It does not have to exactly level.

 

[woodchucker]

well, it's brass, you can't stick it, you would need to glue it to the bottom.

And .. I give up... forget it.

 

[GeneT45]

I have an inexpensive import oiler from Amazon. I use a magnet (external) to stick it to the arm holding my mill lighting. The location keeps the chips off of it. You could probably find one or two, but nothing disruptive. It's all about your circumstance.

GsT

 

[Red96]

Bought a Goldenrod and before any oil was put in, it got an alcohol rinse and the bottom crimp was carefully and neatly resealed with RTV. Many comments about the new ones leaking, so got in front of that issue whilst adhesion was still on the menu.

The tip was not very conducive to getting oil into the ball oilers. A short length of soft clear tubing over the tip fixed that issue nicely. Trimmed clean and square with a razor blade, the tubing pushes and seals around the ball and oil goes into the oiler with little or no mess/wasted oil.

Later the trigger started sticking, so out came the pump assembly and had to fettle the components to mate as they should. With that, my little oiler actually works very well - and continues to.....so far. Just over $10 on Zoro last time I looked.

 

[woodchucker]

Bought a Goldenrod and before any oil was put in, it got an alcohol rinse and the bottom crimp was carefully and neatly resealed with RTV. Many comments about the new ones leaking, so got in front of that issue whilst adhesion was still on the menu.

The tip was not very conducive to getting oil into the ball oilers. A short length of soft clear tubing over the tip fixed that issue nicely. Trimmed clean and square with a razor blade, the tubing pushes and seals around the ball and oil goes into the oiler with little or no mess/wasted oil.

Later the trigger started sticking, so out came the pump assembly and had to fettle the components to mate as they should. With that, my little oiler actually works very well - and continues to.....so far. Just over $10 on Zoro last time I looked.

My plews seals over the ball oilers nicely, but so nice that it won't pump any in. The ball blocks it. I put a notch in the end of the spigot, but that did not help. So I was over it. Don't know why it won't pump in a ball oiler.. But all my other oilers do.

 

[WobblyHand]

Just tried my Eagle 66 on my mill's ball oilers. If you can get it square, or nearly square, it seals well and neatly pumps oil in. It seals better than my Goldenrod. Cutting oil corroded the plating on the cap of the Goldenrod - that surprised me. In my opinion, the Eagle 66 is much nicer.

 

[Batmanacw]

All three of them leaked. I snugged up the retaining nut that holds the pump rod the best I could for a second time. It has to be pretty tight to seal against the body through deformation.

One leaked through the pump rod seal so I snugged that too. Right now they are sitting full just waiting to see if they are better tomorrow.

They may tend to leak but they work extremely well. I'm hoping the guy still has a few tomorrow.