What did I buy? B&S9-JT3

[Ultradog MN]

for drilling, you may be ok without drawbar retention

That was my thought.
This old mill will get used primarily as a drill press anyway. I have found 2 bs9 collets so far - 1/2 and 3/4" and will find more I'm sure.
Only have $18.50 in this arbor so will keep it reguardless.
Thanks to all.

 

[benmychree]

The B&S taper is designated as "self holding", that is, not generally requiring a drawbar (I say "generally") I had my for many years, and did not use a drawbar for most milling work, and had few occasions where the taper worked loose.

 

[Aaron_W]

That was my thought.
This old mill will get used primarily as a drill press anyway. I have found 2 bs9 collets so far - 1/2 and 3/4" and will find more I'm sure.
Only have $18.50 in this arbor so will keep it reguardless.
Thanks to all.

Little Machine Shop and All Industrial both have B&S collets that are not terribly expensive, $10-20 / collet, cheaper as sets.

All Industrial B&S collets

Little Machine Shop B&S collets

 

[yukon_rose]

>Can this be used in the mill without the drawbar or is it imperative that it be used with a drawbar?

I have a Diamond Tool Company horizontal mill with a B&S #9 taper for the arbor. I have 3 arbors for the thing and I change them occasionally. Once I didn't bother to attach the drawbar. The arbor proceeded to "walk" out of the arbor hole. It ruined the piece I was making.

So YES you need the drawbar. Drilling and tapping a tanged piece is quite possible if you bought a Chinese version as they are RARELY hardened. Older US-made pieces are almost always hardened so tapping them is a MASSIVE job.

Gary

 

[Aaron_W]

>Can this be used in the mill without the drawbar or is it imperative that it be used with a drawbar?

I have a Diamond Tool Company horizontal mill with a B&S #9 taper for the arbor. I have 3 arbors for the thing and I change them occasionally. Once I didn't bother to attach the drawbar. The arbor proceeded to "walk" out of the arbor hole. It ruined the piece I was making.

So YES you need the drawbar. Drilling and tapping a tanged piece is quite possible if you bought a Chinese version as they are RARELY hardened. Older US-made pieces are almost always hardened so tapping them is a MASSIVE job.

Gary

Wow another Diamond mill, that makes 5 or 6 of them now that I am aware of being owned by members on this site.

 

[Ultradog MN]

I used the mill a few times with that arbor now.
It worked fine as is.
I guy probably shouldn't use it with a milling cutter - and I won't - but for drilling holes I think it will be okay.
I wish I could find the right adapter to go from BS 9 to MT 3. Have some larger drill bits with MT 2 and MT 3 and would like to use those in the mill.

 

[yukon_rose]

I wish I could find the right adapter to go from BS 9 to MT 3.

I don't think you will. The large end of the B&S #9 is 1.07". The large end of a Morse #3 is .98" making them virtually the same size. The only way to make such an adapter is to put the tapers end to end. That would make the unit too long to be practical in a milling environment.

Gary

 

[Ultradog MN]

I don't think you will. The large end of the B&S #9 is 1.07". The large end of a Morse #3 is .98" making them virtually the same size. The only way to make such an adapter is to put the tapers end to end. That would make the unit too long to be practical in a milling environment.

Gary

Thanks. Yes you are correct.
I have several drills with MT2 so finding a BS9 to MT2 would help too.