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Wow, so you're going to sign up for a commercial account to be able to sell something here that Clausing sells for $8.58 new? That's ambitious!
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New To Me 1966 Clausing 5914
- Thread starter rodm717
- Start date
Wow, you are assuming a lot. You know what they say about assumptions!Wow, so you're going to sign up for a commercial account to be able to sell something here that Clausing sells for $8.58 new? That's ambitious!
All that for side stepping a request to give away something I spent my time and money on.
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i received the bearings and pulled the clutch/bracke assembly. I used 3 jaw pullers to remove the outboard bearings and a piece uhmw tube and rubber mallet to put the new bearings on. Worked really well. Luckily the inboard bearings felt good and smooth without any perceivable play.
I'm cleaning the timing pullys of any grease and debris before installing the new belts and placing the assembly back together.
I'm cleaning the timing pullys of any grease and debris before installing the new belts and placing the assembly back together.
After firing it up and still experiencing a fair amount noise and vibration, this is what i found. Would love to throttle the person that worked on this before i bought it.
I pulled the lower slave cylinder, outer pulley, and connecting bolt to find the shaft key loose in the space between. This after finding play in the pulley/motor shaft and noticing the belt was not correctly alinged between upper and lower pulleys. Unfortunately the rear pulley seems almost seized to the motor shaft. Rubber deadblow does not move the rear sheave in the least. Going a peach to remove. Notice the chip in front from the joker trying to beat it on withhout the key and keyways being aligned. Probably with a steel hammer head.
Needless to say the front motor bearing is shot. Sheeesh!
I pulled the lower slave cylinder, outer pulley, and connecting bolt to find the shaft key loose in the space between. This after finding play in the pulley/motor shaft and noticing the belt was not correctly alinged between upper and lower pulleys. Unfortunately the rear pulley seems almost seized to the motor shaft. Rubber deadblow does not move the rear sheave in the least. Going a peach to remove. Notice the chip in front from the joker trying to beat it on withhout the key and keyways being aligned. Probably with a steel hammer head.
Needless to say the front motor bearing is shot. Sheeesh!
After dropping motor bracket and pulling the motor forward. I used a balljoint fork, 1/4" , and 1/2" shim plates to remove rear motor pulley. You can see why with all the burrs from being spun on the motor shaft.
I have no idea why someone would even mess with removing or trying to remove for any other than a motor swap or replacing pulley assembly.
Oviously some prior thought they should and didnt reassemble properly, which biffed the bearings and drive system.
It appears that it was mounted almost an inch from where it originally resided on the shaft.
So now we are starting to get a little costly. I have a replacement used pulley assembly in the works and thinking its probably a good idea to buy a new invertor duty div.1 class 2 motor. The vertical adjustment on the motor mount will help with a 145T frame swap and adapter plate to save a little bread. I previously was looking at and purchased a similar motor for my Enco 110-2034. One difference is that I'll stick with cast iron over aluminum and opt for WEG or similar. I've previously bought and liked Techtop for lighter applications. With a reeves drive, i'd rather go a bit heavier. I've used WEG for a lot of hydraulic applications and they stand up well.
We will see. Regardless, I still plan on cleaning up shaft, refurbing, and replacing bearings in the original.
Also tossing the idea around of just replacing the plastic bushing, removing the coating, and going with a bronze bushing. The question is SAE 841 or SAE 660? That would be around $40 instead of $350 for a used pulley assembly replacement.
And then there is modifying the drive and just using the motor, vfd, and timing pulleys.
I have no idea why someone would even mess with removing or trying to remove for any other than a motor swap or replacing pulley assembly.
Oviously some prior thought they should and didnt reassemble properly, which biffed the bearings and drive system.
It appears that it was mounted almost an inch from where it originally resided on the shaft.
So now we are starting to get a little costly. I have a replacement used pulley assembly in the works and thinking its probably a good idea to buy a new invertor duty div.1 class 2 motor. The vertical adjustment on the motor mount will help with a 145T frame swap and adapter plate to save a little bread. I previously was looking at and purchased a similar motor for my Enco 110-2034. One difference is that I'll stick with cast iron over aluminum and opt for WEG or similar. I've previously bought and liked Techtop for lighter applications. With a reeves drive, i'd rather go a bit heavier. I've used WEG for a lot of hydraulic applications and they stand up well.
We will see. Regardless, I still plan on cleaning up shaft, refurbing, and replacing bearings in the original.
Also tossing the idea around of just replacing the plastic bushing, removing the coating, and going with a bronze bushing. The question is SAE 841 or SAE 660? That would be around $40 instead of $350 for a used pulley assembly replacement.
And then there is modifying the drive and just using the motor, vfd, and timing pulleys.
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Thanks. Appreciate it. I have the new motor installed with an adapter plate.
Been busy working on a milling project and hope to get back on the Clausing here soon.
It would be ideal to make a new bearing for the lower sheave assembly. I have the material. But , i want see how it runs with the motor and connection being fixed. The plastic bushing and key is in good shape. The coating has a few cracks on the end and a wear groove where it would sit fully actuated.
I have a lot I want to do with refreshing the lathe, but would like to prioritize.
Been some time, but back working on this. I regret not pulling apart the clutch assembly and replacing bearings and at least assessing the sheave bushing.
Motor and lower sheaves are much better, but clutch and shaft assembly is a bit noisy now. The upper sheave bearing definitely needs replaced. I have ordered NOS SKF 6205-2Z JEM bearings to replace the upper shaft and sheave bearings. I already replaced the outboard bearings, but ordered enough to do all four just in case i biff the outboard shaft bearings removing them. The new motor, vfd, and motor mounts are working great. Once i get the drive system in line, I'll move on to the gearbox bushings and continue working my way down the lathe. Luckily i have another functional lathe to use in the interim.
Motor and lower sheaves are much better, but clutch and shaft assembly is a bit noisy now. The upper sheave bearing definitely needs replaced. I have ordered NOS SKF 6205-2Z JEM bearings to replace the upper shaft and sheave bearings. I already replaced the outboard bearings, but ordered enough to do all four just in case i biff the outboard shaft bearings removing them. The new motor, vfd, and motor mounts are working great. Once i get the drive system in line, I'll move on to the gearbox bushings and continue working my way down the lathe. Luckily i have another functional lathe to use in the interim.
I received the NOS SKF brearings. All sealed in good shape. I also ordered two new shaft bushings from Clausing. Im also kicking around the idea of fabricating new motor mount adapters. The bought adapters aren't bad, but I like the idea of adding more stiffness and mass with heavier material. The bought adapter is arount 10ga. formed steel. I'd like to bump it up to 1/4" flatbar with some 1/2" risers. If i figure the right width, i shouldn't need to worry about side to side alignment. Would be one less thing to worry about and provide a rigid base.
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