So, I got back in town in time to play a bit this evening. I worked my way though three tasks:
1. I installed the head counter-balance device. This is not a fun install. The spring must be preloaded so that it will do work at the top of the column, and applying the preload is no picnic. First I needed to drill a couple of half-inch holes in the column. These provide a place for 5/16 filister-head screws to project out of the top spring retaining ring just enough to retain it in the column, but not so much that the head can’t slide over it.
Notice the clamp just above the top pulley casting. That’s not in place when you buy it on eBay. But you wish it was
I also had to remove about 3” of the chain to keep it taut all the way to the top of the column. Newer versions use a cable instead of a chain, but both work.
Here it is installed:
It works, but it’s no replacement for a rack and pinion. But now I can grunt the head up and tighten the clamp instead of having to use a jack.
2.) I installed the 1140-RPM Marathon motor. I’m not entirely pleased by the result—the motor vibrates more than the original Dayton, but it may be because of wear in the motor-plate hinge pin. Or the bearings in the motor may be wiggling a bit. Wiring it up was routine. I also pulled the cover off the switch and confirmed that the machine was grounded properly.
I’m measuring 270 RPM on the slowest speed and 3700 RPM on the highest speed, pretty much as expected.
3.) I made use of the Martin 1-1/2 x 7/32 pin spanner, which fit the locking collar on the Jacobs 33-34c chuck perfectly. I pulled off the chuck, cleaned the taper, a rotated it around a quarter of a turn at a time to find the minimum runout. That was worth the effort—the TIR on a 0.450 gauge pin is now less than a thou.
With all that done, I drilled a couple of test holes in 1/8” CRS flat bar. It’s an easy test but the drill blasted through it like it was butter. I used Norseman Vortex drills to make a half-inch hole and a 7/64 hole. For the larger hole I bared down on the quill handle to see how it would handle high tool pressure. Speed was the slowest at 270 RPM. The hole took maybe two seconds. The chips were blue and with the sorts of curls one expects from the stepped configuration of the Vortex drills. The motor didn’t even slow down slightly.
For the small hole I used the highest speed of 3700 RPM, and pecked the hole. Still didn’t take more than five seconds. My old press would have drilled it oversized because of runout, but not this one. 7/64 is 0.109375, and the hole passed a 0.109 gauge pin with the slightest wiggle, but would not pass a 0.110- pin.
Here’s the final product, ready for use, with the casters I mentioned upthread. (The quill is still extended and locked for the picture above.)
Rick “old press will move along” Denney
1. I installed the head counter-balance device. This is not a fun install. The spring must be preloaded so that it will do work at the top of the column, and applying the preload is no picnic. First I needed to drill a couple of half-inch holes in the column. These provide a place for 5/16 filister-head screws to project out of the top spring retaining ring just enough to retain it in the column, but not so much that the head can’t slide over it.
Notice the clamp just above the top pulley casting. That’s not in place when you buy it on eBay. But you wish it was
I also had to remove about 3” of the chain to keep it taut all the way to the top of the column. Newer versions use a cable instead of a chain, but both work.
Here it is installed:
It works, but it’s no replacement for a rack and pinion. But now I can grunt the head up and tighten the clamp instead of having to use a jack.
2.) I installed the 1140-RPM Marathon motor. I’m not entirely pleased by the result—the motor vibrates more than the original Dayton, but it may be because of wear in the motor-plate hinge pin. Or the bearings in the motor may be wiggling a bit. Wiring it up was routine. I also pulled the cover off the switch and confirmed that the machine was grounded properly.
I’m measuring 270 RPM on the slowest speed and 3700 RPM on the highest speed, pretty much as expected.
3.) I made use of the Martin 1-1/2 x 7/32 pin spanner, which fit the locking collar on the Jacobs 33-34c chuck perfectly. I pulled off the chuck, cleaned the taper, a rotated it around a quarter of a turn at a time to find the minimum runout. That was worth the effort—the TIR on a 0.450 gauge pin is now less than a thou.
With all that done, I drilled a couple of test holes in 1/8” CRS flat bar. It’s an easy test but the drill blasted through it like it was butter. I used Norseman Vortex drills to make a half-inch hole and a 7/64 hole. For the larger hole I bared down on the quill handle to see how it would handle high tool pressure. Speed was the slowest at 270 RPM. The hole took maybe two seconds. The chips were blue and with the sorts of curls one expects from the stepped configuration of the Vortex drills. The motor didn’t even slow down slightly.
For the small hole I used the highest speed of 3700 RPM, and pecked the hole. Still didn’t take more than five seconds. My old press would have drilled it oversized because of runout, but not this one. 7/64 is 0.109375, and the hole passed a 0.109 gauge pin with the slightest wiggle, but would not pass a 0.110- pin.
Here’s the final product, ready for use, with the casters I mentioned upthread. (The quill is still extended and locked for the picture above.)
Rick “old press will move along” Denney
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