Need help with lathe dials

[Pevehouse]

You need to prove that, but I believe that yes, this is the case. You said you measured with a micrometer, you moved 0.100 inches, and you measured (with some tolerance) pretty much that same amount. That means, with the evidence provided, it APPEARS that your dial reads the tool movement. That means that your dial measures the actual depth of cut, which is based on the radius. I call those a radius dial. (Just like any other dial in the shop, it measures pretty exactly just how much you actually move). But then YOU have to remember that the "cut" is on both sides of a rotating workpiece, so to reduce a diameter by a given amount, you must cut half of that amount off of the radius of the part.

The other option is a "diameter dial". In that case, when you measured the travel with the micrometer, 0.100 inches, the micrometer would have told the tale that the TOOL only moved 0.050 inches. That dial halves you input every time. (Every gosh darn stinkin time......).

Either one is fine, you've just got to know which it is. And you'll be confronted with math either way. Try that out and see where it gets you.

That all makes perfect sense now. Thank you

 

[AllenV]

Here is the cross slide dial on my slightly newer (circa 2005) Enco 13x40. The markings are much more clear, particularly your ghostly decimal point. I have verified that this lathe cross slide reads in RADIUS. That is it reads the actual movement of the slide. The only difference between our machines would be that I have a 8 TPI cross slide screw yielding 0.125" per full revolution of the handle where you have a 10 TPI screw yielding 0.100" per full revolution.

FYI: I put a big sign on the wall behind the lathe reminding me that the lathe reads RADIUS. I need the reminder as I have scrapped a few items thinking wrongly.

 

[Pevehouse]

Here is the cross slide dial on my slightly newer (circa 2005) Enco 13x40. The markings are much more clear, particularly your ghostly decimal point. I have verified that this lathe cross slide reads in RADIUS. That is it reads the actual movement of the slide. The only difference between our machines would be that I have a 8 TPI cross slide screw yielding 0.125" per full revolution of the handle where you have a 10 TPI screw yielding 0.100" per full revolution.

FYI: I put a big sign on the wall behind the lathe reminding me that the lathe reads RADIUS. I need the reminder as I have scrapped a few items thinking wrongly.

Thank you, I appreciate the info. I figured someone out there would have an old Enco and be able to tell me more about it. Mine is a 1986 model

 

[Pevehouse]

Thank you, I appreciate the info. I figured someone out there would have an old Enco and be able to tell me more about it. Mine is a 1986 model

I love this lathe though. I think it has the potential to be extremely accurate with a little tinkering. I think I’m going to have to take this framing off the bottom of the lathe in order to properly level it. Right now I can’t get the twist out due to the frame stiffness. I will post a couple pictures to clarify things. Can you give me your opinion on that framing there?

 

[Janderso]

If ypu look carefully at the cross slide dial in the first photo, the metric scale is 2.54mm/rev. The lead screw pitch is .100"/2.54mm.

Leave it to RJ.
Always one of the smartest guys in the room!!

 

[RJSakowski]

Leave it to RJ.
Always one of the smartest guys in the room!!

I wish! It must be a small room.

 

[tq60]

Leave the frame there.

The lathe bed is stiff, you adjust a foot and give it a day or so the move.

No rush.

Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[AllenV]

I love this lathe though. I think it has the potential to be extremely accurate with a little tinkering. I think I’m going to have to take this framing off the bottom of the lathe in order to properly level it. Right now I can’t get the twist out due to the frame stiffness. I will post a couple pictures to clarify things. Can you give me your opinion on that framing there?

I think our bases are very similar. I don't believe my base is stiff enough to impart any sort of twist (corrective or otherwise) into the lathe bed. The advertised weight is at the very low end of bases for this size lathe.

So far (15 years) I have just set the lathe on the floor and used it. As is, it seems to make accurate parts. I do have plans to build a stiff base of heavy wall 2" square tubing, but that project keeps getting pushed behind others, like getting my '55 F100 restoration done.

Keep that rack under it. Let us (me) know what happens as you try to level it with those feet.

 

[Smithdoor]

Hi, I’m new to lathe work and need assistance figuring out my lathe dials. Been playing around but can’t seem to hit my numbers. It’s an older Enco lathe 12 x 36

In 1980's almost all manufacturers put dial on the the lathes.
Looks great
I had a new Colchester with that type dial . Finely replace dial with good old fashion and everyone was happy with lathe.

Rule of thumb on a dial a mark is 0.001 and .02mm

On a inch lathe screw 0.001" is 0.0254mm
On a metric lathe 0.02mm is 0.00078"
But just easier on finishe pass.

Dave