Need help figuring out how to use a rotary table operation.

D.sebens said:
So then for setting up the operation for the radius, do I start from 0,0 and move over to the side of the of the part and radius 180*?
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so you should start on the right side of your part so you are conventional milling. I use a sacrificial piece of AL or many times just a piece of thin wood (thin ply, thin paneling ) so I can cut through without damaging the table. Start the roughing further out and move in using light passes.
your initial passes won't come close to the sides of the piece. It's when you get close to size.
 
woodchucker said:
so you should start on the right side of your part so you are conventional milling. I use a sacrificial piece of AL or many times just a piece of thin wood (thin ply, thin paneling ) so I can cut through without damaging the table. Start the roughing further out and move in using light passes.
your initial passes won't come close to the sides of the piece. It's when you get close to size.
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Is your opinion to remove material step by step vs cutting the corner off with the end mill or is that so i can find the proper start and end point? I have 4 to make, I was hoping for a setup that only required changes in Z.
 
D.sebens said:
Is your opinion to remove material step by step vs cutting the corner off with the end mill or is that so i can find the proper start and end point? I have 4 to make, I was hoping for a setup that only required changes in Z.
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Do what you feel you can. I don't take it all off in one cut, it's just too much. You can either lower in using z or move in using x or y.
I recently drilled down from a few thou out, and then came back and cleaned it up.

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6x48 Dunlop Sander Guard

I've had this sander for years. I rebuilt it long ago. But It didn't have dust collection or a guard. I got it for woodworking, but now use it also for metal working. I had to prep some welds on 3" square tubing. I was getting pelted by metal. Time for a guard to prevent me from wearing all...
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each situation is different.
 
GeneT45 said:
Another good source, though not all wrapped up in a single video, is Inheritance Machining. I've learned a lot about rotab setups watching his videos.

GsT
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I’ve watched his also but I didn’t need to retain the info at the time so I forgot the specifics
 
Blondihacks also has a good video on using the RT to radius the ends of straps.
 
RandyM said:
Personally, for thin stuff like this (esthetic, not functional), I find it faster and acceptable to just scribe the radius on the part and use the belt sander.
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I would agree. If the radius doesn't have to be exact, I would cut the pieces into the appropriate size rectangles. Drill the holes. Then stack them together with a bolt. Use a washer on each end and pull them together with a nut. Use a radius gauge to layout and scribe the arc. Then off to the belt sander. That way they'll all be the same.

Here's an example of a set of radius gauges. They are made by several different companies and come in many different sizes. I have gauges as small as 1/16" and up to 6"

 
These are 1/4”. I don’t really want to do 1” thick of belt sanding. Thanks for the idea though!
 
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