Muzzle brake

[Gunnermhr1]

You are not wrong, but the biggest thing that people are missing is that the 45-70 is not your average rifle cartridge. The bullet is so heavy and slow moving that ALL of the recoil will already be in your hands BEFORE the bullet leaves the barrel. Unless you are shooting some very specialized handloads any kind of muzzle device will have very little if any effect on recoil.

If the recoil happens before the bullet leaves the barrel how can you possibly hit the target. I have brakes on everything from a 6BR to a 338 Edge, everyone reduces recoil.

 

[Shootymacshootface]

If the recoil happens before the bullet leaves the barrel how can you possibly hit the target. I have brakes on everything from a 6BR to a 338 Edge, everyone reduces recoil.

High pressure bottleneck cartridges are very different from low pressure straight wall heavy bullet cartridges. The 45-70 will actually shoot higher at a given distance (within reason) as you decrease the powder charge. The heavy slow bullet is in the barrel for an eternity compared to say a 6mm bench rest or a 300 win mag. This is called dwell time. The gun is already recoiling before the bullet leaves the barrel. And to compensate for that you lower the sights. Anyone that has done any cast bullet shooting would know this. Also, handgunners with longer barrels will notice this as well.
I hope that I don't sound snarky, just trying to explain.

 

[Gunnermhr1]

I appreciate your response, I'm a hunter and avid long range competitive shooter. I couldn't tell ya squat about straight wall cases.

 

[jbolt]

I would call Fred at Bullberry Barrel Works and pick his brain. He makes custom barrels for contenders with screw-on or integral brakes and would be able to tell you what does or does not work for your particular caliber and barrel. Very nice people.

I have brakes on a 10" .223 Contender barrel and a 15" 6.5 x47 Encore barrel. The 6.5 x47 is an integral brake and is minimally bored to remove the rifling. Both do an excellent job but I can't say I have ever seen one on a 45-70.

By drilling the barrel you are essentially shortening the barrel and will give up some velocity.

Check out this site for some awesome high speed photography of muzzle brakes. http://www.kuulapaa.com/home/highspeed.html

PBR has some good articles on muzzle brakes that would be worth reading. https://precisionrifleblog.com/2015/06/24/muzzle-brakes-field-test/

 

[seasicksteve]

Take a look at this site SSK The proprietor is a pioneer in hard hitting handguns and mitigating the recoil. His designs are very effective

 

[shell70634]

I've got all the equipment ready to include 5c collet to hold the barrel in the dividing fixture. Now I just have to draw out the plan and find the time. The plan is to fill the last 2 inches of bore with lead, crossdrill 6 rows of 4 holes and ream to final size. If this doesn't work I will make a screw on of the same design and thread onto the shortened barrel.
Thanx for the input,
Shelly

 

[lordbeezer]

My marlin 45-70 guide gun has factory holes at end of barrel..recoil is most definitely reduced.mild to mule stomper loads.my comparison is same rifle one with ports one without..and it's very accurate..I myself would make a separate recoil reducer then install on barrel.my .02 cents.

 

[seasicksteve]

OP not that you asked, but.... I have several contender barrels including 45-70, 444 marlin and 44 mag. If I were going to install an integral brake I would counterbore the rifling out where you plan to have ports. A short stiff boring bar fed in and face the crown at 90*. I have one that is done this way it has radial ports like the one you pictured but not the ports that run parallel to the bore, effective and accurate. Another option would be to couterbore to create an expansion chamber on the end of the barrel and use a internal thread to retain a cap that would screw into the end of the barrel. The cap would be bored to say .020" over bore dia. then add ports to the chamber area also very effective. Some food for thought

 

[mmcmdl]

Here's another one whipped up last week for the .338 Win Mag . Puts me up to about 7 to try this spring . I just fart around making these things at night for something to do , not knowing how they will work ( if they do at all ) , but , I'll definitely be wearing ear plugs this year . Last year , not only did I knock my shoulder into the next zip , I think I blew my ear drums out !

I will not thread the barrel of this rifle , just because it has a history at the Illion plant . If I thread it , I can't un-thread it . So taper locks for me .

 

[astjp2]

If you want a muzzle brake to be effective, you want an expansion chamber built into it. You can also get an internal hole deburring tool that will remove the burrs inside the brake. They are not cheap but a 5/32 or 3/16" one should work great. https://cogsdill.com/products/deburring-tools/

Simple, effective crosshole deburring of complex aerospace parts

In automated machining for aerospace, removal of burrs and sharp edges in cross-drilled holes and other difficult-to-access areas such as undercuts, grooves, slots, or internal holes can be tedious and time-consuming. One particular challenge is deburring

www.aero-mag.com