Muzzle brake

[dpb]

Even if there are no burrs around the holes, the edges will be very sharp and scrape the bullets.
I think that you will have to open up the bore slightly (say .020'') in the area of the brake holes to avoid that.

I realize that he would be making more holes, and larger ones, but gas operated rifles use a hole in the barrel to tap off gas, and accuracy can be excellent. Bullets are not damaged by passing the hole.

 

[shell70634]

I'm not sure accuracy would suffer. I have some very fine shooting magna-ported revolvers. I know noise will increase substantially. I would be afraid to try opening the bore in the vented area beacuse I wouldn't be able to visibly cut a new crown. If this doesn't work I'll chop the barrel a couple inches, thread it and install a convention muzzle brake.
Thanx for all the input. I retire next Wednesday and this is one of my first (of many) retirement projects.

Shelly

 

[38super]

Rule of thumb, work on the cheaper part. Thread your barrel, experiment with add on brake/compensator. You're stuck once your barrel is drilled.

 

[MarkDavis]

Congratulations on the retirement Shelly.

You might remember me under another name on the catsboolits forum, I sent you some brass, we had a nice chat on the phone as a hurricane was bearing down on you, and forest fires were getting after it here.

I wouldn't worry about bullet scraping on those ports, high speed gilding metal and hot gas will smooth them up pretty quick.

 

[shell70634]

This is really a training mission. I don't mind losing an inch or two of barrel if it doesn't work out.. A 14 inch barreled handgun can afford a couple inches.
Would a 5 or 10 degree angle toward the muzzle on the ports help with noise? Blast?

Hello Mark. I've got so many things I want to do that I don't know where to start. I want a load for this barrel that is confortable to shoot but with enough energy to be efficient in my 1895. 1895 loads in it now are a handful and tc loads in the 1895 are kinda wimpy.

Shelly

 

[MarkDavis]

I can't answer your questions with experience, but a muzzle break like this has a lot more surface area for the escaping gas to push on than smaller ports in the barrel does. www.google.com/search?q=muzzle+brake&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwjf8uOOxOjfAhUKilQKHXygATAQ_AUIDygC&biw=1093&bih
Getting some scrap steel and trying your hand at making something similar would be a great training mission too.
Doing it enough times to make it look good in your eyes, would give you quite a bit of skill before cutting into a perfectly good barrel.
I have an ruined AR-10 bolt carrier around here, in hindsight, I sure wish I had more skill before cutting into it!

 

[38super]

Folks either side will be blasted, enough to move a toupe' sometimes.

edit: Depends on your load (chamber pressure), poofta loads are less annoying.

 

[Shootymacshootface]

If it were I, doing this project, and performance was the goal (you finally hinted ar your objective) I would fabricate a Howitzer style brake. Search JP Enterprises muzzle brake. My load would be a 300gr jacketed bullet with a healthy load of 4198 powder behind it. A comp or brake needs a lot of gas behind the bullet to be effective.

Once you make a hole in the side of the barrel it will be very loud. You might as well make it effective as well.
Shooty

Also, all of the recoil would already be in your hand with a heavier bullet by the time it exited the barrel.

 

[wrmiller]

The projects I did like this were to reduce muzzle flip, like a compensator, not to act as a muzzle brake for recoil reduction. Modifications like this have been done for years to competition and hunting pistols with good success.

This modification doesn't do much to mitigate recoil though. For this a more traditional muzzle brake like those MarkDavis suggested would be more appropriate.

 

[shell70634]

This is what I had in mind except built into barrel.


I wonder if it will be effective with rifling all the way to muzzle.