Looking at this Bridgeport that is FAR away

"Someone who cares about you has decided that you may not open this page."

Who might that be?

Can you open CL at all?
Yes I can open Craigslist, and that is me that cares for me, that is me security software and if it detects ad bots of the spamming variety it throws that up. I have, in the past had those ads which pop up out of the blue and become darned irritating and I am not terribly interested in a repeat....
 
@joec2000 First, welcome aboard!

I think you are doing the right thing by looking at a knee mill. As others have pointed out, expanding your search to include other brands is good advice. I owned a PM833T and while it was "ok," it certainly did not have the rigidity. I ended up buying a Sharp LMV mill that I found on FB Marketplace. It was a HUGE step up in performance and rigidity and just made machining more enjoyable.
Without ill intent, please explain/describe/define your rigidity issues, how did they manifest themselves? I do not necessarily disagree with your statement but I hear the word "rigidity" thrown around a lot, I know what it means I am just not certain I get the specific context here. Is it lack of mass? bad joints? loose construction? or is it that one must take lighter cuts due to the physical limitation of the size and horse power of the machine?
 
It all adds up. I first machined on college Bridgeports. I bought a PM-30mv when setting up my shop. It’s a whole different thing. Even cuts with 1/2” end mill can be challenging on the small bench mill. Compliance in each of the axes and a lack of mass damping make a big difference in how the machine cuts and feels. I stumbled on a Taiwanese clone that had been in hobby service and it’s been great. It took some effort to clean up but doesn’t have very much wear, though the spindle bearings would benefit from either preload adjustment or replacement.
 
It all adds up. I first machined on college Bridgeports. I bought a PM-30mv when setting up my shop. It’s a whole different thing. Even cuts with 1/2” end mill can be challenging on the small bench mill. Compliance in each of the axes and a lack of mass damping make a big difference in how the machine cuts and feels. I stumbled on a Taiwanese clone that had been in hobby service and it’s been great. It took some effort to clean up but doesn’t have very much wear, though the spindle bearings would benefit from either preload adjustment or replacement.
I understand, what you are saying makes absolute sense.

I used a drill press as a mill for a while and it worked fine as long as I was patient, I could run a 3/4" mill with it as a facing tool, but a .002 Depth of cut was very challenging. And with a 1/2 or 3/8" end mill in aluminum .010 depth was it. I started that with a light table and it would hang and tear up the table so I bought a heavy Phase 2 two axis table and it helped a great deal. after the table I changed out the jacobs chuck for an ER-32 chuck which also made a vast improvement but you still had to have a great deal of patients.

This is why I asked 7milesup the questions, sometimes we (the imperial we) throw terms out which can be confusing and I am interested in better understanding the context.
@joec2000 First, welcome aboard!

I think you are doing the right thing by looking at a knee mill. As others have pointed out, expanding your search to include other brands is good advice. I owned a PM833T and while it was "ok," it certainly did not have the rigidity. I ended up buying a Sharp LMV mill that I found on FB Marketplace. It was a HUGE step up in performance and rigidity and just made machining more enjoyable.
 
I'm another in the camp that a knee mill is a far better choice. As for brand, Bridgeport is the one all others compare themselves to. They were the first in the field and by far the most common. There are a lot of other quality brands out there, but I'm not sure what support exists in the form of replacement parts or knowledge on repair procedures is concerned.

Personally, I wouldn't limit myself to a step pulley head, and I would avoid machines with the smaller 36" table. I would opt for either a 42" or a 49" table. I've had a Series 1 variable speed head machine in the shop well over 20 years and haven't needed to do anything but normal maintenance like cleaning and oiling. Even if at some point in time the head might need some work, they aren't that complicated, and parts are readily available. Places like H&W Machine Repair (https://machinerypartsdepot.com/) have kits available at reasonable prices, and they are more than happy to walk you through the process.

As for the time to find a quality machine I spent over 2 years and literally looked at hundreds of machines. I was originally looking for a Tree brand mill because those were the ones we used at work. I liked the size, rigidity, and features. Unfortunately, all those I found were either well past worn out, or way out of my budget. After a considerable time limiting myself to a Tree machine, I decided to expand the search to include other brands. The Bridgeport I finally purchased came from a local high school. It was in excellent shape, and had both metric and imperial dials on all axis. As Mathew mentioned shy away from those that have been used in a production situation. Those from job shops, fabricators, and schools are more likely to be in good shape.

As for chromed ways they are hard enough that flaking will exist for many years. MY mill was built in 1972. It doesn't have chrome ways, and the flaking is still visible in the area shown in your first post. That's usually the last place for it to wear off since the table isn't generally extended that far. In a production environment the machines are commonly setup to perform the same or similar procedures day after day. Wear is generally in one section of the X axis, and one section of the Y axis.

One thing to look for is a 1 shot oiling system. Oiling the head and table is a bit of a PITA, and it's hard to remember when it was last done unless you have a written maintenance schedule. Those without the oiler are far more likely to have wear issues due to lack of regular lubrication.

As far as price is concerned a used Bridgeport in good condition usually costs less than 20% of the list price of a new one, and around 30% of new offshore machines. In my opinion a used machine in good condition is far more cost effective for the hobbyist than any other option. Keep in mind tooling will cost at least as much as the machine, and depending on what you're doing may cost far more than the machine. Used Bridgeport tooling in good condition is far more common and far less expensive than tooling for most other brands.
 
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone - a lot to consider, for sure. I've got alerts set up on Craigslist and FB Marketplace and will keep my wad of cash in the safe for now lol.
 
I'm another in the camp that a knee mill is a far better choice. As for brand, Bridgeport is the one all others compare themselves to. They were the first in the field and by far the most common. There are a lot of other quality brands out there, but I'm not sure what support exists in the form of replacement parts or knowledge on repair procedures is concerned.
Great post....
 
Thanks for all the feedback, everyone - a lot to consider, for sure. I've got alerts set up on Craigslist and FB Marketplace and will keep my wad of cash in the safe for now lol.
I note there are a couple big machine auctions in Florida as well you might watch also.
 
Great post....
Agreed, and that was exactly my concern about buying a non-Bridgeport knee mill. These machines are 40-60+ years old and you can still get parts for them... that says a lot. I want to buy this once, cry once, and be done with it - not have buyer's remorse 10 years from now when something breaks and I can't find parts/advice.
 
Back
Top