Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe

[davidpbest]

I have been looking and understanding a little at a time, and have a question on a nose radius. I have a project that uses a knurl in 316 SS, and for aesthetic purposes I like to cut a band in the knurl. Without burning up inserts I am wondering if cutting the knurl would do better with the bigger radius of a K bit than a smaller radius of M, or MS bit 16 vs 04? These are just what I have on hand, I'm not sure what to look for in a dedicated bit for this operation.

I'm not understanding your question. Please elaborate. I assume you're machining the knurl with a knurling tool, right? Then you want to put decorative bands into it. I don't know what you mean by "bigger radius of a K bit than a smaller radius of M, or MS bit 16 vs 04?" Are you talking about a drill bit, an ISO grade on the carbide insert - what is a "K bit" and "M, or MS bit 16 vs 04"?

 

[rabler]

The intent was to actually save you money by avoiding the purchase of tools and inserts that don’t perform or are incorrectly specified.

David
I’m sure it will help me a lot, some very good info. But to be honest, I’m long past saving. lol

Honestly, it is the wasted time in trail and error saved that I’ll value most.

 

[Aukai]

Sorry David, the nose radius difference in the inserts like position seven, 16, and 04. I knurl a 2' length, and where I am going to drill through holes I clean out a band .500 wide through the knurl. I'm assuming the knurling process does a lot of things to the SS in this process. Hardening, interrupted surface and such. Looking at the inserts the cast iron insert has a bigger radius, vs the SS insert being sharper. I'm confusing myself now too....

 

[davidpbest]

Sorry David, the nose radius difference in the inserts like position seven, 16, and 04. I knurl a 2' length, and where I am going to drill through holes I clean out a band .500 wide through the knurl. I'm assuming the knurling process does a lot of things to the SS in this process. Hardening, interrupted surface and such. Looking at the inserts the cast iron insert has a bigger radius, vs the SS insert being sharper. I'm confusing myself now too....

I will DM you on this rather than sidetrack this thread. But if I were doing this, I would be using an indexable grooving or parting tool to remove the knurl in certain sections.

 

[jpackard56]

Just got David's book and could tell in the first few pages this clearly explains the things I'd been beating my head against the wall on !!!!
Thank you David for putting the time, research, experience, and dedication to helping others save ourselves from ourselves.
Absolutely well done.
In case of fire this is one of the books to grab as you leave the building !!
Thanks again,
Jim

 

[mksj]

I also have a copy of David's "Introduction to Indexable Tooling for the Metal Lathe" and just got through reading it. I was very impressed, wish a book like this had been available when I started to use indexable carbide tooling. It is clearly and concisely written, and well cross referenced between sections with great recommendations on tooling/inserts. It is a fantastic starting point for those getting into indexable carbide or never understood the differences and just stick with the same old thing. One thing that David has pointed out is each lathe will be different as to what works best and the importance of understanding the speeds, feeds and DOC for different materials for a specific carbide insert. This was proabably one of my biggest first mistakes is I was too conservative with my speeds and feeds, and the surface finish suffered in some materials. There are also some excellent videos which show how the tooling type, insert used and cutting parameters effect the cutting performance, two very nice videos (of many) discussing cutting performance and chip breaking are below.

Also want to thank David for all his contributions to the HM forum and helping others, as well as his hard work and long hours in putting this book together.

 

[Aukai]

Big time yes

 

[riversidedan]

$59 for a paper back???!!!!!!! holyrabafrabitz!!!!!! dont about anyone here but you could prolly learn more by actually playing with tool bits like " on the job training.

 

[Jake P]

$59 for a paper back???!!!!!!! holyrabafrabitz!!!!!!

That was my first thought too, $59!!!!!!!!

However, everything we purchase falls into the "economy of scale" equation.

I don't know how many of these books David will be able to sell, it's not a big market. And I don't know what his share is on each copy sold.

But I can say that I would be surprised if the effort that it took to create this resource can be fully paid back on the volume that will likely be sold.
I sincerely hope he makes some nice coin for the effort!
Just my take.

I can tell you that I've had mine for about a week. Haven't even received my lathe yet! But I've already learned enough (and I'm not even halfway through it yet) that I'm sure I will save, at the very least, the cost of the book by not making poorly informed purchases.

but you could prolly learn more by actually playing with tool bits like " on the job training.

OJT can be expensive when you are your own employer

 

[mikey]

$59 for a paper back???!!!!!!! holyrabafrabitz!!!!!! dont about anyone here but you could prolly learn more by actually playing with tool bits like " on the job training.

I have not seen David's book yet but I have some idea of the work it takes to assemble a fund of knowledge that book represents and his price is more than fair. Personally, I suspect he did it as a service to the hobby more than anything else. It is also my opinion that you can learn this stuff on your own ... maybe ... but it will take you a lot longer to do it. If I was a new guy starting out in this hobby, I would buy David's book and be way, way ahead of the game.