Dipping my toes into turning

[koenbro]

ELECTRONIC LEADSCREW

I am working on a Clough 42 ELS using a Teknic SDSK 23 servo motor. I installed the motor to the lead screw and auto-tuned it and now it spins smoothly under power (meaning through the ClearPath MSP tuning software). Had a bit of difficulty wiring it up (and posted separately about it) but it does spin now, after switching a few of the settings (thanks to this post). Will still need to attach the encoder then dial in the gear ratios. Once up and runnig will change to a fork of the Clough product that does threading to a shoulder.

 

[koenbro]

Finished the mechanical part of the ELS and there is enough clearance to put the cover back, after I made a cut out for the motor. the motor sticks out 3 1/4 inches from the cover or 2 inches over the chip tray. I might build a cage to protect it from being bumped.


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[Smithdoor]

Hello everyone, I am starting this thread to gather resources and ask questions about turning. I am about to put down the money for a new Eisen 1340 lathe. Have started to learn the basics of turning, by reading the SouthBend book by O'Brien and O'Brien. Have zero interest in grinding my own cutters, and would like insert tools, so have started reading @davidpbest 's superb book "Intro to Indexable Tooling."

Any advice to a novice? Anything about my choice of lathe I should know -- have not yet sent the money and have a last minute chance of walking back if a compelling reason emerges. By way of background, I looked at the usual hobbyist options (PM, etc) and have even toyed with buying a Hardinge from 1946 but as a complete and total noob, I cannot asses the wear and tear in an old lathe. So I have a strong preference to buying new Taiwanese, and not interested in old iron. Having bought a PM mill I am OK with them but am also ready to try smth different, hence looking at Eisen, which is probably similar in most regards, but slightly better value it seems. Initially wanted a 1324 but they are out so 1340 it is. Can not afford a 3-phase, thus will stay 220 V 1-ph.

Thanks in advance for all the help.

You find single phase is better .
Selling a person with 3 phase does care . But someone with only will pay more.
If ever need off generator single is a lot easier

Dave

 

[koenbro]

You find single phase is better .
Selling a person with 3 phase does care . But someone with only will pay more.
If ever need off generator single is a lot easier

Dave

Bought a single phase and converted it to a VFD plus 3phase motor. The thread above describes (part of) the journey.


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[Ultradog MN]

Finished the mechanical part of the ELS and there is enough clearance to put the cover back, after I made a cut out for the motor. the motor sticks out 3 1/4 inches from the cover or 2 inches over the chip tray. I might build a cage to protect it from being bumped.


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This is a little more than dipping one's toes into something. And Way cooler than turning.

 

[koenbro]

I just changed the oil and the instructions recommend 68 weight in the gear box and 32 weight in the apron. The 68 weight is labelled "way oil" but the 32 is called "hydraulic oil". Is the 32 the correct type of oil, or there types of the same weight that are more appropriate?

Thanks to @vk2024 who brought this to my attention in a private conversation.

 

[vk2024]

@koenbro : You would not believe the extent of my oily investigations. So here goes:

The 68(32) is the viscosity. Eisen appears to like more viscous oil in the headstock.

1. For now, let's talk about Mobil oils. There are the Named Series - Light, Medium/Heavy,... and the Numbered Series - like DTE-24 etc. The Numbered DTE series both contain anti-wear and anti-foaming and anti-rust compounds. The DTE series is intended for higher pressures which are likely not going to be experienced in the headstock. The anti-wear compounds act as a sacrificial layer over the moving gears.
2. In general, a detergent free, AW(AntiWear) 68/32 oil is all that is required.
3. Way oil isn't quite the same and is supposed to contain tackifiers to reduce stick-slip friction (also called stiction).

I might just go with Mobil DTE or Shell Tellus. I can report back once I talk to the Shell dealer tomorrow.

PS: Let me ***** a bit about the refusal of manufacturers to say whether they have or have not added detergent to their hydraulic fluid. I was looking at AW 68 from O'Reilly and Napa. Neither say if their fluid has detergent or not.

 

[koenbro]

Very helpful thank you. Seems that in addition to the way oil, I need to get 68-weight DTE oil. Will this item work?

 

[SouthernChap]

Very helpful thank you. Seems that in addition to the way oil, I need to get 68-weight DTE oil. Will this item work?

View attachment 504950

"Way oil", as far as I'm aware, is machinists' colloquial name for ISO68 weight oils.

ISO32 is also generally known as 'hydraulic oil' or 'hydraulic fluid' and is a lighter weight.

When using oils for lubrication for our purposes, people tend to use ISO 68 on sliding surfaces (thus the term 'way oil') and where adding lubrication regularly might be a PITA (so, in the absence of oilers for example, like along the length of the X axis lead screw on a lathe) and the thicker weight oil sticks to where its applied and stays there.

Headstocks generally have an oil bath/reservoir with oil fill points so the thinner ISO32 oil is more appropriate.

You can buy expensive Mobil oil if you want; It's good to use a machine tool manufacturers recommended product if you're unsure. Obviously you should always stick to the oil specification the machine tool manufacturer if you're buying from a different brand.

Generally speaking though, ISO68 (AKA way oil) is ISO68, and ISO32 (AKA hydraulic oil or hydraulic fluid) is ISO 32.

So you can buy ISO 68 oil or ISO 32 oil from a different brand and you'll be fine. Just make sure you're using the right weight oil in the right place as specified by the machine tool manufacturer.

As has been said though, avoid anything with detergents in it as these prevent chips from falling to the bottom of an oil bath and remaining there.

 

[mksj]

Way oil oil comes in various visosities, it has tachyfiers to help it stick to metal and not squeeze out, it is generally not rated as a gear or hydraulic oil unless stated as such. Vactra #2 ISO68 is not specified for gears, although it may be used as such with low speed gears, Vacuoline 1409 is also ISO 68 and rated for ways and gears. Many people also use hydraulic oil and gear oil interchangeably as the same, but there are differences. In most cases this is not an issue, but under more extreme conditions then it is a different story. Viscosity changes with temperature and also needs to be factored in.