Lathe Tool Holders

[verbotenwhisky]

Once you’ve started grinding your own you’ll be surprised at how quickly you start tweaking them to do exactly what you want. The feedback, good or bad, is essentially instant.

I like and have both Insets and HSS tooling. I have the plans for machining tangential HSS tool holders if anyone in interested.

 

[ltlvt]

My experience spindle speed and tool feed mean as much as the type of tool being used. In other words experimenting to see what is really causing the problem. things like tool push off and whether a steady rest or live center is being used. And yes tool design. Some will say a radiused tool will make a better finish than all others. There are many factors involved in a clean clear and consistent finish. if you do go to carbide inserts expect to run much higher spindle speeds than if using HSS. Practice is the solution to learning. You want to become a welder then buy a lot of welding rods and weld lots of scrap. Once you find that sweet spot remember it and rinse and repeat.

 

[gard]

Years ago, I have bought a set of some insert tooling with 3/8 shank (china, perhaps Grizzley) it was pretty much useless. More recently I got a insert tool cutoff holder I am pretty happy with. I almost entirely use HSS that I grind myself with a lantern tool post and armstrong tool holders. I have also seen some crap imported HSS bits that get dull very quick so if that is what you are seeing perhaps try one of higher quality.

 

[Huub Buis]

I prefer insert tools on my mini lathe, the small size CCMT060204, DCMT070204, TCMT110204. In general, they give a good finish. I also use HSS tools and they also do a great job.
To get a decent finish on the mini lathe, you have to make the setup as rigid as possible. Reduce stock stick out as much as possible, reduce tool stick out as much as possible.
Keep the tool above the tool post to reduce deflection, that rules out the use of most quick change tool holders.
Try to run de speed (RPM) as recommended for the tool and material. Reduce the feed (mm/rev) as much as possible to reduce the cutting forces. Reduce the cutting depth as much as possible to reduce cutting forces. As long as you make chips and don't rub, you can go down a little bit. Once you hear a smooth cutting sound and the finish is smooth (don't need to be shiny), you can increase the feed and cutting depth to find settings that work for your lathe, your setup, your tool(s) and your material.
For difficult materials (some steel, stainless) I use CCGT060204, DCGT070202, and type inserts. These are designed for aluminum, are ground, polished and very sharp. They give a good finish on almost any modest cutting condition and last pretty long even when used on steel.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

Years ago, I have bought a set of some insert tooling with 3/8 shank (china, perhaps Grizzley) it was pretty much useless. More recently I got a insert tool cutoff holder I am pretty happy with. I almost entirely use HSS that I grind myself with a lantern tool post and armstrong tool holders. I have also seen some crap imported HSS bits that get dull very quick so if that is what you are seeing perhaps try one of higher quality.

I bought insert tooling from Precision Mathews when I bought my lathe and it performed okay, but when I bought the better inserts the performance improved. It wasn't the insert holders, it was the inserts, quality cost money.

 

[gard]

In my case, years ago, the insert holders were not hardened, they bend and deformed under the carbide, the screws broke, it was all pretty frustrating. I saw the same thing with a set of turning holders and the boring bar. I may try buying some more holders, seems like choices are a little more limited in the 3/8 shank size.
I will admit I have bought some stuff from china that I am happy with but often assume something will need to be fixed, I never did try heat treating the grizzly holders.

 

[GeneT45]

I bought insert tooling from Precision Mathews when I bought my lathe and it performed okay, but when I bought the better inserts the performance improved. It wasn't the insert holders, it was the inserts, quality cost money.

I definitely agree that the inserts matter most - most toolholders are at least adequate, particularly for hobby use.

OTOH, I'd say quality is TBD. If you buy exclusively top brands, you're likely to get quality inserts (better still if you picked them according to the task at hand). OTOH, I have run across some *really* good, cheap inserts. (And quite a few that were not so good, or even good at all...) Still, the fact remains that there do exist some really good inserts for cheap. By way of qualifying that statement, when I say "really good", I'm comparing to inserts from Kennametal, Iscar, Seco, Interstate (really not that great), Hertel, and probably a few others.

GsT

 

[Huub Buis]

I make most of my insert tool holders using mild steel that I don't harden. None of my (hobby) lathes is capable of bending the external holders under normal roughing conditions. I expect them to last a hobby life time.

If you have a really rigid lathe, the flexibility of the tool holder can make a difference.

 

[verbotenwhisky]

I definitely agree that the inserts matter most - most toolholders are at least adequate, particularly for hobby use.

OTOH, I'd say quality is TBD. If you buy exclusively top brands, you're likely to get quality inserts (better still if you picked them according to the task at hand). OTOH, I have run across some *really* good, cheap inserts. (And quite a few that were not so good, or even good at all...) Still, the fact remains that there do exist some really good inserts for cheap. By way of qualifying that statement, when I say "really good", I'm comparing to inserts from Kennametal, Iscar, Seco, Interstate (really not that great), Hertel, and probably a few others.

GsT

I just bought inserts for my Iscar parting blade .060 thick and paid 12 buck a peace for them...

 

[mmcmdl]

I just bought inserts for my Iscar parting blade .060 thick and paid 12 buck a peace for them...

And ? Were they Iscars ?