@koenbro KINDA IMPORTANT do not use high pressure lubricating oil that is
sulfated. This will destroy all the bronze in your headstock, and in a short time. This is due to copper and zinc depletion.
Now for @Koenbro,@ vk2024, and
@SouthernChap -
listen to @mksj - way oil is a specific formulation (yes, with tackifiers) to spread out on, and stick to, surfaces in any orientation. You can buy way oil in 32, 68, and 80 ISO. It is just fine to use in a gear box, but not what it was formulated for. Often high end lathes use a full bath apron, with way oil in it, and a pump to pump from the apron for the ways to lubricate them, along with the lead screw.
So using way oil won't do your lathe any harm, as long as you use the right viscosity (32 or 68)
@SouthernChap - sadly hydraulic oil is available in all the viscosities imaginable. from 20 and below, up to over iso90. hydraulic oil is a formulation, that prevents oxidization, foaming (very bad) and to reduce decomposition of the oil under the sliding pressure of the spur gears. Sadly way oil doesn't have those additives, but features other additives.They are about as different as baby oil and motor oil.
[updare - my apologies, sseveral above have already commented on this. I had the update ready, and was called away, then hit 'save. sorry about that]
Lastly,
@vk2024 your hydraulic oil had
better not have detergent in it. Most counter staff won't know anything about these issues. You need to talk to an
oil engineer. I have had great talks with engineers from Shell, Esso and our local oil blender/refinery. There has to be antifoaming additives in hydraulic oil, and they may contain additives to suspend particles to get them to the filter usually not detergent, but a floculating agent or other binder to suspend the metal particles. In a hydraulic system, it is good to circulate the particle to the filter. In an enclosed gear assembly, such as a headstock or apron, it isn't ideal but the additional wear is negligible. Putting some rare earth magnets in the bottom of the gearbox (well away from the gears) will take care of any suspended particles.
I don't use gear oil in my gearboxes. They are often missing antioxidants, as gear boxes are most always sealed from the atmosphere (or very limited air exchange). The interval to change the oil is too short for me. These things are always trade offs.
I use Tonna 68 for all my way oil needs, and inexpensive ISO hydraulic oil for all my gear boxes. (any reputable way oil and hydraulic oil will substitute nicely) I buy them in 5 gallon pails, and that encourages me to replace the oil more often than if I had to run out to buy oil for a change. And having 3 lathes and 4 mills helps up the requirement.
) in my rebuilt Chinese 7x headstock. I can either put zerks in the top of the headstock above the gears, or oilers.
. Yes, I agree. I plan to use the Shell 32 in the apron, Mobil DTE 26 in the headstock and Vactra 2 on the ways. How does one even find these oil engineers? People at the stores have zero clue. I was looking at AW 68/32 formulations from Napa, but the MDS and the SDS say nothing about sulfuration or detergent. I was aware of the detergent issue.
