Hints and Tips

When pouring solvent, from a metal can, I always orient the spout in the upper corner. This allows you to pour without gurgling or splashing. I have no problem pouring even a few ml. from a full can.
Yes but it still tough to hit the mark,this makes it so much easier and avoid spills
 
I had the task of turning tenons on 1/2" square HR steel and I purchased a 1`/2" sq. 5C collet for my collet chuck. The stock had to be inserted through the tailstock which presented some difficulty in aligning it with the collet. I turned a piece of Delrin to fit the back of the collet and drilled a .720" hole (the diagonal of the 1/2" bar is ,707"). and the cut a heavy chamfer on the end. With a modest chamfer on the end of the stock, this provides to easy centering of the of the stock.

The bushing can remain in the collet but it is easily removed should I need ever to use a collet stop. A collet stop on lathe is rather useless anyway as minor variations or tightening of the collet chuck will result in different stickout from the spindle.
 
Yes but it still tough to hit the mark,this makes it so much easier and avoid spills
esp pouring from a gallon into a quart or pint, which is why I flared the tube. it will hook onto the spout of the can being filled.

thinking about doing another cap with a very small tube, like 3/16" or something. would be great for sprinkling small amounts over something.
 
minor variations or tightening of the collet chuck.
Which is why I will use a torque wrench if/when I ever use the 5C kit I have. Constant, known tightening torque takes out one variable, along with using a collet stop which should help.... I hope!
 
Which is why I will use a torque wrench if/when I ever use the 5C kit I have. Constant, known tightening torque takes out one variable, along with using a collet stop which should help.... I hope!
I've never noticed any real issue in this realm that couldn't be chalked up to one or two of several factors, with the human factor coming in first.

Having said that, I'm talking .001", not .0001".

I also don't see how 3 different objects coming to a locked state could impart any variances if done with repeatable methods regardless of torque.
 
I've never noticed any real issue in this realm that couldn't be chalked up to one or two of several factors, with the human factor coming in first.

Having said that, I'm talking .001", not .0001".

I also don't see how 3 different objects coming to a locked state could impart any variances if done with repeatable methods regardless of torque.
Of course torque matters, it does help in getting the setting the same, but that requires everything being equal. I believe that the torque can be a factor.
 
I've never noticed any real issue in this realm that couldn't be chalked up to one or two of several factors, with the human factor coming in first.

Having said that, I'm talking .001", not .0001".

I also don't see how 3 different objects coming to a locked state could impart any variances if done with repeatable methods regardless of torque.
Joe Pieczynski did a video on this very subject.
 
Edited, were not seeing eye to eye.
 
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I had the need to drill more than 100 1/2" holes in 1/2" steel which resulted in a lot of sharp curly swarf. I have a dozen neodymium coin magnets that I stuck together and placed in a 10" length of 3/4" CPVC pipe that has a PVC end cap glued in. I added a 5/8" dia. x 10" steel barto pull the magnets out of the pipe. Finally, I cut a hole in a cap from my Gillette Edge shaving gel for a tight fit on the CPVC pipe.

To use, I gather up a load of swarf and to dump the load, I pull the bar with magnet stack up past the cap. The cap prevents and swarf from following the magnet any further and it falls into the trash bin.
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The lowly wood toothpick is a multi-tool. Used one again today to plug some machine tag holes before painting.
 
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