- Joined
- Nov 25, 2015
- Messages
- 9,765
And yet another use for all of those oversized postcards we will be getting the next few weeks (not as sturdy as Masonite, but perfect for a couple of smaller drawers).Finally figured out a better way to do drawer liners.
Just make a template, rather than using a square. Cut up a piece of masonite on the tablesaw.
goofed, the 1/8 sheet got caught under the fence.. glued a fresh repair on and recut.
Now perfect drawer liners.
View attachment 505927View attachment 505928
That's very odd. I have done exactly what you have with Rustoleum and never had an issueDo not add mineral spirits to your unused paint. I have just discovered another can of paint that went bad. This time Rustoleum. I have never had a can of Rustoleum go bad. The common denominator might be my adding Mineral Spirits to the remaining can to prevent skim over. Not that I know that it helps. But just believing it couldn't hurt before sealing the can up again. It looks like the same problem I had with the Sherwin Williams can. The paint looks congealed/ curdled, very finely. The only thing I can think of is that I added MS. I recently started doing that thinking it's thinner, it can't hurt it... But I think it might be the cause of the problem.
It may depend on the type of MS: "real" or the new fangled low odor, etc. versions.That's very odd. I have done exactly what you have with Rustoleum and never had an issue
This is supposedly real. But who knows. It says 100% Mineral Spirits.It may depend on the type of MS: "real" or the new fangled low odor, etc. versions.
I usually don't have a lot of oil-based paints, but those I do have (to make repairs to a room) that have skinned over I just take to the paint store, have them remove the skin and out the sealed can on their shaker. Some times they have added thinner of some type, but usually not. Since the skin is just semi-cured paint, it hasn't affected the color of the remaining paint.
Neat solution, RJ: I’ll have to file this one away.I needed to replace the plastic handle on the jack on my boat trailer. The old plastic was secured by riveting a washer on the end of the crank. Rather than riveting, I decided to tap the end of the shaft for a 1/4-28 screw. The problem was drilling and tapping a hole concentric with the shaft, using my cordless drill.
My solution was to turn a 2" length of 3/4" diameter rod and drill a .156" thru hole and counterbore a 1/2" x 1" on one end to fit the handle shaft. I slid the jig on the shaft and drilled a pilot hole 1" deep in the end of the shaft. Then I drilled the thru hole in the jig to .213 diameter , the tap drill size for 1/4-28, slid the jig on the shaft and drilled my hole. Finally, I drilled the thru hole in the jig to .251, the clearance diameter for the 1/4-28 tap, slid the jig on the shaft and used it for a tap guide to ensure that the tap followed the drilled hole.
This is an excellent way to drill a concentric hole in a shaft when you can't bring the shaft to the machine.
i slid
I have been led to believe that the type/style/brand of suspender is a significant consideration as some are very comfortable and others - well, not so much. Unfortunately, none of them are worth a darn at carrying a holster, so it's still a belt, or perhaps belt and suspenders for me.If you're old enough to not care how fashionable you are these days.
Consider suspenders. I have to say it's a huge difference not having your pants drop all the time.
Phone, wallet, daily carry knife, sometimes change, many times a tape measure in the shop (woodchuck here).
It's just so nice having your pants where you want them, not dragging your underwear with it, and then when you pull up your pants, your underwear strangles your crown jewels. Since using suspenders, I have been so much more comfortable.