Gorton P1-2 weird spindle?

Choiliefan said:
Can this particular model Gorton do 1:1 ratios? Thanks!
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Yes. You set the adjustment bars for 2:1, then move the stylus/tracer and collet to the middle position on the arm.

Honestly, it's a pain to not have any reduction, and every tiny jiggle while tracing shows up in the work, so I try to avoid it.
 
Ok… got a new spindle on the way. Comes with one collet (unknown size). Paid $400 for the spindle and $800 for the P1-2

I have a lead on a slotted copy table that holds the master fonts. But it’s off a 3U. Are the copy tables interchangeable between P1-2 and the 3U?

Also… anyone know of a wide low profile vise like on the New Hermes Engravograph? For doing name plates and plastic 2” x 10” name plates. I was practicing on my Gorton and accidentally went through the work and engraved the table. I’m never engraving directly on the table again!

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Rex Walters said:
Yes. You set the adjustment bars for 2:1, then move the stylus/tracer and collet to the middle position on the arm.

Honestly, it's a pain to not have any reduction, and every tiny jiggle while tracing shows up in the work, so I try to avoid it.
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I might try to do 1:1 for making extra master fonts. I’ve noticed the jiggle in my practice work. I think I need to make some more stylus tips on the lathe to fit the master fonts better. My current stylus is too fine and has too much play in the masters.

I think I might make a Russian alphabet master set too since I’m currently learning Russian. Just for fun.
 
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Defender92 said:
My current stylus is too fine and has too much play in the masters.
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Yes, you want the bevel of the stylus tip to match that of the copy. Too wide of a bevel is better than too narrow. The greater the reduction, the less any tracing wobble matters — but those letters were pretty painful to look at! (Not to mention cutting into your table!)

Speeds and feeds still matter, and cutting oil also helps. It’s much harder to get decent results in gummy aluminum than engravers brass or plastic. A sharp cutter shouldn’t raise much of a burr, though.

The tip of the cutter matters, too. The “tipping off” of the point on a stone that John mentioned determines what the bottom of the cut trench looks like. A dead sharp cutter will break down quickly, but is capable of hairline engraving only a few thou deep. Deeper/wider/bolder lettering is best with a wider tip on the cutter.

It looks like you’re cutting far to deep in general.

I generally cut 0.007” to 0.014” deep when engraving letters. Always indicate the four corners of your engraving area before starting — you want to know if there is any falloff and correct accordingly, or some parts of your copy will be deeper (and look wider/bolder) than others. Thousandths of an inch matter!
 
Defender92 said:
But it’s off a 3U. Are the copy tables interchangeable between P1-2 and the 3U?
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post a picture of your table, it should fit. Here’s mine a 3U.
 

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Rex Walters said:
Yes, you want the bevel of the stylus tip to match that of the copy. Too wide of a bevel is better than too narrow. The greater the reduction, the less any tracing wobble matters — but those letters were pretty painful to look at! (Not to mention cutting into your table!)

Speeds and feeds still matter, and cutting oil also helps. It’s much harder to get decent results in gummy aluminum than engravers brass or plastic. A sharp cutter shouldn’t raise much of a burr, though.

The tip of the cutter matters, too. The “tipping off” of the point on a stone that John mentioned determines what the bottom of the cut trench looks like. A dead sharp cutter will break down quickly, but is capable of hairline engraving only a few thou deep. Deeper/wider/bolder lettering is best with a wider tip on the cutter.

It looks like you’re cutting far to deep in general.

I generally cut 0.007” to 0.014” deep when engraving letters. Always indicate the four corners of your engraving area before starting — you want to know if there is any falloff and correct accordingly, or some parts of your copy will be deeper (and look wider/bolder) than others. Thousandths of an inch matter!
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lol. I know. It looks terrible. But I’m still learning. I didn’t realize how deep it was engraving when I dropped the spindle. I swear it was just barely touching when I checked it.

Thanks for the advice I’ll definitely need it as I continue to learn.
 
That’s pricey but if it’s the only one what can you do, you might want to look for one being parted out or make your own table.
 
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