G0709 Review

LOL okay what's wrong with this picture...yes that cord grip on the right is gripping nothing but thin air :cautious:. It's way too large for that small cable and the cable moves freely in/out. I'll have to order up a new cord grip.

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Are you done yet? Are you done yet? Are you done yet? Been retired 2 years now and still raises my blood pressure. When I was young it was "It has to be done right" now it's "It has to ship Friday"
Oh for shops that require management to work on the floor during their trial period . . . I was very fortunate in the time I worked on aircraft. Management had either done it or managed it for long enough to known what was normal inspection and repair as needed and the time needed for a job, or a mess and it will take what it takes.

Close friend in final production often had to deal with engineer management who had a tough time understanding tolerance stack and why components wouldn't fit in the damn rack. Surprise, management had high turn over, so it was an endless cycle of explaining how much other shop's bad management impacted what they did and why they spent so much time to fix the mess.
 
LOL okay what's wrong with this picture...yes that cord grip on the right is gripping nothing but thin air :cautious:. It's way too large for that small cable and the cable moves freely in/out. I'll have to order up a new cord grip.
I bet 4 - 10 layers of heat shrink will fix it right up. <smile>
 
You got a lot of lathe for the price. But it was built to meet that price. Hopefully the parts that really matter are built to sufficient levels to do what is needed. I have a Chinese lathe, PM1440HD. It had some things that were sloppy in design and or execution. Most I got fixed the rest didn't matter all that much. It has run fine for 8 years. I seeps oil because of a poorly designed gasket surfaces. Same dumb design as British motor cycles.
I knew when I bought it that it was built to a price point. It has exceeded my expectations.
 
The purpose of the strain reliefs is probably more to protect the cable from the metal box, not to provide a strain relief or resistance to fluids. There is nothing in the lower holes that the cables go through. Rather than mess with pulling cables and rep;acing the strain reliefs, slit a small piece of rubber tubing, slide over the cable and up into the gland and tighten. Only reason to have a functioning strain relief is if someone is pulling off the control cabinet and not disconnecting the cables, Oh forgot that is what you are doing. Not how I do my electrical cabinet builds, as I size the gland to be able to provide some resistance to cable pullout.
 
You got a lot of lathe for the price...I knew when I bought it that it was built to a price point. It has exceeded my expectations.
Exactly. I saved about $2k going with the Grizzly lathe vs similar lathes from other companies. While that means I'm likely to have to deal with some quality issues like this batch of annoying but minor issues in this thread, in return I have the $2k saved for upgrades. The made in USA Baldor motor. Higher end DRO. Dorian QCTP and tool holders etc.

Speaking of motors...I was taking measurements of the Grizzly and Baldor motors today as part of designing a new motor mount for the Baldor. The Grizzly motor is a bit stiff and it feels like it's dragging, kind of a metal on metal drag. Give it a spin and it comes to a stop fairly quickly. The Baldor is night and day better. Very smooth and you can't feel anything as it turns. Easier to turn and spins longer.
 
The purpose of the strain reliefs is probably more to protect the cable from the metal box, not to provide a strain relief or resistance to fluids. There is nothing in the lower holes that the cables go through. Rather than mess with pulling cables and rep;acing the strain reliefs, slit a small piece of rubber tubing, slide over the cable and up into the gland and tighten. Only reason to have a functioning strain relief is if someone is pulling off the control cabinet and not disconnecting the cables, Oh forgot that is what you are doing. Not how I do my electrical cabinet builds, as I size the gland to be able to provide some resistance to cable pullout.
Installing the proper size cord grip will take no more than 5 minutes, there's only 3 wires to unscrew. It's not a strain relief in this application it's a cord 'grip'. To prevent hooking the cord on something and ripping the wires loose inside the electrical cabinet. Highly unlikely that will happen here but there's no reason to leave it half assed.
 
I saw these massive leveling pads on somebody else's G0709 lathe. As the lathe is very top heavy and we do get the odd earthquake on the west coast I thought this was a good idea. They would significantly reduce the tippy'ness.

So I choked on the cost ($80 each) and ordered 6 of them. UPS damaged shipment, they returned the package to Grizzly. I had Grizzly send them a 2nd time, again UPS damaged the shipment and returned them to Grizzly ugh! So I gave up.

Then a few days later a single leveling pad showed up at my door. lol I contacted Grizzly and they didn't want it back.

Another week goes by and bang these $80 leveling pads go on sale for 50% off with free shipping. :oops: So1 free and 5 at 50% off I'll take that deal. The other 5 arrived today!

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You got a lot of lathe for the price. But it was built to meet that price. Hopefully the parts that really matter are built to sufficient levels to do what is needed. I have a Chinese lathe, PM1440HD. It had some things that were sloppy in design and or execution. Most I got fixed the rest didn't matter all that much. It has run fine for 8 years. I seeps oil because of a poorly designed gasket surfaces. Same dumb design as British motor cycles.
I knew when I bought it that it was built to a price point. It has exceeded my expectations.
I have had an 8X12 Harbor Freight lathe for several years now. I've fixed/improved several things and honestly I like it. However, this little quality control oversight tends to bother me the most.
 

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