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Mag1 iso 32, Ace Hardware carries it by the gallon. My other choice was generic tractor hydraulic oil, about half the price but who knows what's in that stuff and I didn't want to deal with a 5 gallon pail.
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G0709 Review
- Thread starter coolidge
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Well I got everything ready to begin the test run and break in and...NOPE! I press the start button and nothing. For north of $7,000 that is unacceptable!
Now I remembered reading about 2-3 others who had the same issue with their new G0709. The thread was from 2016. Their issue was an incorrectly installed/adjusted foot brake safety switch. I'm 99% sure that's my issue as one of the quirks is, if you hold the start button in you can jog the chuck and I can do that. So tomorrow I'll have to get down on my belly and get at that switch from the tiny cabinet opening.
Grizzly it's sad that 8 years ago these lathes had this quality problem and they still do, pathetic.
Now I remembered reading about 2-3 others who had the same issue with their new G0709. The thread was from 2016. Their issue was an incorrectly installed/adjusted foot brake safety switch. I'm 99% sure that's my issue as one of the quirks is, if you hold the start button in you can jog the chuck and I can do that. So tomorrow I'll have to get down on my belly and get at that switch from the tiny cabinet opening.
Grizzly it's sad that 8 years ago these lathes had this quality problem and they still do, pathetic.
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Fixed and up and running. Here it is from the factory, this had no hope of ever working. Makes you wonder how they completed the 18 point FAKE inspection report measurements when it won't even power on...things that make you go hmmm 
Even jammed up against the frame the actuator on the foot brake bar is too far out from the limit switch. I'm guessing at some point they switched limit switches and didn't account for the new one being much slimmer. The proper fix here would be to put a 1/4 inch spacer behind the limit switch to bring it back out in line with the actuator. While they are at it, do themselves a big favor and move the switch up about 3/4 inch. See that bottom screw holding the limit switch on, you can't get a screwdriver on it, not even close the cabinet is in the way.
Off to the hardware store. That factory acorn above is really small, like 1/4 inch diameter. Here I basically double the size. Look at the above acorn size vs the hex nut, now my modification vs the same hex nut.
Fixed and adjusted so maybe 1/2 or so step on the footbrake activates the limit switch. This switch is normally open, so adjusted like this it's closed and the circuit is complete. If you step on the break it opens this switch and opens the circuit triggering the lathe to shut down.
On a positive note that actuator collar on the shaft is quite nice and beefy. It's sad that they are too lazy and lame and don't care how they put stuff together.
Even jammed up against the frame the actuator on the foot brake bar is too far out from the limit switch. I'm guessing at some point they switched limit switches and didn't account for the new one being much slimmer. The proper fix here would be to put a 1/4 inch spacer behind the limit switch to bring it back out in line with the actuator. While they are at it, do themselves a big favor and move the switch up about 3/4 inch. See that bottom screw holding the limit switch on, you can't get a screwdriver on it, not even close the cabinet is in the way.
Off to the hardware store. That factory acorn above is really small, like 1/4 inch diameter. Here I basically double the size. Look at the above acorn size vs the hex nut, now my modification vs the same hex nut.
Fixed and adjusted so maybe 1/2 or so step on the footbrake activates the limit switch. This switch is normally open, so adjusted like this it's closed and the circuit is complete. If you step on the break it opens this switch and opens the circuit triggering the lathe to shut down.
On a positive note that actuator collar on the shaft is quite nice and beefy. It's sad that they are too lazy and lame and don't care how they put stuff together.
Last edited:
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What's crazy is I thought things would slow down after I retired yet I'm busier than ever. lol
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Same here! I had some co-workers who said that they had nothing to do. I quickly discovered the opposite, though A LOT of what I have to do is stuff I don't want to have to do!
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She's got an OIL LEAK fantastic! 
I performed the break in last night. 2 hours 40 minutes and all seemed to go well. Then this morning I saw a puddle of oil (very small) on the floor under the motor. Short version, the headstock top cover leaked oil down between the back of the headstock and electrical panel. The rest dripped down on top of the motor and motor bracket. Nice mess way to go Grizzly, FAIL! It's clear China continues to not care one iota about quality.
I tightened all the top cover screws, I'm going to see if that stops the leak. Also I'll make Grizzly send me a new gasket. You know better the top cover leaking than around one of the many shafts right.
Here's the GOOD NEWS...turns out the electrical box can be repositioned several inches higher up. There's plenty of slack in the wiring. That would get it up out of the way of the new Baldor motor electrical junction box. Probably would not have occurred to me to move the electrical panel up unless I had this oil leak issue and removed the panel. Looking on the bright side...
I performed the break in last night. 2 hours 40 minutes and all seemed to go well. Then this morning I saw a puddle of oil (very small) on the floor under the motor. Short version, the headstock top cover leaked oil down between the back of the headstock and electrical panel. The rest dripped down on top of the motor and motor bracket. Nice mess way to go Grizzly, FAIL! It's clear China continues to not care one iota about quality.
I tightened all the top cover screws, I'm going to see if that stops the leak. Also I'll make Grizzly send me a new gasket. You know better the top cover leaking than around one of the many shafts right.
Here's the GOOD NEWS...turns out the electrical box can be repositioned several inches higher up. There's plenty of slack in the wiring. That would get it up out of the way of the new Baldor motor electrical junction box. Probably would not have occurred to me to move the electrical panel up unless I had this oil leak issue and removed the panel. Looking on the bright side...
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On a brighter note, I got the oi drained from the headstock post break-in. Taped a funnel to the side of the headstock and right into the drain pan easy. I fished around in there with a strong magnet but pulled out nothing.
Double checking what you fished around in with the magnet... the pan of drained oil? Or the bottom of the headstock itself?
Most of the casting and machining crud in mine was sunk to the bottom of the headstock, below the drain plug height in the last quarter or half inch of oil that doesn't come out because it's below the height of the drain plug. There was an absolute ton of it.
My lathe isn't a Grizzly, but it's just as Chinese so I'd put a magnet past the gears all the way to the bottom of the headstock and check the bottom and all the corners.
If they really got it squeaky clean in the there... good on them. It should be.
Most of the casting and machining crud in mine was sunk to the bottom of the headstock, below the drain plug height in the last quarter or half inch of oil that doesn't come out because it's below the height of the drain plug. There was an absolute ton of it.
My lathe isn't a Grizzly, but it's just as Chinese so I'd put a magnet past the gears all the way to the bottom of the headstock and check the bottom and all the corners.
If they really got it squeaky clean in the there... good on them. It should be.
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I have an extended reach magnet you can bend into different shapes. I bent it into a hook and fished around the bottom. Went in 4-5 inches, no metal.
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