Dual voltage motor growling

[captnbob45]

I recently bought a Craftsman/Atlas lathe with a 1hp Baldor dual voltage motor on it. It had a 110v plug on it when I bought it. After finally being able to read the data tag I was able to confirm it was dual voltage. Since all the equipment in my shop runs n 220v I thought I would convert it also After lots of searching I thought I had found a diagram that was correct. But when I started it on 220v it growls and vibrates . It is an older motor so I'm not sure if I have it wired right or not. It does run fine on 110v. I have searched the net but not found anything with this problem. Any help??

 

[markba633csi]

Lots of online info is either incorrect or doesn't apply
Show us what you got- motor data plate and switch(s)
Post the model # too if possible

 

[captnbob45]

Here are some pictures of what I have and the diagram I used for the 220V wiring. The motor works fine with low voltage, as I have it wired now, but growls and vibrates when wired for the high voltage as this diagram shows. I have not found a wiring diagram specific to this motor. Thanks for the replies.

 

[Ulma Doctor]

The motor is tapped for 110v
For 220v operation, remove the bus bars from both poles.
Use the bus bars to jump the connection between the two studs closest to the rotor, in a north-south orientation. Tighten the nuts you loosened and you are good to go.

 

[captnbob45]

The motor is tapped for 110v
For 220v operation, remove the bus bars from both poles.
Use the bus bars to jump the connection between the two studs closest to the rotor, in a north-south orientation. Tighten the nuts you loosened and you are good to go.

If you are talking about putting the bus bars between terminals I have circled that is the way I had it for 220V and it growls. That's why I have it tapped for 110V. It works fine on 110V. At least I can use the machine that way.

 

[markba633csi]

This is my best guess. You may have left the thermal protector out of the circuit.
I believe the power should be connected to the two "L" terminals for either voltage, and the two Lug wires going in to the motor can be swapped to reverse the direction if desired

 

[Ulma Doctor]

If you are talking about putting the bus bars between terminals I have circled that is the way I had it for 220V and it growls. That's why I have it tapped for 110V. It works fine on 110V. At least I can use the machine that way.

i was able to have a closer look on my laptop and gained some insight to detail i wasn't able to see on my phone,
as mark suggested, the Black Hot, needs to be placed on the upper most terminal.
terminals 2 and 3 are jumped with the buss bar, this is inconsistent with marks drawing, but is what the diagram shows
White will go on the lowest terminal
the bus bar will be removed from terminal 4 to lowest L terminal

 

[captnbob45]

This is my best guess. You may have left the thermal protector out of the circuit.
I believe the power should be connected to the two "L" terminals for either voltage, and the two Lug wires going in to the motor can be swapped to reverse the direction if desired
View attachment 510835

That works, thank you very much. I could not use the upper L terminal though. I get nothing there. I had to wire it to the terminal just below and to the left. Thanks again.

 

[captnbob45]

i was able to have a closer look on my laptop and gained some insight to detail i wasn't able to see on my phone,
as mark suggested, the Black Hot, needs to be placed on the upper most terminal.
terminals 2 and 3 are jumped with the buss bar
White will go on the lowest terminal

Thanks, I have it working now. But I could not use the upper L terminal. I had to use the terminal just below and to the left.
Thanks again..

 

[captnbob45]

Thanks everyone. I learned something from all this. I was not aware nor knew how to ohm out the terminals. Being able to ohm out the terminals I was able to save another motor I was going to scrap out because it has no marking on any of the wires.
Thanks again to everyone.