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Central machinery 12x36 wiring issues help needed
- Thread starter RSnell
- Start date
Ok, So I pulled the motor out and did some testing with my meter.Ground to terminals-all OL
u1 to u2 had resistance all others OL
v1 to v2 had resistance all others OL except v1 to w1 had resistance but this motor has No wires on w2 terminal. Any thoughts on that ?
u1 to u2 had resistance all others OL
v1 to v2 had resistance all others OL except v1 to w1 had resistance but this motor has No wires on w2 terminal. Any thoughts on that ?
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 12,604
My thoughts are this motor doesn't connect the way I/we thought.
If we can backtrack to the last good working connection we can figure this out
Edit: delete photo
If we can backtrack to the last good working connection we can figure this out
Edit: delete photo
Last edited:
What resistance readings are you getting? Do you have 3 different values of resistance? Please post the values you have for each reading
As far as resistance goes I got 3.0 ohms on u terminals and 2.4 on v terminals on 400 ohms. The first pic is the motor wiring on the mill ( it took this pic months ago when I changed the run cap )Yes it ran after i changed it.The only wires to the motor are u1 u2 w1 w2. Second pic is the motor currently on my bench ( no wires on w2 )Third pic is the motor cover wiring.
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Aha: No wonder- it's different than all the rest- the layers of onion are revealed
It IS a single voltage motor SO if you configure it like the CW showing there you should be able to test power it straight from the wall 220v, provided you have a fuse that is the right size and type. Then you should be able to take the straps off, and connect it to the machine per post #13
I think it's like this internally:
U1- U2 main winding
V1- W1 start winding
W1- V2 centrifugal start switch (normally closed)
W2 doesn't go into the motor
It IS a single voltage motor SO if you configure it like the CW showing there you should be able to test power it straight from the wall 220v, provided you have a fuse that is the right size and type. Then you should be able to take the straps off, and connect it to the machine per post #13
I think it's like this internally:
U1- U2 main winding
V1- W1 start winding
W1- V2 centrifugal start switch (normally closed)
W2 doesn't go into the motor
Last edited:
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2015
- Messages
- 12,604
I would bypass your inline fuse for now and let your house breaker trip if there's a problem
Plus you are probably getting tired of replacing fuses by now
Plus you are probably getting tired of replacing fuses by now
Yes,that makes sense. I wish I noticed the wiring in the cover earlier. Unfortunately I think that harbor freight motor took a little too much abuse as i wired it up as shown on the cover and it ran for about 1 second and blew the 10 amp fuse so I tried a 20 amp and it ran for 2 seconds. Maybe its time to go 3 phase with a VFD, but I'd still like to get another motor and use it the way it came since its never been used. Especially after all the help Mark and others have given me. Time to find a motor.
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