Central machinery 12x36 wiring issues help needed

markba633csi said:
Aha: No wonder- it's different than all the rest- the layers of onion are revealed
It IS a single voltage motor SO if you configure it like the CW showing there you should be able to test power it straight from the wall 220v, provided you have a fuse that is the right size and type. Then you should be able to take the straps off, and connect it to the machine per post #13
unless there is a short
I think it's like this internally:
U1- U2 main winding
V1- W1 start winding
W1- V2 centrifugal start switch (N.C.)
W2 doesn't go into the motor
Click to expand...
Indeed it is different, normally v1-v2 is the centrifugal switch but the resistance measurements showed that not to be the case
markba633csi said:
I would bypass your inline fuse for now and let your house breaker trip if there's a problem
Plus you are probably getting tired of replacing fuses by now
Click to expand...

Yes, the running current on that motor is 10.9 amps and the starting current is probably on the order of 50 amps.
One more possibility is the contacts on the centrifugal switch may have welded themselves together and are keeping the start cap connected.
Can you hear the switch click just before the motor coasts to a stop?
 
Agree with Robert- if the switch was welded the motor should still start and run for a few moments. Motor and cap will start to heat up. it's hard on the start cap and it might blow or bug juice might begin leaking out

:eek 2:
 
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Hey Mark, On post 38 you show how this motor is wired. To install it do I still use the wiring on post 13 or is it different now .Just double checking. Im getting gun shy blowing fuses. LOL
 
Yes post 13, same
I just made a slight edit- it's all good
 
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Quick question ? Do the start and run caps stay in their original location ? v2-w2 start cap and w1-w2 run cap. I'm thinking so because they match the motor internal wiring ? just trying to learn and understand this stuff.
 
Same as your cover diagram- Post #38 shows the internal connect- jumpers come off when connected to lathe
The internal switch is closed initially which puts both caps in parallel
When the motor spins up the switch opens, cutting out the start cap; the run cap stays in

You have two pairs (legs) :
Main leg U1, U2
Start leg V1, W2
When both pairs are getting the same phase of AC the motor spins in one direction
When one pair is swapped w/respect to the other the motor spins in the other direction
Your contactors in the control box do the swapping, they take the place of the jumper straps
 
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Great explanation, im starting to slowly get it. I'm used to dc voltage so it's hard to Rethink ac voltage. Ugh,Powered up fine. Put in forward and tripped the breaker but not the inline fuse to the motor. I'm sure the motor wiring is good now. Any ideas on ware to look now?I replaced all the contactors and rewired the for/rev switch a couple weeks ago.The for/rev switch wasn't even close to the manual
 
You might have a stuck/welded contactor from all the arcing and abuse- I'll post some tests- stay tuned
Show me a picture of the contactor box

I think I'll have you do some ohm checks- skip the post 19 test

OK do this: Disconnect machine from power- totally cold.
Disconnect motor- tape wires so they don't touch
Check with ohmmeter from contactor top to bottom on all poles
So L1 to T1 should be open
same with L2 to T2 should be open- and so forth
Check them all and see if any are stuck closed- you may be able to unstick it, if not- replace
 
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