Best protective oil / coating for chucks, tools, etc.

[woodchucker]

You sure it was not a vehicle of some form that used a rust preventative either from factory or as an aftermarket application?

It wasn't. I kind of remember it as some electronic thing.. but can't say for sure.
what I can say for sure, is not a vehicle. Our cars were always used and older.

 

[Mr Mike]

Welp. This was certainly entertaining! Thanks for all the banter and ideas. I ordered some T-9 and also picked up some Fluid Film at Home Depot today. I don't love the thought of using something that stinks, so I'll start with he T-9 and go from there. Thanks guys!

Did you pick up way oil for the ways...? don't put the T9 or fluid film on the ways.. its for exposed metal parts that don't slide against an opposing part... Hopefully you have the manual or can download it, there are a lot of rotating items like hand wheels, tailstock quill, lead screw and what not that need to be regularly maintained that can use machine or gear oil, but your manual may specify...

Also check that your way wipers are in decent condition, small metal debris can get lodged between your carriage and ways and cause damage, take some way oil and lightly soak news paper, clean shop towel or like and lay it over your ways when not in use to keep dirt, sand & dust off.

Take a look at this thread, talks a little about your lathe --> Emco Compact 8

Its a great little lathe to start on and kind of like most 9"x19" & 9"x20" on the market today. a word of wisdom - never store the chuck key on the chuck ever. find it a proper home away from the chuck.

Use HSS tooling if you can... not Carbide unless you have no other choice, pretty sure your lathe uses a belts get a spare. you can search google for 9"x20" Mini Lathe Mods and may find something of use.

Good luck with your lathe Sir...

 

[tq60]

Back in the day, we worked at an engine machine shop, bottom of barrel worker, polished crankshaft, and straightened same and camshafts.

We used "magic juice" on the cranks after polishing, and it worked very well.

Also, on anything with surface rust.

Mix in a spray bottle, whatever motor oil you have handy, with solvent or paint thinner.

Anywhere from 5 to 10 parts solvent to one part oil.

Spray to coat the item to be protected, the solvent evaporates and leaves an oil film.


Sent from my SM-G781V using Tapatalk

 

[Shiseiji]

sorry, but I don't share your hatred for 3 in 1. it's base is mineral oil. It's a decent light weight oil.

The funny thing about 3-in-1 is that it does have citronella oil in it. That's the distinct odor. And because it's organic, even though it's in a mineral oil, spindle oil actually, it will go rancid and as was mentioned about bar oil it gets tacky. But clean using 3-in-One and you start over. Wikipedia doesn't mention that, but does cover how it started as a bicycle lubricant. When I volunteered in a bike coop I did a fair amount of research on 3-in-One and verified the citronella. I was just curious, and didn't keep the references. One thing I do remember is his wife, who's name I just tried to find and failed, was a suffraget. They would travel to Europe and she would smuggle diaphragms back in the barrels of citronella oil.

 

[David2011]

Boeshield T9 keeps my cast iron woodworking machinery from rusting in the humidity of the Gulf Coast. I live just east of Houston among lots of creeks, bayous, rivers and Galveston Bay. I do keep the air conditioner turned on when I'm not in the shop to help with humidity but using Boeshield T9 allows me to set the temperature much higher than it would need to me without it.

I don't care for 3-in-1 oil. It gets gummy and the odor offends my sense of smell badly.

 

[rodm1]

In OH LPS3 or Fluid Film apply every evening after use.

 

[David2011]

Living 6 miles off of a saltwater bay I use Boeshield twice a year.

 

[Charles scozzari]

I think its a matter of opinion. I remember my farther always had a can of 3 in 1 around as I do and I love the oil. I wipe my machines down with it with a rag that I keep soaked with it at least once a week. Its got an easy drip top with a cap.I also use it on many other things around the house. It's got my vote anytime.

 

[rwdenney]

Boeshield T9 keeps my cast iron woodworking machinery from rusting in the humidity of the Gulf Coast. I live just east of Houston among lots of creeks, bayous, rivers and Galveston Bay…

Anahuac?

I used to have more problem with rust in Virginia than I did in Houston. Virginia is often cooler with more condensation, but can be almost as humid. My machines used to be in a garage attached to the house, so it was partially cooled by being partly underground and by sharing a wall and a ceiling with the air-conditioned house. Things in there would often be wet.

My new shop is floor-heated, which particularly solves the problem in Winter, and the shop is usually warmer than the dew point. Rust formation is now much more rare for me, and an occasional wipe with an oily rag is usually sufficient.

Rick “half my family is from Anahuac” Denney

 

[David2011]

Floor heating is a nice way to go in the appropriate climate. Best way there is to keep your feet warm.

I'm in Baytown, not far from Anahuac. Same climate. I only have to heat the shop for about 3 months and even then there are days when I need the air conditioner in December through April. Before I got the shop built I found that covering the cast iron woodworking tools with folded moving blankets helped a lot. Most of the short term damage here is from warm, humid Gulf air moving back in after a cold front passes. The cold metal condenses water out of the air onto the cast iron and it can get really wet, like standing water wet. Moving blankets slow the rate of temperature change so condensation is greatly diminished.