Band Saw Blades-Need your thoughts

I do stock a few different TPI blades. It seems in the past I’ve cut such a wide variety of different size materials itself been worth it. In the past few week’s I’ve cut 6” rounds and 4”square stock. I wouldn’t want to try either with a 10/14 blade
What blade would you use for a 5" piece of steel?
Is there a printed guide for suggested teeth count for a given diameter range, material??
 
Last edited:
What blade would you use for a 5" piece of steel?
In this case I would use a 4/6 variable tooth blade which is pushing the rule of thumb. The "optimum" number of teeth engaged is supposedly 6 to 10. However, I've never had a problem breaking blades when staying close to the guidelines. I like the variable tooth profile in that it reduces the harmonics and allows the saw to produce a smoother straighter cut. If I didn't have that one in stock and it was a one off, or small volume I would probably use the power hacksaw rather than purchase another blade.

I was buying 14" power hacksaw blades for about $2.00 a copy when they fell out of favor. I have well over 50 in stock from 3TPI to 18TPI. In this case the power hacksaw would be a bit slower than the bandsaw, but the fact that I wouldn't have to spend an additional $45.00 or take an hour out of the day to go pick it up would more than compensate for the additional cutting time.

For some reason I seem to have collected metal cutting saws over the years. I currently have a 350mm (14") Baileigh cold saw, an H175 Startrite horizontal/vertical bandsaw, a 10" Rockwell vertical bandsaw, a W66 Racine power hacksaw, and a Black & Decker 14" chop saw.

ON EDIT: I missed the question about a printed guide. I'm not sure if a table exists. This is something I learned way back when I was working in an experimental design shop. Ellis has a brief guide for blade selection on their website under the "Tooth Selection" (TPI) heading.

 

Attachments

  • DSC00021.JPG
    DSC00021.JPG
    437.6 KB · Views: 16
  • DSC00022.JPG
    DSC00022.JPG
    436.1 KB · Views: 14
  • DSCF8019A.jpg
    DSCF8019A.jpg
    338.4 KB · Views: 16
  • IMG_1414.jpg
    IMG_1414.jpg
    185 KB · Views: 15
Last edited:
Lenox on the band resaw, Morse on the little 4x6 because they are locally stocked.
 
In this case I would use a 4/6 variable tooth blade which is pushing the rule of thumb. The "optimum" number of teeth engaged is supposedly 6 to 10. However, I've never had a problem breaking blades when staying close to the guidelines. I like the variable tooth profile in that it reduces the harmonics and allows the saw to produce a smoother straighter cut. If I didn't have that one in stock and it was a one off, or small volume I would probably use the power hacksaw rather than purchase another blade.

I was buying 14" power hacksaw blades for about $2.00 a copy when they fell out of favor. I have well over 50 in stock from 3TPI to 18TPI. In this case the power hacksaw would be a bit slower than the bandsaw, but the fact that I wouldn't have to spend an additional $45.00 or take an hour out of the day to go pick it up would more than compensate for the additional cutting time.

For some reason I seem to have collected metal cutting saws over the years. I currently have a 350mm (14") Baileigh cold saw, an H175 Startrite horizontal/vertical bandsaw, a 10" Rockwell vertical bandsaw, a W66 Racine power hacksaw, and a Black & Decker 14" chop saw.

ON EDIT: I missed the question about a printed guide. I'm not sure if a table exists. This is something I learned way back when I was working in an experimental design shop. Ellis has a brief guide for blade selection on their website under the "Tooth Selection" (TPI) heading.

I'd say you have your bases covered :)
 
In this case I would use a 4/6 variable tooth blade which is pushing the rule of thumb. The "optimum" number of teeth engaged is supposedly 6 to 10. However, I've never had a problem breaking blades when staying close to the guidelines. I like the variable tooth profile in that it reduces the harmonics and allows the saw to produce a smoother straighter cut. If I didn't have that one in stock and it was a one off, or small volume I would probably use the power hacksaw rather than purchase another blade.

I was buying 14" power hacksaw blades for about $2.00 a copy when they fell out of favor. I have well over 50 in stock from 3TPI to 18TPI. In this case the power hacksaw would be a bit slower than the bandsaw, but the fact that I wouldn't have to spend an additional $45.00 or take an hour out of the day to go pick it up would more than compensate for the additional cutting time.

For some reason I seem to have collected metal cutting saws over the years. I currently have a 350mm (14") Baileigh cold saw, an H175 Startrite horizontal/vertical bandsaw, a 10" Rockwell vertical bandsaw, a W66 Racine power hacksaw, and a Black & Decker 14" chop saw.

ON EDIT: I missed the question about a printed guide. I'm not sure if a table exists. This is something I learned way back when I was working in an experimental design shop. Ellis has a brief guide for blade selection on their website under the "Tooth Selection" (TPI) heading.

That's an old lathe you got there
 

Attachments

  • lathe 2.jpg
    lathe 2.jpg
    27.4 KB · Views: 9
That's an old lathe you got there
The lathe is a 1916 Seneca Falls 9” K model. It was used by my wife’s grandfather for over 45 years in a vending machine company prototype shop.

When he retired it was given to him. When he passed it went to my father in law. When he passed 24 years ago I became the custodian. It’s still in great shape and I use it on a regular basis
 
Running coolant helps with SS.
Boy, no kidding
I have a coolant pump/tank on this saw but it makes such a mess I don't use it.
The piece of stock got so darn hot I could smell it let alone touch it.
Lessons learned!!
 
I received the new blade.
Wow, the old one was worn out. No broken teeth. I guess I'm doing something right.

I went through the break in procedure. This blade rocks.

These two pucks are parallel within 004". I'll take that.
 

Attachments

  • pucks.jpg
    pucks.jpg
    56.7 KB · Views: 10
I received the new blade.
Wow, the old one was worn out. No broken teeth. I guess I'm doing something right.

I went through the break in procedure. This blade rocks.

These two pucks are parallel within 004". I'll take that.
If you like the speed and accuracy of a well tuned bandsaw you’ll love a cold saw. They’re roughly twice as fast as a bandsaw and even more accurate. Most manufacturers advertise repeatability within .002”

Might be a nice addition to your shop.
 
Back
Top