Band Saw Blades-Need your thoughts

[toprecyler]

I need some advice and opinions here. My vertical bandsaw uses a 12'2" blade, 1/2", and I'm currently thinking about getting a carbide tipped blade. They're quite expensive, over $250. Should I do this or is this a waste? I cut all kinds of stuff from stainless to plastic and occasionally lop off a stick of wood. The saw (Jet VBS-900) has a very wide range of speeds, so I try to optimize that for the material.

It all depends on what you really cut that needs carbide. It may be the last blade you ever buy, or just a very expensive lesson.

My experience with a carbide blade didn’t quite go as I wanted. Back story, using a horizontal Jet bandsaw, 1” blades. Can cut up to 12” wide, I think. Saw used in a hydraulic shop cutting chrome rods, cast iron rounds, aluminum round stock, and steel tubing.

Occasionally I have to cut induction harden chrome rod. I usually have to machine or grind thru the harden chrome layer to cut with normal blades.

We tried a carbide tooth blade at around $250-300. Currently we only put it on when we actually have to cut a induction hard piece. Due to an operator error, as happens most of the time, we chipped several teeth. It still cuts fairly well, except for a couple spots with missing teeth. We just slow the hydraulic feed down slower when using.

Personally, I can’t justify the amount of cuts we got from this blade for the cost.

Your situation may be different. Especially since you will be the one operator and having paid for the blade yourself, you may take better care of it, than typical employees who just say, this is broke, I do not know why, get me a new one.


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[projectnut]

I need some advice and opinions here. My vertical bandsaw uses a 12'2" blade, 1/2", and I'm currently thinking about getting a carbide tipped blade. They're quite expensive, over $250. Should I do this or is this a waste? I cut all kinds of stuff from stainless to plastic and occasionally lop off a stick of wood. The saw (Jet VBS-900) has a very wide range of speeds, so I try to optimize that for the material.

My personal opinion is its massive overkill. I've been working in either industrial machine shops or in my own personal shop for close to 40 years. In all those years I've never needed a carbide tipped blade on any saw. We used to cut 6" Inconel rounds on a power hacksaw with a Starrett red stripe blade. Again, in my opinion the best all-around bandsaw blades are the bimetal variable pitch with the proper TPI for the size of the material being cut. I use bimetal blades to cut everything from 316 stainless to 4140, to aluminum and plastics. They cost around $42.00 a copy and last 2 to 3 years depending on frequency of use.

In the past I've always followed fairly closely the TPI rule of thumb for the material being cut. Just recently I had what I thought was a well-worn 10/14 tpi blade on my horizontal saw. I thought it was about time for a change, so I "abused" it by cutting some 8 1/2" plate with it. I was a bit surprised as to how well it worked, but I was sure I finished it off. Later in the week I decided I need to make a few more cuts on the same material so I fixtured it up in the same saw with the same blade. It still worked fine. Maybe I'm just cheap, frugal, but I can't see putting that kind of money in a bandsaw blade when the bimetal blades do anything I need them to do for years on end, at less than 20% of the cost.

 

[woodchucker]

I'm very satisfied with my 400 sq. ft shop.
It's got great lighting, has HVAC, it's my year round Disneyland.

It looked bigger than 400sq, I guess some of the pics have made it look much bigger. You with the grandkids and stuff.
It's not the size, it's what you do with it.

 

[projectnut]

It looked bigger than 400sq, I guess some of the pics have made it look much bigger. You with the grandkids and stuff.
It's not the size, it's what you do with it.

We are still talking about the shop, right?